I was talking with a frirend last night about houses, and what we’d do if we built another one. And one of the things that came up was closet lights.
I’ve heard that they make switches for closets that come on automatically whenever you open a door. I’m under the impression that they’re morticed into the hinge side of the door jamb so that they’re triggered when the door is opened.
But I have no idea what they’re called, or if they’re reliable. They sound like agreat idea to me. But I wouldn’t want to install anything that’s going to be a hassle down the road.
Anybody try these things before?
I wish all the mean people, if you want to be mean to each other, just buy a country together and blow each other up. Then we’d have no terrorists left. [Tara Reid]
Replies
Had one in my old house, it was great. Four years now in the one we built ourselves and some times I still expect the light to come on when the door opens. It was just a push button in the jamb. Never had a problem with it. I imagine a elec supply house could get one.
Mike
We do them all the time. In my market (FLA) HO's love stuff like that they can show off to friends. We call them jamb switches and they are stocked at the local supply houses. They are much more time consuming to install and the trim carp. and electrician are usually both on the job for it. Another cool thing we have been doing is installing a motion detector switch at the entry to the master bath and a path of stair riser lights in the baseboard leading to the toilet and an L.E.D. in a single gang box shining on the toilet bowl. Who wants to turn on all the lights for that 3 am pee.......
Good Luck
Any pics of this setup?
They are called door jamb switches.
http://www.twacomm.com/Catalog/Model_1865.htm
The are basically refigerator swiches mounted in box. A typical refigerator might get 10 times the usage of a closet door.
http://assets.twacomm.com/assets/pdf/19155.pdf
Here is a company that uses low voltages switches and you can just drill a hole to mount the switch.
http://www.betterswitch.com/
For walk in closets I suspect that a lot are going to occupancy sensors.
Thanks for the info Bill. Do these switcheds last a long time? Looks like they're about $40 each, and they wuld be a pain to replace. So I wouldn't want o put them in unless they were reliable.
What upsets me is not that you lied to me, but that from now on I can no longer believe you. [Nietzsche]
I only been in one home (to do some work) that has had them it is about 20 years old and seemed to work OK.But as I said they are gbasically refigerator switches and should have a good life.But they are as easy to replace as any switch. They have a box and wired in just like a regualr switch.And I think that they are availble much cheaper. That was the first site that showed with with a catalog sheet. Other ranged from $12-20.
I didn't realize that they could be changed that easaily. I was afraid the door jambs would have to be removed to change the switch. That's why I figured they would be a pain to replace.
I'm afraid I can't use a mule. I have several hundred up on Capitol Hill." [Ronald Regan refusing a gift of a mule]
If you're retrofitting a door switch to an existing closet you could use any number of surface mount switches, I'd think. There are magnetic switches, like what are commonly used for burglar alarms, or you could install a Micro switch inside the closet, like this:
View Image
This looks like a pretty expensive version (it was the first picture I could find online quickly), but you can find similar switches in surplus shops pretty cheaply.
I've used both approaches in my closets.
I found that the use of motion detectors are nice, but the longevity issue comes in to play. Never, never use those from the box stores. Pay up for the higher price models from the electric supply house. They last much longer.
The jamb switches are great when there is a relatively easy approach to getting them in and the feed up overhead. True, they are hassles with those that leave doors open, but there is a small subset of the population (female) that insist on them being closed. These switches reinforce that expected behavior.
As far as putting the fixture inside the closet, I've had success with an eyeball can mounted outside the closet controlled by that jamb switch.
i just sold a house built in 1929 and the door jamb switches were still working as well as the day they were in stalled
pier7
I want one of those toilets that flush automatic like you see in restarants.. 2+3=7
Perhaps you could just use a motion detector switch with a short cycle time- no moving parts, potentially easier install.
A motion detector for the closet would be a better idea. I have a friend who build an upscale house about 11 yrs ago, and they put jamb switches in all the closets. She began hating them about 2 yrs later. Problem is that, especially for the kitchen pantry, you can't leave the door open or ajar cuz the light will stay on.
Don't know about you, but the closet doors stay partially open almopst all the time at out house.
