Cordless Hammerdrill, Are they Worth it?
Spent a day this week hanging a door in a cut concrete opening. I used Tapcons thru the jambs to mount it. While drilling the holes using a corded Mak. hammerdrill, I was wondering if the cordless variety could perform as well.
At the same time, I’m contemplating buying the Mak LI set; there are two, and both include the hammerdrill as standard. Question is, are they up to the challenge, and how do they compare with the standard drill/driver? Is weight an issue, speed differences, etc.
Any thoughts?
Thanks.
Hey Justin F., this would make a good topic for the column, What’s the difference. Instead of a full blown drill test, just point out the differences between the two tools, their advantages/disadvantages. Just a thought.
“I am the master of my fate, I am the captain of my soul.” Invictus, by Henley.
Replies
funny you should mention this. Last week I was installing "bucks" (treated 1x6) in concrete openings, while two guys were going behind me and installing the doors.
I was using a corded hammerdrill, the switch went bad, so I got out my dewalt 18v cordless, it actually worked great. I was worried about prolonged use because we were doing a lot of doors. (multi building condo complex) . but the drill and batteries kept up just fine.
I estimate I was putting in about 30 2-1/4" tapcons per battery charge. And the drill was only slightly slower than the corded at drilling holes.
Dewalt tools are kinda "light-duty" and I'm sure a makita or a bosch would be a better tool, But The dewalt seems to work great for tapcons.
i imagine the new litiium tools are going to be even more of a workhorse, if the article in the new FHB is any indication. But I'll wait until they become a bit more affordable. By then there should be a dominant "standard" as well. I sure don't want to get stuck with another betamax while living in a VHS world.
<<<was installing "bucks" (treated 1x6) <<2-1/4" tapcons When I install 2x w/tapcons I use 2-3/4" and they workgreat.. so I'm wondering if you have any problems gettingthe screw to suck up tight? I found that going into concretemore than 1" or 1-1/4" I have problems with the screw threading intothe concrete and pulling the material being fastened up tight.
The trick is to drill the hole plenty deeper than the length of the screw. as the screw threads itsself into the hole it is cutting threads into the hole, and subsequently pushing the concrete particles that it's creating into the hole ahead of the screw. if the hole you drilled is only a little bit deeper than the screw length, the hole will fill up with these particles and the screw will "bottom out" too soon. " If I were a carpenter"
Yep, got you on the drilling the hole deeper asI usually drill it an 1" deeper as per instructions but still have problems with the longer penetrations
Nick,
I have the Bosch 18 volt kit with hammerdrill. It works great on softer concrete and masonry, but not on older, very hard concrete. Several times I have struggled to drill for Tapcons and wished I'd brought the SDS instead.
Bill
I have been real happy attaching a LOT of downspouts to brick, Limestone and whathave you. I/we have DW 18 V hammerdrills and impact drivers...of late I have learned that the BITS are the problem.
We use 5/32 and 3/16 mostly and the Bosch out drill ANY bits made, I often oversize the hole a 1/16 amd use a sliver of copper as a feather and the screw as a wedge....trust me, one could climb down the downspout in a fire if needed and the crack heads can't steal the copper.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
There is no cure for stupid. R. White.
I really love my Milwaukee 18v hammer drill. I use it daily. If I have a ton of hammerdrilling to do I will get out the Bosch corded or the SDS, but 75% of the time the 18v does just fine on the lighter hammerdrilling, and it's mostly with Tapcons. I keep my little 12 impact at my side to drive the fasteners so it won't wear down the 18 v. It's an unbeatable combo.
I have the Milwaukee 18V and it works great. I have drilled lots of holes in brick, concrete, etc with no problems. Also, for running a lot of wiring, I have used the self-feeding bits (all the way to 2-9/16") through floors, sole and top plates and studs.
"I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
I use the Makita 18v lithium ion hammer drill to set conduit and similar tasks. It seems to have plenty of power, and battery life is good. I would not use it for drilling large holes in old concrete, but for tapcons, it has never left me down.
Prior to the Makita, I used a Milwaukee 18v which also worked great, so I don't think that the good results were brand-specific. I will say that the Makita definitely has much better battery life.
Elliott
I have drilled plenty of 1/2" and 9/16" holes in concrete, too. Old, new, not much difference unless there was a big stone in the way. Rumor has it that MKE will have or has Li-Ion 18V batteries coming out that will be a direct replacement for the NiCad. I'll talk with a friend who works there and get the particulars.
"I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
That would be great. I'd love to know, because my drill & batteries are about 21/2 years old with solid use. The drill is fine but I don't expect that many more years out of the batteries. Thanks.
http://www.milwaukeetool.com/us/en/news.nsf/vwPressReleases/3FAAA5E50B8B6273862571880055FCB7?OpenDocument
I haven't seen the reviews yet but if it's what it looks like I think this one will do every thing I would need.
Now if I only found that out 5 hammer drills ago. Bonk.
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There is quite a difference between a 'hammer-drill" and a 'roto-hammer."
The hammer-drill looks like, and can perform as, a regular drill. It will typically cost only a bit more (say, $30) than the cordless drill.
I use mine all the time. There are two things to keep in mind. First, in "hammer" it really eats batteries. Second, experience has taught me that these things are pretty much limited to holes 1/4" and smaller. Larger uses only help you wear out the tool fast!
The hammer-drill is a dream in brick, block, and most concrete.
The roto-hammer, on the other hand, uses "SDS" type bits, and works much, much better. Core drill bits are available for holes as large as 2". I have not tried any of the new "cordless" ones.
hey also cost twice as much as a hammer-drill.
IMHO
In short, yes. When you have to go around outside the house or up a ladder, there's nothing like NOT having to drag a cord around with you.