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We are planning a kitchen/family room bump-out in the rear of a ranch style split level house. The new room will consume too much of the “level” grade in the backyard leaving a 5 foot elevation change and thus requiring a deck of some sort. After years of building wood decks, I am leaning toward a concrete deck that can be covered with used bricks and stone – solid, watertight, and maintenance free. Any ideas or reference data would be appreciated.
thanks
Dean
Replies
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Pour your footings, backfill with sand and base. Finish to FFH with 6" slab.
*If you're thinking of covering with used brick, might also look into stamped concrete. Similar look possible with less maintenance.
*I wouldnt use used brick.....it will corrode and fall apart over time. I've tried it. Buy new brick that "looks" used.
*Rich - Based on your comments and the comments of others, I see that I was not very clear in my original post. This is not a slab-on-grade design. This is a floating slab, like a parking structure.The "deck" would be elevated 5' above the grade, thus providing storage space underneath. On the outside edge of the deck I invision a series of (stone or brick covered) arches with recessed heavy wood doors (ala wine cellar, or European court yard) for access. This same wall would also form the "railing" of the upper deck. The perimiter walls of the deck could probably be cynder block and formed concrete that I will cover, but how do I go about the deck. Any ideas are appreciated...Dean
*Dean, we have built elevated decks using the method as I described. But if you want all that open space below, I can't help you other than to say you may be looking at getting an engineer.Those arches and other details you mentioned sound really cool. If that's what you want don't give it up too easily. I think it sounds like a lot of figuring and heavy work.
*We built a screen porch deck using a suspended slab in the manner you describe. Ours had a full foundation but I see no reason why it couldn't have been on columns. Ours had a full foundation underneath but I see no reason why you couldn't set it on columns. We hired an engineer to design the slab and reinforcement. The deck was approximately 20x20 with an integral beam poured down the middle. The slab was 6" with #3 rerod on 9" centers both ways. Beautiful but not cheap. The customer insisted that we hire a particular concrete finisher and I'm glad she did.
*Please get an engineer. They will design the reinforcing and the columns. Concrete design is not a do it your self project. You can over reinforce a concrete beam or slab. If you do this the concrete fails with out first cracking (ie, letting you know that there is a problem).
*We also have an elevated porch and there's a porch roof overhead. The supports on one side are 3" steel columns on 12 x 12 x 8" footers. W6 x ? i-beams connect the columns, L beams welded on top form a lip, and the concrete rests on that. On the other side it's 18" poured columns w/ 6 #6 rebar and belts. A W14 x 40 (or close to that) was slid through "holes" in the columns, like a thread through a needle. L beam welded 4" from top of beam--concrete poured between the L and the top flange of beam. #4 rebar 8" oc. 4" concrete, colored and stamped. The formwork was rented structural scaffold, topped by steel beams, aluminum beams, and plyform. I learned a lot doing it. Parts were hard, parts were fun.The point of the details is to show what _can_ be involved. Every situation is unique. But the only way to know for your situation is to do as the others recommend and get an engineer. Only way to feel comfortable (and safe).
*Look into the possibility of using pre-cast, pre-stressed concrete planks with your paving laid on top in a sand/cement screed.This would be a lot easier than forming an in-situ slab.
*Use corrugated metal decking designed for concrete pours. The deck comes in many rib sizes and metal gauges. Talking to an engineer about this combined with other details would be an excellent idea to help with sizing and specifying any beams or shoring that may be necessary. Depending on the decking, sometimes you can span up to 6' to 8'. The engineer will most likely recommend bending rebar to tie the block to the slabs.
*Check this site for another option to forming and pouring it. I think the insulation provided with this system could be a strong consideration.http://www.litedeck.com/Terry
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We are planning a kitchen/family room bump-out in the rear of a ranch style split level house. The new room will consume too much of the "level" grade in the backyard leaving a 5 foot elevation change and thus requiring a deck of some sort. After years of building wood decks, I am leaning toward a concrete deck that can be covered with used bricks and stone - solid, watertight, and maintenance free. Any ideas or reference data would be appreciated.
thanks
Dean