Replies

1. 
   Sphere | Sep 23, 2004 03:40am | #1

   OK, hang on here..I am ONE of the folks here who have a log crib.

   This is MY method, there are many.

   I scribe /saw/ whittle 2'' EXTRUDED foam to fit the opening, "caulking" it in with canned foam. Tack up " expanded metal lath" (like for stucco)  UNDER the lower edge of the UPPER log, and inset on the TOP edge of the one below it.

   Now the actual weather shield can be "PERMA-Chink" ====$$$$$$$$$$$$$, or a home made daubing of portland cement and cellulose fiber..I am not at that stage to hand out a recipe, and won't be at it till spring likely..

   Humidifing the logs? NO WAY..you want them dry..bugs like moist, so does mildew/mold..rot.

   DRY...as dry as they will get. Mine are 150+ or 175 yrs old..they are like concrete..I dig up the link for yer perusal (caution, due to mature subject matter, some viewers may be offended)..LOL

   Damm, can't navigate to the link..ok I'll add it in an edit.. 

   http://forums.taunton.com/tp-breaktime/messages/?msg=38593.216

    

   Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

   Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations. 

   
   

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   Edited 9/22/2004 8:42 pm ET by SPHERE

   
   

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   Edited 9/22/2004 8:43 pm ET by SPHERE

2. 
   efix2 | Sep 23, 2004 05:31am | #2

   Here we go....
   I'm the other guy that lives in a logpile he built himself! (OK - I 'cheated' and bought a kit but it's a lot of fun to build.)
   The system I have has worked well for 16 years and goes like this:
   - Each log is 6" deep (high).
   - Each log has a tongue on top and a groove on the bottom.
   - In between is put double-sided foam tape. This stuff comes off the roll at 1/4" and slowly expands to up to 3/4".  Therefore when the logs shrink and gaps occur - the foam fills it.
   - Butt joints are handled with the tape and also hardboard splines.
   - I have no chinking or caulking of any kind anywhere.

   Now - I'm assuming you have not started building yet and must ask "Why do you want to chink?"  I would be very nervous doing so.  Reason being is that the logs constantly move (which I think is cool) and hard chinking may either break or a gap will ensue.  Our forefathers used chinking because they did not have an easy way to mill the logs in the field and had to re-chink periodically.

   On the other hand, if you are doing an accent type interior wall (say behind a bar) then I would think chinking is OK as the wall will not move.

   On the subject of cracking:  My logs were cut live in NC and were on-site in CT in 2 weeks.  All were quite smooth.  Today I have many cracks (which I like) but none of them go past the center of the log, no drafts.  Take a look at a dried log to see what I mean.

   So - My point is that you do not have to use chinkng if you don't want to - there are other ways.  If you like the look of chinking - then by all means do so.

   When I tell people I live in a log house (not a cabin - dammit!) I usually get 2 questions:
   "What kind of insulation do you have?"

   A: none, it's wood.
   "Did you use horse manure and old socks for chinking?"

   A: Uhh, no
   LOL

   I love my log house, learned a lot building it and would be happy to offer advice....

   Egon

3. 
   pyroman | Sep 23, 2004 07:09am | #3

   There are others who will disagree with me but if I were you I would stay away from chinking of any kind. I would not buy a house with chinking, nor would I build one with chinking. It sure looks old timey, but the maintenance of it will give you nightmares and make you curse to high heaven. It stains very easily which over time is one of its downfalls.

   For years I've been planning on building my log home. Been quite educated on them. I have interviewed a good many number of people who own log homes. In fact I recently went to TN with the intent of buying a log home and looked at a number of them....some were chinked and displayed noticable staining on some.

   Also consider that you must treat your logs externally every couple of years. In order to not stain your chinking you'll have to mask off a ton of chinking so you can retreat the logs. Unless you're a glutton for punishment, I'd stay away from chinking.

   Not all chinking is bad, and not all chinking stains or fails in any way. In a number of cases its' been just fine, but overall it's quite poor and as another pointed out Perma chink (use nothing else) is extremey pricey.

4. 
   CapnMac | Sep 23, 2004 06:38pm | #4

   I have to agree with Pyrotech, while the rustic (or "true") log construction has its place, it also has drawbacks.

   To "do" chinking properly, you are supposed to do both the interior and the exterior sides of the walls.  Ok, no biggie.  That is, until you get to a built-up wall, with plywood on let-in studs.  Like in the kitchen or bathroom.  You wind up with two choices, neither very good.  Skip the interior chinking, or install it, never to be seen or maintained ever again.

   The only way around that is to avoid kitchen & bath design using an exterior wall that way--often easier said than done.

   This is where the fully-milled, stacked with splines "modern" method come into its own.  Of course, it also lacks that charm, too, being oh so uniform.  (And you have to be very carefull with the building proportions, as the "logs" are skinnier on average.) 

   Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)