Not sure what it is, but does anyone have issues with breaking countersink drill bits? Granted they are the ones that you can buy at HD, and I can’t even tell you the brand, but maybe they’re brittle or something. Can’t remember if they were cheap.
Recommendations? I’ll be placing an order with Rockler in the near future, might try their bits.
PJ
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Replies
Try W.L. Fuller bits from Jamestown Distributors at http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/to;ID;,Tools,Drill.Bits...Drivers, and look at Fuller's countersinks, counterbores, and plug cutters.
Gary
gwwoodworking.com
I've been looking for some good countersink bits myself.
Damned if I get half a dozen drilled before the pilot bit snaps.
I wouldn't even mind if replacements were readily available.
J. D. Reynolds
Home Improvements
are you talking about a counter bore? if so J&L industrial supply sells them and replaceable pilots
how fast are you running your drill? the bit will work better when you run them slow and will not chatter.
Bite the bullet and get a set of Fuller bits. They are tapered twist drills with adjustable 3/8" counter bores. A set comes with 5 bits, a collar stop and a matching plug cutter. The set runs about $35 or so. I've had the same set for about 20 yrs, and they've drilled a lot of holes with no problems.
I've been using one from Dewalt that has the tapered drill bit and the countersink (3/8") for the head then slides along the bit and is held in place with a couple of set screws. They are spendy at $15-$20, but well worth it, at least for what I use them for.
Having said that, I'm usually careful to not twist the drill side to side while drilling, since I've also broken many of the typical countersink drill bits. I'm going to break the Dewalt, it just hasn't happened yet in the last two years.
Cheers,
Don
Beer was created so carpenters wouldn't rule the world.
if you can find a local dewalt repair center they tend to have the counter sink bits (with the hex shaft) real cheep, I think I picked them up at 1.50 a pop, I destroyed a whole stack of them while doing an ipe deck. I had to tune up the countersink part with a file too.
I think I have three of them in different boxes needing replacement. Think I'll try the Lee Valley type for a while. Like Paul said, good timely topic.
Don K.
EJG Homes Renovations - New Construction - Rentals
Just received my personal favorite countersink today from Lee Valley-leevalley.com.
Lee Valley is a mail order woodworking tool outlet from Canada. Good quality, fast shipping,120 day trial or money and shipping refunded so you can try new things with no risk.
Can't say enough good things about the countersink-tough as nails;I have never broken one in over 10 years.
I only use #8 so just order those for $19. each can.- the tapered bits are available separately;adjustable stop collar for depth of plug;also cuts a true 3/8" hole so it can be plugged with matching material with a 3/8" snug plug cutter.
Also testing a "drill & countersink system" that is a #8 countersink with a sleeve for bit driving that fits over the countersink. I had one before and sent it back after a test drive but I'm thinking my woodworking students might dig it as you need only 1 drill to rock and roll when countersinking and driving screws.
cheers,
silver
"I've been using one from Dewalt that has the tapered drill bit and the countersink (3/8") for the head then slides along the bit and is held in place with a couple of set screws. They are spendy at $15-$20, but well worth it, at least for what I use them for.
Having said that, I'm usually careful to not twist the drill side to side while drilling, since I've also broken many of the typical countersink drill bits. "
I drill most of my countershinks with a Unibit by Irwin. I use quick-change holders most of the time, but never found a quick-change countersink that was durable enough.
I end up running 3 cordless drills. One for counter sink, one for pilot and another to drive screws.
What timing... I've snapped three pilot bits already this morning. Two different brands.
Make that four... second to the last hole...frikking hard oak.
Edited 2/11/2006 1:54 pm ET by PaulBinCT
I'll be placing an order with Rockler
Give them a try I have the Rockler C-bit and other than tuning up the bit in the Drill Doc I haven't had any trouble with mine.
It has a 1/4 quick end and adjustable depth--
I do a lot of Maple and Cherry installs and I have had the same problem with the tapered bits so I use a straight bit 1/8 and the type 17 screws from Screw Products Inc out west and have yet to break a screw or strip one.
With their bugle headed screw I don't need a real deep C-sink as the underside of the screw head has some flutes that finish the bore to leave the head just under the surface.
Hope this helps.
Mike
" I reject your reality and substitute my own"
Adam Savage---Mythbusters
Countersinks are a blessing and a bit , no pun, of a curse for all of us at one time or another. The blessing is they work so well for the purpose employed and the curse is the drill breaks until we master the technique of NOT breaking it (it's AMAZING how hard this seems to do even for new/old pros. I still break one occasionally and always want to not to believe I've just done it......AGAIN, dangit! The ones I love the best, if there is one, are the Fuller style bits, tapered bits with the sink screwed on them.
Have seen the Rocklers advertised in a mag and couldn't remember the site name to look them up. They looked worth the view for comparison.