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
I put them in areas with no windows, ie understair, cold cellar, very robust units sold by HD. Connection/mounting box is small so try to keep them to 2 wire end runs, notch trimmer studs in the rough stage ..
I agree with Eddie that closet doors are frequently either open or left ajar, especially in households with kids. I have a hard enough time getting them to turn out the room lights, let alone having to yell at them to close the closet doors!
I put a motion detector switch in my MBR closet. For some reason they do not last very long. Whenever we get those 1 second power outages, they do not shut off (even after powering them off for 30 minutes) or they turn on & off all the time even when the door is shut.
The next replacement is the last one.
Hi Phil,
or they turn on & off all the time even when the door is shut.
I have the same issue with the motion light in the closet. Did you ever figure out what was setting it off when the door was closed?
I gave up on mine and just turned it off.
Bill
Never found out. I even played with the sensitivity settings, but no joy. Annoying when the lights would go on in the middle of the night (sometimes scary too when asleep and that happens). I just replaced it during the summer. We were having brown out problems (low voltage) during the summer which I wondered if that was affecting it. But a new unit did not have the problem.
Then just last weekend, we had a 1 second power failure and now it won't shut off even after manually disconnecting it. At $20.00 a pop, I think a pull chain switch is in my future.
Nice to know I'm not the only one. I fussed around with the sensitivity too, even experimented by covering most of the eye with black tape in an effort to limit it's view.
A electronics guy suggested it could be infrared sensitive, meaning the heating currents in the house could be making it "see movement".
I'll be going with the hard wired switch when we remuddle that room.
I doubt that the heat is messin with it, especially inside a closet. They aren't THAT sensitive.
When I replaced the flakey one this past Summer, the new one worked great.... up until that 1 second power outage last week. Nothing else in the house was bothered by it. Except some of the much, much older outside motion sensors stayed on until I had to shut them off. Then they worked fine (the cannot tell the difference bewtween a power glitch hiccup and when you turn on and off the light switch to put them in manual override to stay on).
My brother used them for his kids room when they were small and could not reach the light switch. Also, cause they would not turn off the lights if they could reach! Those units worked fine. I think it is these newer cheaper designs/materials that causes them to fail so easy.
"I doubt that the heat is messin with it..."
If the house has forced air heat, and there was a vent in the closet, it might cause some of the clothes to move a bit.
When I was in grade school I wanted to be an astronaut. My teacher told me that I was just taking up space.
Moths. Put in some cedar or fumigate :)
I went lookin for secret doorways in the back of the closet. Of course, since I am the one that framed and rocked that closet I really did not think I'd find one. Ghosts, well, maybe.
Giangantic moths, trying on your suits for size.
When I replaced the flakey one this past Summer, the new one worked great.
Interesting, now you got me thinking I should try one more Switch. Maybe a completely different brand / better quality / something that's not from the home center???
OK, another job for the list...
You could put a jamb switch in series with a regular wall switch. That way you could turn it off at the wall switch if you want to leave the door open, or you can leave the wall switch on and use the jamb switch instead.
-- J.S.
can't leave the door open or ajar cuz the light will stay on.
I've 'fixed' that one by just putting another switch in the pantry. Only downside there, is the light is off, door open or closed until that switch is flipped back to "on."
"Best" answer for that, in my experience is to add an X-10 motion detector in the switch leg (note, that requires some more X-10 'stuff' in the install). That creates the logical "and" that the customer wants--door is open and someone is inside. (The X-10 is the smallest, least clunky, least finicky answer I've found, that customers will pay for--not necessarily the 'best' hardware to use.)Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)
Boss, I've got six of them in my own house and have installed over a hundred of them in the last ten years. I have never, ever had a problem with one of them. The ones in my house are 16 years old.
Just be sure you use #14 wire, as the box is rather small. Also make sure you order the correct switch. Some are normally open and some are normally closed. They are wonderful!!
If I could get my computer to post photos, I'd show you some. I've tried every thing I can think of to get a picture to post but something is blocking the pop ups.
