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Every time I take my time rolling my cords around my arm with special loving care. I end up either tying them with the ever popular knot in the middle, or I just leave it round tying it with a piece of wire. It doesn’t matter how there wrapped I still have to fight a knot when I unravel the cords. I ask all you professional craftsmen what is the best technique for wrapping and storing cords. worked with a electrician for one day,when he brought out his cords they looked like a big rats nest,then by grabbing one end of a cord he threw the whole mess in the air,when it landed there wasn’t a tangle,or a knot to be found. In amazement I pleaded for this great secret with no luck. Any ideas,suggestions,or comments thanks
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Replies
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Scott, many guys use that method. I don't like it because the cords never lay flat and I trip easy. I'm old.
You are experiencing serious knottage because the circumference of your loops are too tight. Stop that arm rolling method. That is good for women's extension cords, and vacumn sweeper cords.
Start making man loops and then hang them in the truck on a hook. In the morning, you will be able to throw the cord like a cowboy and it will sting itself out, lay flat and be ready to go instantly.
blue
*Use what was expained to me as a firemans loop, make loops by extending both arms out to the widest spread and continue til done . It makes large ,even loops.Plug ends together in one last smaller loop. Hang on truck or hook. Just showed my 8 yr. old helper/nephew this, he now proudly sports company shirt and money on Saturdays.
*Thats how I do it George. I like the new name "fireman's loop". blue
*I have always done the "around my arm" thing, but recently read that doing so stresses the plastic sheath on the cord. The article recommended doing the loosey goosey big loops. Seems unlikely to me that a little stress on the sheath during looping would cause problems (particularly given all the other abuse my cords get), but the guy claimed to be an expert on the subject - and if it's in an article, it's got to be right, right...
*being a sailor.. lines are just like extension cords..the arms length loops is right.. but to get the assholes out..flake the cord on the lawn... and stretch it out.. as you coil, give each coil a clockways twist.. if it grabs an asshole.. flip it out and recoil it..at the end.. take a bitter end, coil it around the coil, cinch it and pass the end thru the upper part of the hole....you can carry it by the end..or tie it off with rubber strips cut from an inner tube or rubber roofing.. and plug one end into the other ala george above... hang 'em up fi they won't be used for a while... or if you got a van...got one of the flat one's ? with a lot of twists and assholes ?tie a weight on one end and drop it over a bridge rail or high place to let it untwist... then coil it up as aboveyour electric cords should be just like a sailor's heaving line....b but hey, whadda i no...
*Mike you have a very eloquent way of expressing yourself at times.
*Right on Mike. You gotta keep the stuff stretched out to get them rolled up properly and give the half twist.bluePs. strectch them out in the morn and get all the twists out and it will lay nicely all day.pss I am picky about my cords. I will usually have to re coil anything that the boys bring me...
*george.... the eloquent part..?..is that the a**h*les ?.... hah, hah, hah
*At the orange box they sell a plastic reel that you hold in one hand with a crank on the side. You hold the underside (fixed) and crank in the cord onto the reel. For $6 it works better than almost anything else.
*If you have one of those flat cords - better idea.Tie a weight on one end and drop it over a bridge rail - and let go.Terry
*tle.... i did.....
*I've spent a bit of time on the water myself and I have strong opinions about the right way to coil my hoses and cords and ropes. Here are some of them: Coiling around the arm doesn't work. A coil has to be made in the hand with turn after turn laying down civil without too much persuasion or it will kink. Hoses should be laid down on the floor in figure-8's with each half of the 8 tied separately and then the whole thing folded together. If you lay a hose or rope down in a figure 8, you're putting in a half turn to the right, a half turn to the left and the net result is no kinks in the hose.Ron
*I do something I refer to as a "daisy chain."Wish I could figure out how to describe it...essentially I start with a loop about 12" in diameter, then reach through the loop, grab the cord, pull it through the loop so it makes another loop, reach through that loop, grab the cord, pull it through the second loop so it makes a third loop, and so on...until I get to the end.Never a tangle...and when working it unravels like sweater yarn coming unknit. It may actually be similar to a crochet stitch, 'cept with an extention cord.Never binds, never tangles or knots, works like a champ for me.
