Does anyone have a picture of a properly flashed chimney that is located on an outside wall at the eves and that is located in a roof valley? A normal saddle would not work in this situation because you have 2 slopes coming into the chimney on different sides. I am assuming that I would have to build a saddle that is offset and ridges out from the roof valley and then slopes down the back of the chimney and also down the side?
Dan
“Life is what happens when you are making other plans.” – John Lennon
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Sorry.
There is no way to properly flash a chimney in a valley. It is never correct to design a house in shuch a way that it is placed there.
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How about a cricket, long enough to reach uphill and divide the main valley into two that fork and then bridge the chimney?
C'mon Pif, fire up your software and show us how.
What you are talking about is essentially building a dormer behind the chimney. To keep debruis and backed up water and ice from creating the leaks, you need ti high enough that it looks like a fgoony bird moved into town. you are also dealiing with the effects of the force created with cross flow, when one side of a valley gathers more water than another due to it collecting from a larger or steeper roof. That cross wash will flip itself up under the metal.A good copper man with lots of bituthene and knowledge of sldering and tinning might have a chance if the owner wanted top payu for several days of his time. It's not much more expensive to move the chimney and have it right. i'm not this black and white about many things, but this is a hard and fast one. Back in my wage earning days, the companies had to try repairs and rebuilds on these monstrosities several times. I saw and heard enough to swear I would not ever take one on. I have walked away from several...
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He's out in Winnemucca, NV, average total winter snowfall under 25 inches. If he could move his chimney, he might not be asking how to deal with this.
I was hoping you would doodle us up something to show us how to cricket above and split the valley. This one's from the copper.org site, but shows a plain cricket.
View Image
Sorry, if I doodled up a sketch, it would be to demonstrate3 why it won't work with little arows showing direction of water flo w forces etc.Since I have a negative attitude on this one, I'd probably better shut up and let you guys work it out.
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Just because you don't have the knowledge and skill set to do that job,don't just assume the rest of us can't do it.
obviously it would be better to have a different placement,but a competent slate and metal man like myself or others would rise to the challenge of making sure it was watertight when completed.
Metal ,solder,counterflashing-yes it's a little labor intensive,but not as bad as tearing down and rebuilding another chimney..
Besides it low on the roof adjacent to an end wall,easy access to do the work.
ahem..... it would be relatively simple if the diagonal axis of the chimney is on the same axis as the valley
and...even if the chimney is normal to the valley.. i could easily design a cricket that would solve the problem..
my only question would be... is the chimney brick or stone ?
if it's stone, i would insist on a thru flashMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
You are a brave man. Even on a diagonal cross axis one.
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Piffen is correct, but if the chimney is already there...
I'm not sure I follow you, a pic would be helpful.
Sounds like the chimney is at the end of the valley, straddling it????
Run a "ridge" from the chimney straight over to the valley, then sheath the slopes on both sides, step and counter flash. A double cricket, more or less.
But maybe I'm not understanding the situation.
I'd post a drawing, but it wouldn't be helpful.
Rich Beckman
Another day, another tool.
The chimney is already in place, has been since 1940 something. It is pretty much how Rich is describing it. I will try and get a picture of it. It seems like I am on the right path to figuring out how to flash it the best way possible. Thanks for all the input so far.
Dan"Life is what happens when you are making other plans." - John Lennon
Find your local sheet metal man to fabricate a custom piece on site to do what you need and then have him solder it up properly.
If it already exists then it can be made leakproof,even though one should never place a chimney there.
The reason it should not be put there uis simply because it cannot be made leakproof. You can move the leak. You can make it leak less, but you will always have a leak
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If this is what you are talking about, I have to agree that proper construction and flashing is not impossible, but very difficult. The last reroof on this has held, but the previous attempts were a problem. Here in the north you have to think both rain water volume coming down that valley/roof, and gradual snow melt packing high up the chimney.
You'll see they installed a cricket on the long side. This has a tall counter flashing over the existing flashing. The low end you can see a cut in counter flash. Up high on the chimney is another cricket with tall counter flash. The framing up on the top left of the chimney is a combo hip and valley attempting to take the water coming from above and diverting it around the chimney. Another problem area before the last reroof was on the right side of the chimney. There was never any cut un flashing, just roof goop. Rotted the soffit over the years.
I bet Hazlett and Greencu have run into this scenario.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Last time I ran into a chimney in the center of a valley, we got rid of it. In this case it served no purpose (was added when central heat was installed in the house originally and the heating system had been up graded to a gas system vented thru the wall).
Snow country or not would affect how tall I'd make it, but as said before, a cricket's the answer. Without a sketch or picture it's impossible to give any further advise, but it can be done.
I agree with Piff that whoever designs stuff like this ought to be held financially responsible for keeping it weather tight for the life of the house. I've got a waste vent poking thru the roof about 6" off the center of a valley on my house.
edit: Anybody heard from Hazelet lately?
STOP, DROP, ..............ROCK 'N' ROLL
Edited 4/28/2005 2:04 pm ET by greencu
this isn't exactly what you are looking for, but it sure is entertaining
carpenter in transition
Thats almost what has been asked about-not quite in the valley.
I'm sure that one didn't leak-metal up high then counter flashed.Left hand side of lower pan should have been soldered to the tapered valley sheet.
Maybe that one could be moved since it's already down.
Maybe that one could be moved since it's already down.
Nope. Already back up again.
According to the owner, the house was built 107 years ago. Do you think the flashing is original ?
carpenter in transition
I think the valleys and chimney flashing have been redone,maybe around the midway point.
Thats just a guess.Where is this place located-looks like good old Maine slate to me.
Easton, PA
not so good Slatington slate
carpenter in transition
Tim,I just looked again at your pictures.You are right the bulk of the roof is soft slate,but doesn't the color and soundness look better around the chimney over to the right hand dormer?
Are you a slater too?
you are correct, the triangle 10 feet up from the bottom had been replaced by the current owner at some time. he has owned the property for over 25 years.
no, not a slater, a carpenter that does all types of repair work. variety keeps me sane.
carpenter in transition