Fer the record.....from one who had always thought the idea of lights in a closet was brilliant...it aint. Well...not brilliant, maybe convenient.
Truth is, unless its a substantial size closet that isnt overloaded with "stuff", the light does little good. (Unless what you're looking for is at the top of the aforementioned "stuff")
I thought the autoswitches which you described were a great idea. That was...up until I actually had to install one. Pain in the arse.
I installed closet lights in my home when we put on an addition....not the auto type, couldn't be bothered.....they see little use.
As an added convenience during the construction phase of a project, its not a bad idea, but I certainly wouldn't bother to add them to existing closets after the fact. Especially if your closets look like mine....containing twice as much as they were intended to hold.
And, as others have mentioned, the kids certainly aren't going to concern themselves with turning them off.
My two cents.
J. D. Reynolds
Home Improvements
I've heard about an interesting closet light that consists of a row of white LEDs mounted in the underside of the closet rod. Low voltage, and the light is right where you need it. I haven't seen it in person but it sounds like an neat idea.
Boss - another idea for closet lights. Just inside the closet door I install an illuminated light switch that controls an outlet in the closets ceiling. Then I install a plain florescent strip fixture with a lens, usually in the corner of the ceiling above the door. A "nice" one, 4' long, with a 12" cord can be had for $25.
This throws a tremendous amount of light down onto the clothes, they're cool to the touch (unlike any incandesant bulb) so they're less likely to start a fire, and the bulbs last for years and years.
If the closets needs change over time there's nothing easier then unplugging what's there and plugging in something else.
I have closets in my home like this and I've done many for customers too. All very happy with the result.
They're simple, cheap, and work really well lighting up the closets interior.
I also paint the closets with a satin finish white or off-white. I did my first one with white semi-gloss and it was a bit too much reflected light, especially in the morning.
I also use melamine shelves and apply a 1 1/4" oak edge that gets stained or painted. Makes for a nice smooth shelf that is easy to clean and won't pull or snag on clothing placed on it.
Buic
I did a thread a long time ago asking about closet lighting. And my understanding was that incandescent lights were better than flourescent because of the color of the light. I guees the incandescant lights put out light more in a wave length that's closer to batural light, or something like that. Maybe someone will jump in that knows more about it.
Who could be serious with men? What I really wanna do is to date a lot of pigs. Tell 'em to line up outside... and bring lots of emeralds. [Judy Tenuta]
Boss - if the exact shade of color of clothing is important, put in a daylight bulb. Very easy to find and not that expensive...Buic
PS - The possibility of a fire with a hot bulb is a bigger concern to me. Most people will fill a closet right up. Quite often the top gets the shoeboxes with the tissue paper inside.
Just a thought...Buic
Edited 1/11/2006 3:55 pm ET by BUIC
Bare bulbs in closets aren't allowed under the NEC, I believe. (Based on what others have said here) And it would be nuts to use them. I was thinking more of an incandescent bulb enclosed in a globe.
He loves me, we have great sex, and he fixes my car. [Amy Fisher]
The problem with flourscents is that people use the cheap cool white or warm white. They have poor color rendition.You can get the "Designer" (SPX) bulbs that have much better color rendition, either in warm (2800k) which matches incandscent or 5000k which is "daylight" and a couple in between.BTW the incandescent bulbs are now putting on filters to give them a cooler, daylight look. The Reveal Bulbs and similar.And incandscent bulbs need to be in enclosed fixture in closets. Here are the clearances.http://www.codecheck.com/pg27_28electrical.html#rough
I HATE THE #### THINGS.
The architects love 'em, and they go in every closet, and the problem is that they get carried awiay with the "perfect " closet lighting. As said above, there are code restrictions on the clearences. A quick last minute fix is to replace the incandesent bulb with a flourecsent bulb, or even remove a shelf and rod all together, omly to be put back when the inspector leaves. Somtimes a door swing gets changed at the last minute, and the electrician is either never notified, or forgets to change the rough in, which means now the door is going to hit the plunger since it's on the wrong side now, oh yeah, now get the rocker swich which will work now, but it wears away the paint. People should eat more carrotts.