*Homeowners and such, when trying to help out, think they're saving themselves money, cuz they're saving you time, go right to the cords and worse yet the hoses. They shiver when I stop 'em dead in their tracks with a cold stare and the admonition to just leave it, I'll get that. When will they ever learn?Take a foot pc of both the male and the female (?) velcro and sweet talk your wife into sewing them together, back to back. Tightly wrap one end of the bisexual velcro to the plug end of the cord. The rest wraps and secures the rolled cord. Helps keep the plug in a socket by tieing off to conduit or whatever else is near. Holds two cords joined together.
*For cords 50' &longer, Istart rolling as perscribed above starting @ the female end so next use I plug in & throw/go
*I use the method that mike described. My ex-partner liked daisy chains, I save that for the nylon webbing in my climbing bag.Any one out there use twist lock plugs on their cords? I think its a west coast thing. I always knot the cords when I plug in.Tom
*Yep, I sail and rock climb (well, I used to rock climb, getting too old now) and you've described the ONLY way to handle a line or a cord. BUT, has anyone else noticed that cheap cords always tangle and good-quality ones rarely do ?
*I'm with the blue-eyed -devil, if you don't do it my way don't touch it. I'm real picky about them too.
*So back to the original post! Does anyone know how to do like the electrician did? I've seen it too....always amazed. Kinda like the daisy-chain, except the chains would be tighter and smaller. Everytime I've seen it, I think the cord is doubled, then twisted. This shoulda been a PeteFest competition! There is an add for van bins...Adrian Steel I think, that had a some cords wrapped like this hanging in the van. I need a how to! Jeff
*Scott, I use blue's method. I worked with a fire fighter once and he also called them firemans' loops.He also gave me some sage advice about cords and hoses, " If you ever fall out of an airplane, grab hold of an extention cord or garden hose. It will hang on something befor you hit the ground!"I use old boot strings with the ends tied together to make a loop. Loop the sting around the coiled cord and back through itself. It cinches the cord and leaves you a hanging loop. Boot stings are cheaper tha velcro.
*Jeff, the problem with daisy chaining is the chain ends up about 6 or 8 ft long with a 100 or 150 ft. worth of hose/rope. Where do you store it in your van/truck where it's not in the way?? Never even considered learning for this reason. Space is such a premium in my rig I need all I can get.
*What it sounds like he's doing (i.e. guessing mode on) is what I've heard called a barrel flake or a fisherman's flake: a series of figure 8's layed one on top of the other with about 10' offset each time. In theory, so long as you don't cross the ends, it will flake out with a toss. If you want to try something else that looks awful, but works: in the 80's there was a new trend towards stuff-bags for rope handling. When you're rock climbing, rope management is more than half the battle; rather than trying to coil and uncoil ropes all the time, it was discovered that a rope 'stuffed' into a bag almost never tangled so long doesn't move around much while in the bag - a log hard look at this some time bag convinced me that this is a version of the the barrel flake
*Along the lines of "stuffing", if you water ski you know it doesn't matter what you do with the rope when you pull it in, as long as the end doesn't "cross" anything -- usually the handle is just left hanging over the side. "Daisy chains" work well, but seem a little time consuming and put a lot of strain on the cord.Try this. Bring the two plug ends together, hold them, and then pitch the rest away from you. With the cord lying flat (no kinks or loops) and stretched out away from you, but doubled, let the ends hand "long" and start coiling the cable in long loops. The ends must hang a good 8-12" below the bottom of the loops. When you get about to the end, make a couple of short loops around the middle of the coils (toward the upper end actually), bringing the free end up through the middle. You now have a loop to hang the cord with, and the bundle is pulled tight when you hang it up. When you're ready to work, hold the plug ends, unwrap your holding loops (about the middle) and just pitch the cord away from you. You're left holding the two ends (which is what you want) and your cord is stretched out kink free.
*Cool, Crusty--think i'll get rid of the 3' crochet hook i've been using...
*The last time I flew, the stewardess giving the safety talk before the flight said that if we fell out of the plane to grab an extension cord or garden hose.
*Nice tip Dave! I've always wondered what to do with the old boot strings.OOPs, now that I'm wearing red wings, I never have any old boot strings....Oh well...blue
*Don't send Emails - the "10'" means ten degrees of retational offset, not ten feet; sorry if it was confusing !
