Clear coating for interior fir treads
I’m getting ready to sand and clear coat some residential interior fir stair treads and pine risers. I’ve been told industrial grade polyurethane might be the best. I’m wondering if a clear epoxy might hold up better. I know the wood is soft but want to give the clear coat a try. Any advice?
Replies
I would use whatever you are comfortable using on any wood floor. I like water based finishes like Mega or EZ Transition. They are quite forgiving and easy to re-apply. I can't say I have noticed that any finish appreciably strengthens the fir against dents. Like you say, it's a soft wood.
I find the water based poly to hard, it doesn't seem to take pressure too well and flakes off, for floors I'll stick to oil based ..
It'd be nice if you could thin down the first coat or two of whatever you use so it penetrates and hardens within the wood itself. Maybe even the epoxy thinnned a bit. I have used Minwax wood hardener for similar purposes, but have read (in the last issue of "The Journal of Light Construction," I think) that "superglue" does the same thing.
In the past I've noticed how using a brush that has been just cleaned really causes urethane to penetrate... didn't think about doing that here... thank you for the advice.
Builderat9000feet,
You need to realize something.. paint no matter what kind will sooner or later need to be repaired.
Why not select a hard durable finish that is easy to repair? Polyurethane are soft.. epoxy tends to be brittle.. Oil finishes don't last.
I selected the oldest and safest finish of them all.
Shellac..
It's harder and tougher than those other finishes.. plus goes on really easy.
It's extremely safe to apply, you've been eating shellac all of your life, most candy and nearly all pills are coated with shellac..
Shellac's first coat dries in 15 minutes. you can put as many or as few coats on as you'd like.. When the time comes to repair shellac.. you simply dampen it with denatured alcohol and it wipes right off.. no need for sanding! (or the dust that accompanies it.
By the way most myths about shellac aren't true.. you can spill water on it without disaster.. beer and wine as well. even mixed drinks.. just wipe them up in a reasonable period of time..
Earlier there have been several posts from people dealing with 80 year old shellac finishes so shellac can be extremely durable.. Plus it's affordable, Biodegradable, and renewable..
I have a technique that even the most clutzy painter in the world winds up with a perfect finish. It's so simple it's impossible to make a mistake..
Just ask I give you complete details.