A client of mine has a commercial building with this hole in it. He’s asked me to repair it. Not my area of expertise but I’d like to help him out. Any advice/ direction would be greatly appreciated!
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I'd start with
Start with a dry back mortar. Use it to fill in most of the void. Let it cure for a bit until it is at least hard set.
Then do a skim coat with a slightly wetter grout/concrete patch with a bit of latex, and extra portland cement added that you can trowel to a smooth surface. The idea is to keep this thin so you don't have shrinkage cracks.
Why not star with filling the inside with spray foam, then finish the outside as you described?
That's not a hole, it's an overhead door!
oops ;)
I think the spray foam would need a lot of it plus time to cure up, meanwhile he is bloicking the door passage with a ladder and hioping nobody driving in and out knocks him off his keister.
I would use that general idea though, and find some old faom like from a seat cushion to stuff in there as backing, or wad up some newspaper to fill the void.
.I would use some bonding agent or white glue to prep the surfaces first, then start mixing the mud. Then climb up with a fairly dry mix and have at it.
Might or might noty need a top finish coat
The key to a patch on masonry
is to wet down the area you are going to be patching b/4 you pack your morter in there.
Otherwise the moisture will be quickly sucked out of the patch and you will surely get cracks around that hole-no bond. Wet it down prior misting with a hand held bottle type pump sprayer. Slather on the bonding agent, mix the morter and have at it.
If you want a long lasting job, tape visqueen on both sides to keep the patch wet-be better to hang a towell and keep that wet, but that won't happen.
no?
Misting can't hurt, but with bonding agent, no need IMO. The PVA acts as a barrier to the loss of moisture from the patchingmud
I would tapcon a piece of plywood completely covering the hole on one side, make sure you have blocked the core below so the concrete won't just fall down there (broken pieces of block are the usual thing). Then cover about half the hole on the other side and shovel in bag mix concrete mixed pretty stiff, (4 slump or less). I use a big cast alumium garden trowel for this. You should be able to get it pretty full this way. You can even cover half of the hole you have left and pack in some more. Then shove in more mud and cover the last part all at once. You want it mounded up in the core above some.
After you have your covers tap conned in well, tap on them with a hammer to consolidate the cream on the forms and bring down that excess you mounded up in the hole above.
Let that set up until it is set but still green, a few hours to all day depending on how hot it is.
Remove the forms and hard trowel the form marks off. If you got that last "pack and cover" thing done right you are finished. Otherwise you might have to skim coat it with a parge./stucco/type S sort of thing
8x8" piece of steel and 4
8x8" piece of steel and 4 tapcons. Paint all sides with a good primer before you put it up, and then paint the steel to match the block.
You've had a variety of responses which to me can be sorted into two categories: 1) insulative 2) structurally sound.
In my climate I'd go with insulative, but your situation may be different. Either way I hope it works for you.