*in response to how to store daisy - chained cords just fold the daisy chain ( once or twice depending on the length of the cork ) then hang, or lay flat on a shelf.as far as how to do it you take the plug and receptical ends and hold them together then pull the cord through your hands until you get to the end of the cord ( imagen folding the cord in half ) , then you tie a square knot in the cord about 8 inches fron the end, you will now have a loop at the end of the cord. put your hand through the loop and grab the cord and pull a loop through the end loop, now you have another loop, put your hand through the loop and grab the cord, pulling it through the loop, do this over and over until you reach the end of the cord. if you do this right you will have a daisy chain and not a bunch of square knots ( i have had new help do this and it is not pleasant). when you reach the end of the cord pull the reciptical and plug through the last loop to lock the chain. the nice thing about this is now the cord is very manageable and you can throw it up to someone or vice versa without it coming unraveled, to string it out just undo the very end ( plug and reciptical end ) hold on to them and shake. the cord will unravel like a sweater, no need to undo the whole thing if you only need a few feet of cord and after doing this a few times the cord will get a " memory " so it will easily take the chain shape. I like to use loops about 6 - 8 inches across, works well and have not had any problems with cords becoming worn or such, however i recomend this only for heavy gauge cords as the bending repeadly of light gauge cords probably will cut their life substantially.
*You don't need the knot. Just hold the receptacle and plug both, in one hand. Loop the cord over itself once. Reach through that loop, grab the cord, pull through until you have another loop about 10 inches in size. reach through that loop and grab the cord to make the next loop, etc.Just fold the chained cord a couple times and hang it anywhere that you would hang the round rolled cord.
*My experience tells me that flat cords get kinked easier than round cords. My air hoses get coiled in round loops and I carefully twist the end so that I don't get eights in the loops.In the past few years more arborists are using rope bags for rope storage. Put one end of the rope in the bottom and then pile the rope in, hand over hand. Do not try to be careful or stack the rope. It will come out without snaggling. This is called faking, flaking or piddling the rope into a container. Most of my climbing ropes and some of my extension cords are put into square five gallon buckets that kitty litter comes in. IF space is critical, cut the bucket down to size or nest them together. If you want to keep some of the extension cord in the bucket, drill a hole in the side an inch or so up from the bottom. Thread the male end of the cord out of the hole. Place the cucket near the outlet and pull out enough cord to plug in. Pull the female end out of the top and go to work.Tom the Tree Guy
*Do you use kernmantle ropes and regular rock-climbing gear ?
*Most of the ropes that we use are made specifically for tree work.. To ascend tall trees I set a static line. When I ascend I use single ropetechniquess modified from ones developed byavers. A lot of the hardware that we use with ropes comes from mountaineering or other vertical professions. Carbineshave been standard for many years. Most climbers will use ascenders to move up the rope. Some climbers use figure eights to descend but I will not allow them on my crew. If we are gong to descend we use racks to eliminate rope ccockles. Tom the Tree Guy
*As someone mentioned briefly, by good quality cords 12 gauge min., and you wont have any problems coiling them. And you power tools will be very happy.David
*tom... just curious...did you use the spell checker ?kind of an informal poll i keep .....
*Most of the ropes that we use are made specifically for tree work. To ascend tall trees I set a static line. When I ascend I use single rope techniques modified from ones developed by avers. A lot of the hardware that we use with ropes comes from mountaineering or other vertical professions. Carabineers have been standard for many years. Most climbers will use ascenders to move up the rope. Some climbers use figure eights to descend but I will not allow them on my crew. If we are going to descend we use racks to eliminate rope cockles. Tom the Tree Guy
*With air hose, we sometimes coil them into about a 2' loop and weave the last few feet in and out of the loop around the circle to hold the coils in place and then snap the quick connects together at the ends. This keeps the coils from getting tangled up with other hoses in the same pile. You can stack these together and never have a group tangle. Then sometimes we just throw everything in a big pile and fight it out later. Depends on how big a hurray we're in.Ed. Williams
*tom... just as i thot.... ain't that sill shucker somtin else.... 'n the best thing is... andy paid extra fer dat feature....hah, hah, hah
*I learned in the fire service to cable coil air supply lines so they could be extended out from a coil by pulling on one end and be twist free. This works great for extension cords, garden hoses, etc.It takes a little practice to get it right but I think anyone can learn. It's nothing more than coiling every other coil with a opposite twist.
