I will be eventually putting up a thatchweave cedar roof on the front of my house, however since such a roof involves approximately 4 times the number of shingles as a normal roof and will also require the steam bending of thousands of shingles to fit the various radius of the rolled edges I fully expect it to take me at least one full summer to do..
Accordingly I would like to put up some basic roofing material for the year or two it will take me to get around to doing such a complicated roof.
I’ve lived with tarps and found them totally unsatisfactory so now I want to at least keep the rain out.
My first thought was the use of rolled roofing, but with the compound curves involved that simply won’t work.. (the front of the house will be cone shaped with a curved edge) Accordingly I want to buy the least expensive three tab shingle and slap it in place.. (the valleys are all heavy copper which I’ll put in place and will remain after I remove the aspault shingles)
Since it needs only last a couple of years what corners can be cut? Where are the potential savings and where should I not cut corners?
Replies
Man if roll roofing won't work just pick up whatever's on special at the big box nearest to you and staple the buggers down over the 15#. Don't bother with a doubled starter course or rake course. Just bang em down.
Wait till it rains and see if/where it leaks. If it does go up with a bucket of pitch and fix it....
If your climate and the pitch of the roof indicates you'll have ice damming problems, you might want to invest in a couple of rolls of stick-down ice-n-snow membrane. Of course, if roll roofing won't conform to the curved cone, you might have problems getting the membrane down smoothly, too. Can't tell from here....
Can't remember what the name is for a curved cone. Frustrum of an egg...? CRS....
Dinosaur
A day may come when the courage of men fails,when we forsake our friends and break all bonds of fellowship...
But it is not this day.
I'd say look at the synthetic underlayments like Titanium UDL or other similar (Roofguard II may be the other similar product). They are 4 to 5 feet wide, roll like 10 mill plastic, have textured surfaces for traction while walking on them, and they don't degrade much for surprisingly long spans of time. 2 Years may be pushing it, but since it is just temp - and since it is actually an underlayment - you can just run a new roll over the old if it starts to get shaggy. When it comes time to do your roof right, you could just use whats there or... roll another layer on. Since each layer is much thinner that felt, multiple layers will build up very little.
But you would have to do the peel & stick membranes first before the underlayment... I suppose it could be done later, but it would be more of a pain.
Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA
Also a CRX fanatic!
spray on truck bed liner..rhino-liner comes to mind. Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Time, time, time look what's become of us..Time is all we have, spend it wisely with fervor..dance for no reason, love with out plans and live without worries..we all can.
xxPaulCPxx
Sorry peel and stick adhesive type underlayment won't work!
It won't let the multiple layers of shingles dry out underneath and then they will quickly rot.. (sort of the same problem if you just nail shingles over plywood)
The roof is skip sheathed to faciitate that drying out..
Oops! Sorry, I was thinking you were going from a a bare deck.Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA
Also a CRX fanatic!
Since it's skip-sheathed, you might look into giving the layout to an awning maker...they can put together a durable, watertight cover that's easy to install and remove. Better than tarps and could come in handy during your lengthy shingling project.
BTW, in your self-described pricy neighborhood, how much time do you have left before you suffer the aggravation of an anonomous letter from an impatient neighbor (as in another current thread)? :-)
Wormdrive,
Most of my neighbors see my regular progress and look at the dramatic improvement over their own houses and are very friendly and positive.. the one nieghbor is, has been, and always will be a complainer. Once I'm finished no doubt there will be several complaints about everything and whatever!
Regarding the use of an awning as a tarp I honestly hadn't considered that, because it smacks of a tarp I'd be worried. Since I got a lot of rain that was wind blown under the edge of the tarps in spite of nailing the edges down with strapping..
I was just teasing you about the length of your project.
I was thinking later about this awning deal....there's a couple places out here that build Yurts that are covered with a rubberized canvas, like awnings.....and you might check with a local freighthauler and see if they've got any old truck tarps available....sometimes you can get a used one pretty cheap and they're BIG!
Those tarps are tough as nails and a competent canvas or awning guy could make whatever you need out of one of them....with no leaks.
I've seen guys around here doing cedar reroofs using Titanium UDL over the split sheathing for dry-in. I use it under copper and I know it will last a long time exposed, but whether or not it will still breathe under cedar is questionable.
Check this out:
http://www.interwrap.com/titanium/
Hey Mister Sushi, you forgot to cook my fish.
"Am I dead or alive? What's this? Linoleum? I must be in hell." -The Salton Sea
Greencu,
I'm afraid we have several similar type products around here and if you nail cedar onto those products the bottom of the cedar remains damp long after the rains stops. That's why roofs done with cedar will rot out much faster than they should.. 20 years is about it! and frankly I don't want to be reroofing again when I'm 76
I could use a cedar breather underlayment over that if I were only putting a single layer of shakes up. (in fact that's what I've done over the back half of the house).. but with the four and five layers that a thatchweave roof has a cedar breather wouldn't work. that's why the skip sheathing..
Yeah, that's my take on it also. What we've done from time to time is cover the split sheathing with 30 lb felt. As we work up we cut the felt out between the 1xs. When we dry in at night we slip a piece of felt over the cedar under the upper felt. I'm suggesting titanium because I know it will last a long time.
Keep us informed with some pictures. I've always wanted to do a cedar thatch. I bid a cedar thatch job a couple of years ago for a customer that said she wanted it done right or not at all. About a month later she had someone putting the 3rd layer of asphalt shingles over the original thatch. I bid it a little low, too.Hey Mister Sushi, you forgot to cook my fish.
"Am I dead or alive? What's this? Linoleum? I must be in hell." -The Salton Sea
Just thinking out loud here, but what about the shrink wrap that they cover boats with?
Pricey? might not breath? quick?
Here's a link from a web search http://www.americanshrinkwrap.com/photopage.htm
Mike
It's O.k. to think out of the box, Just don't walk off of the plank!