Id like to see a recommended construction method for pouring a new chimney crown on top of a two and a half story story roof. The chimney measures 36 x 36, and has double flues on one end. The internet has little information in this area.
Thanks
Id like to see a recommended construction method for pouring a new chimney crown on top of a two and a half story story roof. The chimney measures 36 x 36, and has double flues on one end. The internet has little information in this area.
Thanks
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Replies
What do you need to know exactly?
The only critical detail is leaving some expansion room
around the flues.
This doesn't answer your question exactly, but you might be better served with a metal cover. Keeps the elements out of the flue and off the wash (the wash always cracks - it's just a matter of how long) and keeps the varmints out.
Here's a couple ready to install:
View Image
The other pic is one we installed last week - this chimney has leaked since it was built. It's been reflashed several times and had the wash replaced several times. We had record rainfall yesterday and the inside is dry as a bone for the first time in many years.
Can't get the other picture to attach for some reason.
http://grantlogan.net/
But you all knew that. I detailed it extensively in my blog.
What do you mean by "wash" ?
Cap?
I'm guessing Cap. If so he'll still need a properly
poured Cap or crown. Those are nice units by the way, did you make them?
Or is there a link you could give? One note about metal spark arresters though. They tend to
cool faster and creosote build up can be a problem.
Well not necessarily a problem but a mess.
What do you mean by "wash" ?
That's what I've always heard the concrete or mortar surface at the top of the chimney around the flue liners called. Also have heard it called a crown.
http://www.doityourself.com/stry/waterdamagechimney
To me a "cap" is what I posted a picture of.
One note about metal spark arresters though. They tend to cool faster and creosote build up can be a problem.
What other type spark arresters are available?
Often, if the creosote is building up on the spark arrester, the fire is choked down too much or a wood burning stove is being run thru too large of a flue.
I did make those caps -thank you.
http://grantlogan.net/
But you all knew that. I detailed it extensively in my blog.
I somehow missed your other pic.
Thanks for the follow up. I had never heard it called a wash, A
regional thing ?
As far as I know the only other option is no spark arrestor.
To me it depends on what your running through the flue.
With a wood stove or (Frequently used) fireplace the heat source
will keep the moisture out. While a furnace, hot water heater etc.
need some sort of water cap. There are a number of reasons you can get creosote (I think
it safe to say you already know them). In practice the beginning and
end of the firing cycle are unavoidable. In short it is a common
enough occurrence that I've been asked to take them off more then once. But any way I like your method for avoiding a concrete cap. I
guess I'd like to overhang a little more (Tradition I guess).Yet
all in all an attractive solution to an old problem.
from the looks of the top that is one nice chimney. I really like well done masonry. The cap you put on looks like it belongs there. It has nice low and long lines and the bevels help ground it. Well done!
Copperfield sells forms to set in place for the pour -- giving you a crown effect several inches beyond the bricks. I'm not sure this is what you meant however.
This looks interesting as well:
http://www.hartshearth.com/productcart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=4637http://grantlogan.net/
But you all knew that. I detailed it extensively in my blog.
If you mean a poured concrete cap to replace the thin mortar cap most masons use to top off the chimney, there was an article a few years back in FHB on doing that. The gist is, make a form out of 2x4's, lay in some concrete, lay in some metal fabric, top off with more concrete with a bit of a slope.
Thnaks Mike,,,,,,,,,,,,The form looks like the best way to go, if it's strong enough to hold the concrete. I'll probably make my own out of something more sturdy though.