*Bob has the right idea. In the movie business, we have to coil everything from shielded microphone cables to 4/0 welding cable. Air hose and shielded cable have a tendency to form loops when you twist them, because they have woven spirals going in both directions just under the surface. Try this: clamp a piece of hose two or three feet from one end, so that it can't twist. Stretch that short section out straight, and then try to twist it 180 degrees around its axis, letting the end in your hand move towards the clamp as you twist. You should form one loop, just like you would when coiling the hose. It turns out that 180 degrees of twist is what you put into the line every time you make a loop in coiling something. If you coil twisting the same way every time, if you make x many loops, you've put half that many full twists into the line, and it'll loop up and tangle when you use it again. So what you need to do is twist first one way, then the other. This is called over/under coiling.Suppose you hold the coils in your left hand, and coil with your right. You make the "over" loop by twisting a half turn counterclockwise, and your arm stays over the line as you add it to the coil. Then for the "under" loop, you twist a half turn clockwise, and your hand passes under the new loop as you add it to the coil. Pictures would help, and video would help even more. ;-)The result of all this is that the loops in each pair cancel out each other's twist, and the line lies flat when you lay it out again, so actors don't trip over it.Of course, this will still screw up if one end gets passed through the coil, and you end up with a mess of knots. The final coils have to be tightly secured, and for this purpose you need a cable tie. The cable tie is a piece of cordage of the appropriate size, anything from shoelaces for a microphone cable up to 3/8 sash cord on a 50' length of 4/0. The tie always goes within a few inches of the male end to keep it out of the way, and it's long enough to go twice around the coil so that it can be tied up tight with a slipped reef knot. Some people clove hitch them to the line, but I prefer a constrictor knot. They hold better, and when the tie needs to be replaced, you can just cut thru the bridge without damaging the cable. The other way of coiling with the twists cancelled out is figure eight. This is primarily useful when you have to pay the line out quickly without tangling, like when the boom guy has to chase after a dolly shot. As long as you're pulling roughly perpendicular to the long axis of the "8", the center crossings keep the line from snagging on itself. This is also done for tethered multi-camera television, like soap operas and TV news.BTW, back in the days of film editing, there was a machine called the Moviola that instead of a takeup reel, just let the film pile up in a bag. It worked fine. ;-)-- J.S.
*Well thanks John and Bob. I will re-learn how to roll my cords up tomorrow!blue
*Mike, the spell checker that I use is the American Collegiate Dictionary, and yup, I paid extra for it. The nice thing is that it gives me the option of respelling words, unlike, near as I can tell, the miserable spell checker on Breaktime. FWIW, I'm with you on coiling cords and hoses in big loops. Why though, when I hook up even a nicely-coiled air hose to my compressor, does it squirm around and foul itself? (Anybody that picks up on that straight line owes me $5)Andy
*Okay John and Bob, I tried your method. It was hard! I really struggled. Rolling cords up is hard work!I managed to get my yellow jackets rolled up with out incident, other than it took some serious concentration-my hand just wants to coil it the same way. But my hoses seem to have developed a memory. Every time I'd give it the reverse coil, it would protest and coil itself into a figure eight.Am I doing it right, or is this a sign of a failed hose coiler?blue
*Well, Blue, I think you should do the honorable thing for the good of the country and just concede and leave the hose coiling up to your opponent(s). However, perhaps if you recounted the coils, they would come out right...
*As far as the tip on sewing velcro together, Panduit has a new line of cable ties out that are a ready made "bisexual velcro" the part number for this stuff is HLS-15-___ the last part being the color. they come in 15 ft rolls to cut to any length and are available in ten colors. almost any electrical supply house will carry it or be able to order it. I paid $13.74 for a roll. the stuff works great for any cords, hoses, power tools. I can't stop finding uses for this stuff. if I can add this try herehttp://www.panduitncg.com/ncg_cm/cab_inst_prods/product_info/hl.ASP
*Blue, if it's hard at first, you're probably doing it right.I'll be impressed if anybody can learn it from the written description. It's a difficult thing to teach in person one-on-one with the actual cable in hand.Cable and hose -- any flexible plastic or rubber material -- really does get a memory, and it can take some doing to re-train it. Years ago, I used to hang cables off the fire escape in the sun all day to get them straight and get the twist out. So, shake them out really well and keep trying. If it still wants to go into a figure eight on the reverse twist, you need to twist more around its axis to get it to make a single loop. Twisting one direction will make the figure eight twist up more, and the other direction will undo it.This is well worth the effort to learn, because it makes handling this kind of stuff so much easier in the long run.-- J.S.
*Blue:I'm with you as I can't get those nasty air hoses to help me either. It's always been a quandry to me and I recall a handyman friend say buy rubber. Yea right! I like the straightening procedures mentioned here. Tie one end to a tree/telephone pole/mailbox if you don't have a helper? I get sick and tired of messin' with 'dem airhoses and compressor and am anxiously awaiting for someone to come out with a cordless pin nailer. Is anything in the works? You guys follow more tool developments than I.