As a finishcarpenter and long experienced in the cabinetshop game, a standard in my bag/belt setup is a file. The one with two kinds of cuts and a handle self-incorporated into it. The fine (singlecut metal filing) side is for tuning these countersinks and it does wonders for getting a new "clean", unfrayed, countersink hole. They just get dull too fast, but they all do.....I have not tried the carbide type and that would worth the expense...if they work.
The other things it is for is for tuning up the edge of a 1 1/2" flexible putty-knife for scraping, as in cabinet-style scraping. Simply the handiest thing for scaping wood and glue from a surface right into the corners and leaving NO glue to sully a finish; no sanding needed.
I am now going to look up those Rocklers.......
Rockler.com is the name of the company--started around these parts a long time ago--I have their carbide c-sink bit and have use it weekly for more than a year now--I can tell the carbide needs sharpening so I might pick up one of those diamond files to tune up the edge--other wise it has been easy to work with.Glad the DW bought me a Drill Doc couple of years back--now I carry it in my job box--nothing worse than working a hardwood kitchen and struggling with dull tools.
Mike" I reject your reality and substitute my own"
Adam Savage---Mythbusters
Thanks Mike, Got the diamonds already and will invest in the carbides.....appreciate it.
Hey MIKE, Just went to their site and could not find the cabide countersinkers. Another question: I have never had any good luck with any other self-centering bits than true VIX BITS. All the others from whatever to Generals made in the USA and Tiawan have a spring that will stop working tension-wise within one da. The VIX are the only ones that hold their action for(almost)ever. Wondered about the Rocklers if you have experience with them.
Edited 2/12/2006 4:19 pm ET by zorrosdens
Go with the fuller set. I have 2 sets, they are awesome.
Youre totally right about learning how NOt to break countersinks, its an art in itself. The Fullers are very hard to break though. Ive never broken one myself and have had them for 5 years or so. Saying that I let a kid helping me use one once and he managed to break one first time!
Fullers are old favorites of mine, too. Used to be all I'd buy till moving to Greenville, SC and not finding Fullers easily. Have tried the dewalt "Fullers" and they work fine as well. Man, I loved to use that Fuller #5....was ALWAYS breaking it at one time or another...That's what happens with your favorite ones, insn't it?!!
Always wanted to "invest" in a carbide C-sink,and see what, maybe, I bean missing. Thanks, man.
Edited 2/15/2006 1:52 am ET by zorrosdens
I am not sure if they are in the online catalog--I know I picked mine up at the store--So go figure--As for the Vix type bits they carry I regretable have to turn you away from theirs--I have that set and I was disappointed :-(Picked up a set at a woodworkers show--Speedy Bit I think and I am much happier with them--I have the flyier I got with them out in the garage if you are interested in the exact outfit.I am going to stop by the store soon to pick up some blades so I am going to get one of those diamond cards to touch up my C-sink---I know people have spoke highly of Lee Valley stuff so you could check there. What grit of diamond card do you use to touch things up with--do you use yours on router bits?Mike" I reject your reality and substitute my own"
Adam Savage---Mythbusters
I don't do the picky, picky, pickyest of work that I loved and enjoyed doing when I was out in San Diego County. What I use it for now is tuning a job chisel when it needs it and my block plane. I try to get the time at home to do the REAL shapening jobs to my job and cabinet shop mortising chisels and the record block plane blades (Hock brand blades). My Lie-Nielsen planes hardly ever need much as their blades take just a keen edge and hold it a LONG time. What I use is the Red and sometimes the medium Blue when I need a bit more first....the red does a pretty good job on site. This is done without a angle jig, just by hand. I have a very fine ceramic stone for home final polishes when I do it with the guide for everything. Sorry to be so lengthy.
Edited 2/14/2006 8:34 pm ET by zorrosdens
That is just what I needed --the colors and all so I know what to get for the site touchups.Just as a side note about the Rockler bits--I stopped today to pick up things and in the interest of our conversation I took a look at the bits they carry now,I am happy to report that they don't carry the same kind I orginal had problems with--Thanks Rockler for getting better bits.So I formally retract my comments about the bits--they have changed the style so I am guessing manufactors also---I took some out of the pouch and looked them over and they are vastly different that what I had experience with.I do have the right to a lawyer during questioning? Right?Mike" I reject your reality and substitute my own"
Adam Savage---Mythbusters
I've used the Rockler 'vix' style bits and their countersink bits for a few years now and am pleased with them. The spring in the 'vix' type bit has stood up well. The countersink bits have broken, but ultimately only when I'm in 'hurry' and let the drill 'wander'. I usually have spare bits on hand and they are readily available through Rockler.Rockler has been very 'stand up'. Bought some hydraulic door lift kits and didn't realize 'til I got to Canada months later that one kit was missing 2 brackets. They came good for the brackets promptly.Let's not confuse the issue with facts!
Thanks for your input.
A carbide countersink is well worth the money. I use one made by Amana that I buy from Apex Saw in Reno NV. They make a very clean hole for plugging and bits are easy to change if they break. I even use an old chipped cb countersink for countersinking holes in hardibacker.