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My local code official has decided that I must “close in” the ceiling of my “non-business” wood shop with sheet rock. He does not want to see exposed insulation as it is a potential fire hazard.
I would like to add 1″ clotex to the bottom of the rafters before installing sheet rock.
1″ cleotex claims an additional R-2.8 if you leave an air gap. It sounds like trouble to me, but I am not a pro so here is the specifics. Roughly 700 sq.’ flat roof with 2* pitch, from the top down, rubber roof with silver coating, 1/2″ cdx sheathing, approx. 3 1/2″ air space vented front to back through soffit, R-19 fiberglass stapled to bottom of rafters. I can attach the Cleotex foil side down directly to the rafters, (16″ on center) and cover with 1/2″ rock..
If I attempt to use the “air gap” for increased r-value I will need to install strapping either over the foam board, or directly to the rafters and then cut foam board to fit snug in between. If I go with the strapping it will be on 24″ centers and I would likely have to use 5/8″ rock as opposed to 1/2″ on 16″ centers.
Questions, is the air gap a good idea or marketing hoo haa? To me it sounds like a condensation problem waiting to happen, but if I was that smart I wouldn’t be here asking the question. If it is an acceptable way of gaining r-value how would you go about it and how much gap are we talking about? Strapping to rafters, strapping over foam board, no strapping no gap?
I am not so concerned with a few bucks either way and the labor is free to me, I just want the best for what I have to work with.
Any guidance you can provide would be much appreciated.
Thank You, Bill
Ps,
I did make an attempt to run this question past the code official and he “don’t give a shit as long as it’s covered” He is a friendly fellow who thinks all home owners are morons. I would love to pick a fight with this guy for his demeaning attitude, ( I am not arguing the fire issue just the attitude) but it’s not worth the grief. I am an inspector also, but in a completely different field. I can tell you that his nasty disposition would not be tolerated in the defense industry
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Clotex, Cleotex, Maybe Celotex? I wouldn't bother to add any of them if I were you. Why waste all that time and money for R 2.* I would install the firecode sheetrock and be done with it. By the way, I agree with your inspector. A friend of mine had a large shop just like yours burn down because a radio caught fire and ignited the wall and it got up into the open ceiling and burned the whole shop down with over a million $$ worth of equipment inside!! He could have easily put the fire out if it hadn't gotten into the ceiling.
*Why don't you put up the Celotex and put an acoustical lay-in ceiling below that? It would make it easier to change things like wiring or whatever later on.Billy
*Just remember if you use a suspended ceiling that you have to have it a minimum of 3" for clearance to get the panels in.Billy
*Mr Lalonde, 1" clotex is r-7.2, the additional r-2.8 is from the "air space".
*I got it...bifocals covered w/ sawdust today...Depends on how much work you want to do....BUT be sure and cover you ceiling w/sheetrock. Give it a good paint job and seal to make sure your shop air isn't going up into your insulation cavity.
*Mr. Lalonde, Thanks for the feed back, I spoke to a friend last night who does industrial construction, office buildings and such. It looks like it will be 2x strapping attached to bottom of rafters with foam board fit snug and 5/8' rock for something like r-29 total . 5/8 isn't much more money, it's a lot more work this way but I think it is best, and I only have to do this once! Wait till my wife finds out I am spending $500 on the shop ceiling when the house is not finished yet. Oh Boy!
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My local code official has decided that I must "close in" the ceiling of my "non-business" wood shop with sheet rock. He does not want to see exposed insulation as it is a potential fire hazard.
I would like to add 1" clotex to the bottom of the rafters before installing sheet rock.
1" cleotex claims an additional R-2.8 if you leave an air gap. It sounds like trouble to me, but I am not a pro so here is the specifics. Roughly 700 sq.' flat roof with 2* pitch, from the top down, rubber roof with silver coating, 1/2" cdx sheathing, approx. 3 1/2" air space vented front to back through soffit, R-19 fiberglass stapled to bottom of rafters. I can attach the Cleotex foil side down directly to the rafters, (16" on center) and cover with 1/2" rock..
If I attempt to use the "air gap" for increased r-value I will need to install strapping either over the foam board, or directly to the rafters and then cut foam board to fit snug in between. If I go with the strapping it will be on 24" centers and I would likely have to use 5/8" rock as opposed to 1/2" on 16" centers.
Questions, is the air gap a good idea or marketing hoo haa? To me it sounds like a condensation problem waiting to happen, but if I was that smart I wouldn't be here asking the question. If it is an acceptable way of gaining r-value how would you go about it and how much gap are we talking about? Strapping to rafters, strapping over foam board, no strapping no gap?
I am not so concerned with a few bucks either way and the labor is free to me, I just want the best for what I have to work with.
Any guidance you can provide would be much appreciated.
Thank You, Bill
Ps,
I did make an attempt to run this question past the code official and he "don't give a shit as long as it's covered" He is a friendly fellow who thinks all home owners are morons. I would love to pick a fight with this guy for his demeaning attitude, ( I am not arguing the fire issue just the attitude) but it's not worth the grief. I am an inspector also, but in a completely different field. I can tell you that his nasty disposition would not be tolerated in the defense industry