*Yeah, I keep hoping for cordless extension cords but no one has come out with one yet.
*ken, paslode makes a cordless pin nailer ( finish nailer ) and clipped head framing nailer. they run off butane and an electrical charge to run the cooling fan and ignite the fuel. i own both and love them. i also own conventional finish nailers and framers i use them for heavy repetive work, but for fast pick up jobs or punch list work they are the bee's knee's. the finish gun is 16g. they retail for about 500.00, but when you consider that you do not need a compressor, or hose for them the price is right.the big box has them as well as most tool supply houses.
*James:Thanks for your reply but I'm looking for one that shoots 18guage as it doesn't punch a hole as large in quarter round as others. 16g wouldn't work with some of the laminated qtr'd I've seen with laminate floors. The bigger the nail the more noticeable the hole is with laminate, as it tends to shatter a bit.
*Thanks, thought I'd have to go to S.F. to find ready made bi velcro.
*Calvin, ROFLAO
*Now here's an esoteric but highly important topic! years ago we had a diver working with us on some apartment buildings. He taught eveyon on our crew how to roll our cords and air hoses the way he rolls his diving hose. It's a figure eight that you can do with the hose or cord in your hand--instead of laying it on the ground.I always coil the cord into my left hand (for left-handed carpenters, I have NO advice). I grip the end of the cord in my left hand, the plug near my thumb and the cord trailing out past my palm. Then I grab the cord about two feet back with my right hand. Now here's the tricky part: I grab the cord with my palm down, then, while making the loop toward my left hand, I turn my right hand palm up--that makes the coil turn under. The next coil goes on normally, the following goes on turned under--once again, by grabbing the cord with my palm down and turning my palm up while I make the coil toward my left hand. My left hand just keeps opening to accept the next coil--as you always do. This way, one coil is coiled over, the next under, the next over. When stretching the cord out, you can throw the entire coil in the direction you desire (holding on to the bottom), or you can drop the coil (once again, on the bottom), and just pull cord from the top without it EVERY knotting.Boy, that was a long-winded one.Gary
*Gary,That's how I coil my extension cords also. I learned it from a audio visual technician while doing some trim work at a local TV station; however, I might add that when you go to throw the coil after it has been put away it's important to remember which end you started with, other wise you'll spend a bunch of time undoing knots.
*I think the thing I learned here from all of you is roll em myself and you guys roll yours. Homeowners, go find somethin else to do with my time. And a merry Christmas to all.
*Mongo, that is crocheting, a fiber craft that was originally a netmaking skill used by sailors on boats and ships, but is now considered only a female skill. I learned it from an electrician. Only he started in the middle so that you could pull whatever you needed and not have to undo the whole thing.
*Thanks for the feedback, GP.
*DON'T! TOUCH! MY! CORDS!!But if ya gotta, coil 'em with a half-twist of key lime wiped on the rim, Bombay Sapphire to the threads of that Mason jar, wave the (closed) bottle of vermouth at it, cap, shake gently, drop in one smoked oyster, a stringbean and two Spanish olives, take that drink in hand and go knot up your own ding-dang cords! Eye goht minne, 'kahy?....is 'kay...Joel K...wahss ma nim?...uhh...uhhh.."There are truths in drunkeness..." Schiller, the bloody sot...
*It is called daisy chaining your cords, works great, never a tangle
bump
bobl Volo, non valeo
Baloney detecter
Thanks fer the bump, Bobl.
You see the date?
SamT
Get a five gallon paint bucket.
Get a 4 inch toilet flange and cement a piece of 4 inch schedule 40 to it and screw it in the center of the bucket from the bottom.
Drill a hole in the bottom on the side of the bucket and run about 4 feet of the male end of the cord out through the hole.
Coil the rest of the 100 ft cord around the 4 inch pipe in a clockwise direction.
When you need to use the cord take the bucket near the the power source and plug it in.
Then grab the female end of the cord and go to where you are working.
When you are finished go back to the bucket and rewind the cord around the 4 inch pipe in a clockwise direction.
The cord will soon like this and will almost jump back into the bucket by itself.
