Replies

1. 
   calvin | Dec 10, 2009 07:48am | #1

   Size and type of anchor, condition of brick and morter (hardness) and wt. of what you're going to hang decides where I would put the anchor. The depth of the mantle too would have a bearing on what to do.

   Shear, either is fine in almost all cases. Pullout (from a deeper mantle) is usually better in brick, unless it's soft brick.

   Drop in anchors really grip hard in solid material.

   Plastic anchors sometimes work easier in softer material.

   What's the wt. and size of what you're going to put up there?

2. 
   hammer1 | Dec 10, 2009 07:50am | #2

   I always use the mortar joints. Some brick can be very difficult to drill and some may fracture. The mortar usually drills easily, use a hammer drill and a carbide masonry bit.

1. 
   Henley | Dec 11, 2009 07:07am | #3

   Plus, you can patch a joint if you need to.

   Not so much with the brick.

1. 
   calvin | Dec 11, 2009 08:12am | #4

   new

   Submitted by Henley on Fri, 12/11/2009 - 07:07.

   Henley,

   Any bets he won't find his way back here?

1. 
   Crawdad | Dec 11, 2009 10:43am | #6

   Hope you didn't make that bet
   Hope you didn't make that bet Calvin. Actually, I've been a member here for quite some time and a regular lurker and seeker of advice. I don't post much because I'm a rank amateur compared to most everybody here. The left column where my post is noted under Const. Tech. still says there are zero replies so I hadn't bothered to check any further. Anyway,thanks to all for the advice. As stated I haven't even seen the mantle but from her desc. it sounds like its made from 1x stock, nothing too heavy. I thought I remembered reading here or someplace else over the years that you should always drill into the brick. Just wanted to check with those in the know. Again thanks to all of you who've been a great source of knowledge over the years. Dave

1. 
   popawheelie | Dec 11, 2009 12:21pm | #8

   I felt I should respond to your comment about anchoring into the brick.

   I have a brick house and have been drilling into the brick for a couple of reasons.

   My bricks are full/deep bricks so there is a lot of material to tap into.

   I have two hammer drills so I can drill into them.

   The mortar isn't that stong on my brick walls.

   If I was going to make one point about fastening to masonry it would be to try a hole first and see how it goes.

   Many time I've planned on how to attach to masonry and had to rething my plan because of the material.

   All masonry is different because of the mix, age, or conditions it has been in.

   I'd try the mortar fisrt and see how it goes.

2. 
   calvin | Dec 12, 2009 10:04pm | #10

   new

   Submitted by crawdad on Fri, 12/11/2009 - 10:43.

   Hope you didn't make that bet Calvin.

   Hey Dave, I see you found your way back. I finally stumbled upon your post to me elsewhere to check back here.

   Mama Mia, what a stink'n chore this is traveling the forum.

   I'll listen to all the talk of better, state of the art ect. but till they get us back to post notification, read/unread, we be fuck 'd.

   And there isn't even alot of traffic here...........

   Well good, might as well get fuck 'd twice.

3. 
   ms | Dec 11, 2009 08:37am | #5

   Dave,

   I build mantels with a recess in the back so the mantel can fit over 2X blocking. Then I use concrete anchors & P&L to attach the blocking to the brick at the mortar joints. The mantel slips over and is screwed (GRK finish screws) to the blocks.

   Mark

4. 
   Crawdad | Dec 11, 2009 11:02am | #7

   In the event that the rest of you don't see my post above, thanks for taking the time to reply. Trying to get used to this new format.

1. 
   Henley | Dec 11, 2009 01:04pm | #9

   Still says "0 replies" or some such.

   Oh well, it looks like you got some good advice.

   This place it going to take some getting use to.

1. 
   Jeff_Clarke | Dec 15, 2009 08:39pm | #11

   It is quite possible, BTW, to attach a mantel using a 'split cleat' system which helps to avoid any visible fasteners - particularly useful when wood is stained and harder to patch.

1. 
   Crawdad | Dec 17, 2009 06:34am | #12

   Theres an idea I hadn't
   Theres an idea I hadn't thought of, and a good one at that. After looking at the piece Ill be mounting a 2x to the brick and the mantle to that. This is a "used" mantle and was previously mounted in the same fashion so the holes are already there unseen on the top. Thanks again to all. Dave

1. 
   Tyr | Dec 18, 2009 04:30am | #13

   Very common for us to install exterior window guards (bars). They are NEVER installed into mortar. Much too weak. You might have a heat consideration but it is a piece of cake to hammer drill a brick. Bricks normally have 3 holes for mortar to grip so seldom solid brick all the way. Using 1/4" one way fasteners we drill, tap in a plastic anchor, start the one way, then tap it and the plastic anchor deeper into the hole (it makes it really tight when screwed down) when bars are up we hang (200 lbs) on the cross tube and nothing moves.

   Cross bar is only about 1" out from brick so not the leverage as a mantel. Can you support the mantel on either side with either wood or (in my case) a nice steel bracket that would extend from outer edge of mantel (edge closest to person standing in front) all the way to the edge against the brick?

   Have also seen mortar removed around bricks, turned 90 degrees and remortared with bricks added to form a ledge to carry weight of mantel. (not exactly like exterior cap which has a slope away from house but close) Tyr