Hi All,
I did a search here on the topic and eventually found my way to a back issue of FWW. The article describes using an oil finish (Watco Danish) to avoid blotchy finish. This is exactly the finish that I applied but still wound up with a somewhat blotchy finish after sanding with a ROS using 60, 80, 100, 120, 150, 180 and 220 grit.
There are darker “grimy” looking spots near some of the knots. Looks like the blotches that you get when staining pine. Material is 5/4 x 8 cherry, used for a cap/counter on a half-wall. Finish will get high traffic but client isn’t interested in a high gloss finish.
I assumed that since I was doing a penetrating oil finish, using a sealer wasn’t a good idea. I’m prepared to sand this off and start over. Any thoughts on how to avoid the blotchyness?
Thanks
Replies
In this thread, http://forums.prospero.com/tp-breaktime/messages?msg=71249.1 , I show my shop cabs made out of cherry and initially stained with Watco Fruitwood.
The cabinet guy that made them did some light sanding, but I didn't. The wood was smooth enough from the start without having to play the grit game. So's I just put the Watco on and rubbed it in. Waited a half hour and reflooded the surface for another 20 minutes before wiping off, or rather, rubbing off.
After a coupla days, some blotchiness did appear, but I ignored it and put on two coats of 2lb nonwaxed amber shellac. After, the blotchiness didn't appear to be so bad.
Then I sprayed 5 - 6 coats of Oxford's Ultima Spray Lacquer (waterbased), scrapeing with a utility knife blade in between, not sanding.
How's the blotches look to you now?
I want to see some updated pics of that shop, you know, full of tools and projects and stuff. How is the space working for you?
I'll be puting on the last coat of clear epoxy on the floor today or tomorrow.
You have to use a sealer to avoid blotching. I use Benite from Daly's (don't know if Daly's is local or not). It's an oil-based sealer but works fine with Ultima lacquer.
I wondered about using a sealer. Wouldn't that preclude the use of a penetrating oil finish?
I just finished some cherry plywood (which is prone to blotchiness). Flood the surface with wood conditioner (minwax or others) and apply the stain within 15-30 minutes. This will cure most but not all of the blotchiness. Consider using Waterlox Original (even over the Watco) if you're finishing using a brush or rag -- you won't get much protection from the Watco by itself. The amber color of the Waterlox will help hide the residual blotchiness.
As with all finishes, test them on a scrap first.
Billy
Edited 2/27/2007 6:11 pm ET by Billy
Part of your problem may be in the sanding. I'll probably get a boatload from the sanding police, but I usually stop at 150. I've found that over sanding cherry, especially sanding in one place too long seems to burnish the wood, and guarantees a splotchy finish. I'd re-sand with power, then hand sand with the grain...I've had great luck with Watco and cherry. "But to be honest some folks here have been pushing the envelope quite a bit with their unnecessary use if swear words. They just put a character in to replace a letter. But everyone knows what they're saying." Sancho
I like your thought. My success with cherry used a utility knife blade as a scraper and no sandpaper. That too, should close the pores rather than plug them with fine stainable dust.