We have an 1887 house and the tile surrounding the bathtub is falling off the wall. The underlying plaster is also shot and falling away. The long wall is an exterior wall, and given the peeling paint on the exterior of the house in that area, I doubt that it’s insulated.
Here’s what I’m thinking of doing:
1. Remove all the tile, plaster and lath.
2. Install fiberglass bats.
3. Install a vapor barrier (any recommendations on what to use?)
4. Install Durock.
5. Install a 5-piece, pressed-fiberglass tub surround kit. Tile would be lovely, but we plan to do a complete remodel at some point, so this is just to provide a high-quality “foundation” and make it usable for the next few years.
Anything I’m missing? Any pointers or recommendations?
Thanks!
Dave
Replies
Sounds like a sound plan to me.
But be aware....with that age of house, your plans will not stay the same. Something will rear its ugly head. If you're lucky, it wil be small.
Unless you're the lead dog, the view just never changes.
2. Install fiberglass bats.
You may find that your stud bays are not very uniform, or are a non-standard size. This can make batts problematic. FG will not have a lot of supporters in this forum. With bare studs, you have a number of options. I'd be inclined towards cellulose, it will pack into irregular spaces, and give good insulation.
The plan you have is well thought out and sounds good to me.
Isn't cellulose just loose stuff that gets blown in? If so, how would I install it with nothing to hold it in place?
The problem with retrograding a surround is gonna be your house, it isn't gonna be level or square, and those two things help to make a smooth installation critical. As long as your gonna demo the upper, you might as well take out the tub too, dress up the framing, and check out Sterlings tub/surround combos that nail directly to the studs. Best way to go, IMO.
If you truely are set on a multi-piece surround and existing tub, apply flashing over the tub rim prior to installing the durock (blocking should be installed all around the tub rim.) Probably not required, but I always do it anyway, as older tub flanges are not much deeper than 3/8".
Prior to closing the walls, place the pieces against the wall and mark the edges of the pieces that are applied first (corners for 5-piece, back for 3-piece.) Add blocking all along the top of the surround, and additional studs at the sides and backs. These will better hold the roofing nails I usually use to help hold the pieces against the rock. The nail heads should be hid by the overlapping panels.
Dryfit the pieces. I usually require 10 or more braces to prop the panels in place until the adhesive cured (and use more than they give you, BTW,) including braces from the long wall opposite the tub back wall. Use scraps of carpet to protect the fiberglass. I number the braces so they go back together without trial/error. And make a full paper template to drill the holes for the tub stubout and shower controls.
Lastly, I haven't installed one of these in some months, as I try like the devil to convince the HO that the best way to go is to demo the whole enchilada and fit in new equipment. It's more work, but they are willing to pay a little extra for the piece of mind. (I've never had a leak on a multi-piece unit, though I'm willing to concede it may just be a matter of time.)