Replies

1. 
   Guest_ | May 21, 1999 12:27pm | #1

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   Mr. Baum,
   You will need to isolate with some kind of dampcoarse material, ( there are a few types to choose from ).

1. 
   Guest_ | May 21, 1999 08:38pm | #2

   *If you are in an area with subterranean termites, do NOT do this. You WILL have termite problems.

1. 
   Guest_ | May 22, 1999 12:36am | #3

   *For starters, wouldn't the rim joist need to be flashed or otherwise protected to prevent the concrete from being in contact with the "white wood"?

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   Guest_ | May 22, 1999 02:55am | #4

   *Mike,That is a possibilty depending on how you treat prior. We have to use a combination of poison and physical barriers, how do you handle this? For more information try this site

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   Guest_ | May 22, 1999 04:07am | #5

   *Simple expansion joint material made of asphalt impregnated sheating will do the job quiet well and is very inexpensive.Gabe

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   Guest_ | May 22, 1999 05:57am | #6

   *What did you do with that post? Were you testing the new deletion markers, or what?All physical barriers should direct subterranean termites toward an area that can be visually inspected. These are tenacious critters that will find their way through or around anyting. Any hidden path from earth to wood is an invitation to them. The insecticide of choice, chlorodane, is no longer available because of misuse. It was extremely effective over long periods of time and very safe in any situation where it was not likely to be disturbed by people, animals or water. The problem was its use in siturations were it was allowed to be washed away. Its main virtue, its longevity, became its danger. Although much safer, today's incecticides don't last long enough to be a permanent termite barrier.

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   G.LaLonde | May 22, 1999 06:00am | #7

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   D.J. , When we have to do this, we run a length of the rubber ice & water shield membrane along the joint and position it so it is at least 6" above the concrete surface and at least 6" below the wood sill plate. Then we cover that with some type of metal flashing . Most of the flashing then gets covered by the siding.

3. 
   Guest_ | May 23, 1999 07:10am | #8

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   Nahhh,
   Couldn't get the HTML right for the link and with Seans new set up have left a trail behind me!!

4. 
   Greg_Padden | May 25, 1999 04:03am | #9

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   If your worried about pest, try spraying the joist with a Borate base pest control product. Borate is good for 20 years.

   I got some Shellguard from http://www.perma-chink.com it kindof expensive but may be worth piece of mind.

5. 
   Guest_ | May 29, 1999 04:06am | #10

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   Mike's advice about bugs getting in is correct, you can't fight Mother Nature despite what the chemical companies tell you. Pouring concrete up to the house is simply a bad idea and should be replanned. (Why create another need for chemicals, we have enough already!) Since this is only a patio, there should be room for some creative, cost effective alternatives. However, if you must keep the plane of the patio up to the house, how about using an edging of brick or blocks by the house so that they can be removed annually for inspection and retreatment of the area.

6. 
   D.J._Baum | May 29, 1999 04:10am | #11

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   I need to pour a concrete patio against the side of a house. However part of the concrete needs to be poured at a height which comes a few inches up the rim joist. The joist is not pressure treated. Any suggestions on a solution to keep moisture from between the wood and concrete?