The home I just purchased has hardwood floors through-out, and after two moppings they are still filthy. There seems to be a thick film left behind from years of being cleaned with the wrong product, perhaps a waxy residue. The finish appears to be an oil based polyurethane. I am wondering what might be the best cleaning product to restore these floors, I believe I don’t need to go to length of renting a buffer and that I just need the right cleaning product.
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try each of two solutions in a smallspot first -
one would be a lot of elbow grease and some turpentine on a rag
The other would be white vinegar 50/50 in water
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Thanks, I did try paint thinner in a small test area and it seemed to do the job, I just haven't figured out how best to apply it to 1.500 S.F.
Down on your kneesopen windows firstrags and rubber glovesgallon of Turpswet the ragrub a dub dubTurpentine soaked rags need to be either placed in a metal can with tight lid outdoors or hung out to dry without being foled. One of those spontaneious combustion things. Wadding up contains heat that can build up.
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
another that some folks swear by is a solutiuon of ammonia and watrer.
I wouldn't know what mix rate. I get a reaction to it and leave the building
Welcome to the
Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
where ...
Excellence is its own reward!
yur not suppose to drink it..
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!<!----><!---->
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
That is from whiffing it - asthma constricts my wheezer and I get to gasping for air. You could never get it close enough to my lips to swallow a drop.Back to paying bills now...
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
>>> Back to paying bills now...
what a fun-loving guy.
let's make it really fun fill evening for Piff and send him ours to pay too..
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!<!----><!---->
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
... just to show him how good friends we all are ;>)
that's us..
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!<!----><!---->
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
I remember reading a book from Don Aslett, the expert on cleaning everything, that Neutral cleaner is the best for hardwood.
Not sure if it will remove all the residue but it works perfectly on my hardwood.
Jon
Russian saying
I have allways had good results with 'Murphy's Oil Soap' Elbow grease required.
Chuck S
live, work, build, ...better with wood
DO NOT use ammonia-containing products on oak, unless you like black marks anywhere the finish is scratched or damaged! Other woods may be OK, but oak and ammonia is a definite no-no combination.
There are plenty of wax-stripping products out there. Find one and apply. No need for paint thinner. Then clean with a product which has "leaves no sticky residue" on the label- no wax in those.
>>> DO NOT use ammonia-containing products on oak
Very true, not on your floor. This technique is intentionally used to darken oak in Arts & Crafts styled furniture.
I found a product at HD called Krud Kutter. It works very well. Look for it in the paint dept.