I am in the process of renovating an existing screened in porch and adding to it. The main reason is to create a garage space underneath. The original deck is 12×28. I am adding 8 feet to create a 20×28 deck. It will all be under roof and eventually be a 3 season room (I hope!).
I am planning on just screening it in until I can generate more funds for the 3 season panels. However, I do want the garage area to be dry. So, rather than use regular deck boards, I found a product called Ti-proboard. It is an extruded product that you put a mortar type base on. You can waterproof it and then tile it over. I initially thought it would cost about $1/sq. ft., but it turns out to be much more expensive than that.
Thus my question. I currently have good 1″ tongue and groove on the existing deck. Can I put 2 layers of 1/2″ pressure treated plywood down on the new deck framing and then pour a self leveling compound about 1/2 to 1″ thick for a base for some tile? I am guessing I need to put down a membrane to decouple the wood from the mortar base. Or should I bite the bullet and just spring for a more expensive decking alternative.
As always…Thanks!
Replies
The cheapest/most effective route may actually be to spring for the 3-season walls now and keep the floor dry. That said, you may be able to get by with ply, Ditra with sealed seams, then tile. Schluter also has some other alternatives for waterproof decking IIRC. You'll need to slope it since it'll need to drain.
Mike Hennessy
Pittsburgh, PA
Everything fits, until you put glue on it.
frank
stay away from any treated wood under tile, it is to wet and shrinks when it dries out causing crack problems. go over to the john bridge tile forum and you can read all the negatives about treated wood under tile.
you can ask questions and get good answers at john bridge tile forum
like mike said ditra/schluter will be your best bet for waterproofing under tile
good luck ............nicko
Thanks guys! I'll re-evaluate and re-price. I appreciate the input.Frank
I would agree with the post suggesting drying in now and saving money in the long run? Other wise you need to slope as mentioned, probably requiring ripped sleepers which will add height to your existing deck as well as the decking you put down.
If you ridge in the middle and slope 10' each way that technically should add 2 1/2'' to your height at 1/4'' per foot plus decking (I sometimes cheat to 1/8'' per foot if conditions allow which yours being covered may well allow).
There is a two part rubber compound that I can't think of a product name right now that is expensive, but compared to some of the other options may be the cheapest? The key to it last ing is prep, 1'' ACX, blocked seems and filled gaps, and dry surface with flashing all around. If I remember right, my guy likes 4'' under doors for plenty of flashing, but thats in very exposed conditions. We often then build decking with the reverse of the sleepers below to level it and raise it closer to the door threshold, but if you get downt to 1/8'' slope some people leave it as is with some tecture in the final coat....
Thanks Ryder. I am leaning toward the drying in and saving some bucks scenario too. It gets me closer to a finished/usable space faster. Then I can expand my flooring choices and shop around for a good deal.Frank