Next time try pickig it up with air pressure still in the hose ,
unplug only when you reach the connector
it should stay flat next time you plug inadded
do the over under loop and it will not fight you
Edited 12/22/2005 5:00 pm ET by ELoewen
It is a crochet stitch, as far as I know. It works pretty well. We used to do it--only thing is that the chain is kind of cumbersome. I've had a lot of resistence from people not wanting to use it. Myabe it doesn't sound "manly" enough. Maybe rename it the "bob war" chain or something! ;-)
I told our new guy the other week he would get a "better result" if he ran the cord or hose out the full length before trying to coil it up. He thought I was being a smartazz but at least I don't have to fight his poorly coiled hoses in the morning.It's funny how something so simple can start a day off poorly.I'll never forget the new guy who coiled the 10 gauge 100 footer around his arm.Mike Smith sure got away with a lot in post 6!
"I'll never forget the new guy who coiled the 10 gauge 100 footer around his arm"
LOL!!!sound like my brother in law
"reels"
I've looked at those and found small print declaring that if using the cord while some card was still on the reel the amp caring capacity was greatly reduced, not good with tools that draw better than 10 amps.
if it's coiled up tight on a reel and plugged in ...
the cord can act as an electrical "coil" and generate enough heat to start a fire.
Jeff Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
Justin.
The only correct way to roll up my cord.
"My way."
There's your quote.
There is nothing that scares me more than to see the helpful homowner "help" me by picking up my cords. It seems even if they've watched me, the next time I throw out that cord I've got to untangle it. So they've gotten used to " uh no thanks, I'll get that".A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
*
Every time I take my time rolling my cords around my arm with special loving care. I end up either tying them with the ever popular knot in the middle, or I just leave it round tying it with a piece of wire. It doesn't matter how there wrapped I still have to fight a knot when I unravel the cords. I ask all you professional craftsmen what is the best technique for wrapping and storing cords. worked with a electrician for one day,when he brought out his cords they looked like a big rats nest,then by grabbing one end of a cord he threw the whole mess in the air,when it landed there wasn't a tangle,or a knot to be found. In amazement I pleaded for this great secret with no luck. Any ideas,suggestions,or comments thanks
Plug to receptical then fireman's loops with the double lines. A tie line on the cord, hang on hook in truck and you're good to go. Takes half the time.
bumpJustin Fink - FHB Editorial
Your Friendly Neighborhood Moderator
I use the "figure 8" method, but in a different way. The first time, you need to make sure the cord (hose, rope) isn't twisted, so lay it out straight. Grab one end in one hand, with the other, make your first loop into the stationary hand. Now the tricky part. Make a second loop, but twist it in the opposite direction. Continue alternating until it's all coiled. Attach the ends however you like, velcro, twine, etc. If you lay this coil on the ground with the proper end on top, you can simply pull it, it will unroll gracefully with no kinks or "a**holes". If the coil is too heavy or large to hold in one hand, do it on the ground.Bill
One thing I do is to roll from the female end to the male end. Then I can plug the cord in and un-roll to where I am working. It puts the slack on the working end.
To coil your extension cords in a single circle (not the easy figure-8), that hangs on a spike with no twisting, take these steps:.....Lay out the new (or totally screwed-up) cord full length, and wrestle it to flat, straight and true......Grab either end in your left hand with the business end pointing down and make the loop size you like, counterclockwise around your left forearm, grabbing the loop into your left fist with the end; you're gripping the whole first loop......Now, the technique: Coil a second loop around your arm, but only after whipping the next ten feet of wire up in the air while twisting it away from you about one full circle, again counterclockwise. It's a motion of your right hand like knocking on a table, and it takes about two grab-twists before each loop around your left arm. The whips and twists will wobble along the cord to at least 30 feet away, like a hysterical snake. (if you're a leftie, reverse all this) .....Now you notice that the second loop is not fighting you and twisting as usual. Do the second and more loops until your hand is full; then grip the further loops in your elbow. Do the same roll-flip-twist for about another 15 loops for a 50-footer. The whole coil should now be behaving nicely. Tie a cord around the coil, and plug male into female. Hang or stow the cord......Next time you wind up, the cord will have a memory-set from the first time, and will cooperate with you more willingly. The memory-set will be stronger if you let the cord stay wavy while using it, without untwisting to make it lie flat......If (after the first coil-up) the cord still has some kinks from new packaging or bad handling, take the tied-up coil to a sink and spray or dunk it in hot water for two minutes. The kinks will relax, and upon cooling the cord will adopt the coil shape you gave it.Edited 3/22/2007 12:06 pm ET by yankeedam
Edited 3/22/2007 12:32 pm ET by yankeedam