Last year I had a Pole Building constructed as my dream garage. Now I would like to connect it somehow to a existing garage (on slab) 10 feet away. As I live in the cold Buffalo climate one floats and the other doesnt. Is there some type of sliding connection that can be made??
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Greetings Tea,
This post, in response to your question, will bump the thread through the 'recent discussion' listing again.
Perhaps it will catch someones attention that can help you with advice.
Cheers
I am becoming increasingly worried that there isn't enough anxiety in my life
bump
Let the beauty of what you love be what you do. ~ Drinking Rum
What kind of "connection" are you talking about?
What is the purpose of this "connection".
For code and zone purposes often a single board is used to connection 2 structures so that they are one.
What I would like to do is attach the 2 buildings together as one or at the mininum have a enclosed walk way.
I have not sure how you would do this, or the approprite materials.But I would extend one building towards the other. Whichever building where the addition would move with it.Then when you get within 3-12" you need a flexible transistion zone.I am thinking of something like the foam collar where jetways connect to airplanes. Or the canvas acording material used on the joist of the jetways.I have also see similar setups on truck docks to mat with the trailers.
tea.. which structure do you think is "floating".. and what do you base this on ?
do you have any measurements of movement ?
Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Tea,
Two objects side by side, moving seperately, don't want to be tied together rigidly.
Basically, this means no plywood or osb.
Pour a floating slab, 3 1/2" thick with 6" stem walls, rebar in the stems, mesh or bar in the slab, isolation material between it and existing foundations.
Conventional framing, 2' O.C., EXCEPT; the studs and rafters on each end are attached to the existing buildings and stop 2" above the sill plate. Use screws (8" to 12" O.C., staggered,) hold the member 1/4" off the existing siding. Fill the gap with "great Stuff" for doors and windows. After the foam sets back the screws out 1/4". Simpson makes a perfect screw for this, made for coupling floor trusses.
The bottom plates stop 1/2" from the existing walls, the top plates stop 2' O.C. from them. Gaskets or "great Stuff" between old and new. The nearest stud and rafter on the new plates is 2' O.C. from the existing.
Sheathing, siding, and interior walls: No sheet goods, all boards. All material runs continuous from one existing wall framing member to the other.
5/8 drywall (or strap 16" O.C. and 1/2",) the ceiling and stuff the attic full of insulation. Use J-bead or suspended ceiling trim at the existing ends, keep the DW 1/4" short and do not tape the J-bead to the DW or nail the DW. Prepaint (or at least prime,) the DW edge that goes into the J-bead.
This will give you a very flexible connecting passage that is weather tight, comfortable, long lasting, and attractive. Except maybe the siding won't match. You can't have everything.
Add one ceiling light and one electric heater set for about 40° to 50°.
SamT