Anyone have any experience with the colored hardi plank?
At first glance ,it appears to be less costly than painting.Will I have alot of touch ups? I assume we can get touch up paint from hardi,right?
thanks, mike
Anyone have any experience with the colored hardi plank?
At first glance ,it appears to be less costly than painting.Will I have alot of touch ups? I assume we can get touch up paint from hardi,right?
thanks, mike
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Replies
We went with something a little different than the Hardi colors. Our lumberyard told us about Cabot factory finishing, which offers a much larger choice of colors.
We ordered the siding from the yard, they sent it off to Cabot to be factory painted. It was then carefully packaged (foam between every piece of siding) and delivered to us. We got a 5 gallon bucket of the paint for touch ups. I don't know if it's cheaper than having it painted afterwards (the siding plus paint was about $180/square), but it does seem easier to deal with.
If you go this route, definitely take advantage of the paint samples. You call up Cabot, tell them which colors you want samples of (for $3 or something similar), and they ship them to you. The colors look much different on several pieces of siding than they do in the little 1 inch squares.
Jo
We've thought about using the pre-finished products before and never made the leap.
I was told they have to be handled very delicately and the finish marred easily.
Not necessary wearing through but scuffing it and causing the sheen to be different.
What was your experience with installing it, how careful did you have to be, and how well did the touch up work?
We're just HO's, so we don't have any other experience with Hardi. Mostly the finish seems ok. It gets really dusty when we cut it. There are several pieces where it's chipped on the edges--mostly where the bands were holding it together. We haven't finished yet, so I haven't touched it up. I had it delivered way to early (November?) and it's been sitting out under two layers of tarps since then (during a Michigan winter). I don't know if the chipping problems result from our neglect, or if they would have happened regardless.It is packaged really well. There is a layer of foam in between each and every board, the whole thing came wrapped in plastic to protect it.GIven that I would be the one painting the house (2 story w/a walkout), I much prefer the thought of just touching it up, rather than giving the whole house 2 coats while suspended 40 ft in the air.Jo
I think Hardie is great stuff (all FC products are).
Wonder why HArdie does not advertise much?
We've used the Hardie prepainted, and let me tell you it's not tender. The finish is rock hard. We would demostraight to people by throwing it down on the ground and rub it around, dust it off and it looked awsum.Cost wise it was a great deal. Basicly around 2100.00 more for a 3800sq.ft. house. All the ends are done as well as length wise edges, if you butt only painted ends in the field and cut only to the corner boards or windows you won't have touch ups (oh ya blind nail it also). Just my 2 cents.David <!----><!---->
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I prefer Certainteed Weatherboard over Hardi (kind of a Chevy/Ford/Dodge thing, probably).
I've installed both the factory stained and we've done our own staining.
The factory stains are definitely more cost effective....if you stain yourself, the planks must be coated on the flat. We set up a large truck tarp and pallets so we could spray a large quantiy at once, but a "large" quantity on the ground is just a portion of the plank for an entire house of any size.
Since we were working outside (summertime), fluxuations in humidity and temperature seemed to affect the consistency of the coverage. We used a Ben Moore product...it dries quickly, so we were able to give each layout the necessary three coats to achieve the hue desired by the HO.
The next house we did, I bought the factory stained and it was excellent and we didn't have to handle each plank a half dozen times.
In BOTH cases, the coatings were very tough and mar resistant. We had a few scrap pieces that we would rub together face to face, toss dirt or sand between them and rub them together....the finishes were incredibly tough and durable.
In both the field stained and factory stained, we touched up cut ends with the Ben Moore stain.
I just received 24 squares of hardi finished by WEISS. They also finished the MIRAtec trim. We just unloaded it and will get started mid-next week. It came very nicely packaged - I was closer to 236 a square but that is shipped up to AK. This is my first experience w/prefinished.
We'll see how it goes.
I'm finishing up the last of 35 square of prefinished Hardie. I could probably do all the touch ups with a quart of paint. Most are due to sliding painted surfaces across the unpainted backs or accidental dings. There's a reason it's stacked painted surface to painted surface or vice versa. Had a "helper" one day who didn't realized that. Don't even carry pieces back to front, always keep it back to back or face to face.
As far as getting matching paint. I took a small piece to Sears, they stuck it in their machine and mixed a gallon to match. It's noticeable when wet, but once it dried, it's hard to find the test area.
If you get the prepainted, you can also get color matched caulk, OSI Quad. It matches pretty well and is readily available.
I also used the Hardie sofit, which doesn't (or at that time) come painted. After painting that, I would much rather use the prepainted siding.
I've played with using acid stain on a few scraps while i was stain'n concrete... i think it's pretty doable... stains up just like concrete for the most part I don't know how it would stand up and you'd have to use a matching caulk...
don't know if i'm brave enough to acid stain the wall of a house with a garden sprayer ...YET
anyone else tried acid stains on hardie?
p
You can eliminate a large portion of touch-ups by using a 6 inch reveal and blind-nailing the siding. Yeah, you will have the butt joints, and window and Door cutouts but it sure will save you some paint.
Ocean State Builders, Inc.