Want to build a shed,..1/2 building with 1/2 covered area. I am not sure how to attach the beam for the coverd portion to the build to achieve a continous soffet.
How does the beam attach to the corner post so that the soffet and fascia are continous around the entire shed
hip roof sitting on posts or steel columns on the right side
I am a trim man so framing is a little weak to me..but I am capable.
thanks for the help
Replies
Can't open that file type.
I was afraid of that.
Picture a standard 24 x 16 shed. one half of the shed (12)to the left would be building, the other side to the rifght (12)would be overhang sitting on posts.
how does the transition take place. Does the beam for the overhang section sit on top of the building overhang....of course not! The top plates have to be level. But how does one tie in to the corner post to achieve a soffet and fascia that stays level all around the building?
Can you reattach the pics in a different file?
bump
Yeah, the problem is perception. Since we can't get a visual, let's try words. You have a building to the left and essentially a porch to the right. Which way does the ridge run? Left to right, or front to back?If the former, I don't see a problem. The ridge pole should be supported by the walls of the building and by frame at the edge of the porch. That frame could be sort of "T" shape and support the entire roof at that end, or it could be a triangle on two support columns.If the latter, we're talking about a shed roof to the right. This would be supported by two posts and a beam.George Patterson
I'm not at all sure I understand what you are saying, but maybe my attempt at an answer will get you thinking along the righ path to an answer! It seems to me that you could look at the thing as one roof over two areas, one open and one enclosed. Think of building the roof Iin your mind) first, then putting the right supports under it to make the open structure and the enclosed structure.
Seems to me, that you need your rafters and "ceiling" joists (if it has joists), or trusses, ifthat's what you're using, sitting on a continuous plate. The plate could be in the form of one huge rectangle, or two smaller rectangles, one for each part (enclosed/not enclosed). If two rectangles, the not enclosed one could be fastened to the enclosed one at the wall between enclosed and not enclosed by using a ledger on the outside of the wall of the enclosed part.
In the enclosed part, the plate is supported by your stud walls; in the non-enclosed part, the plate would be supported by columns. That plate would have to be deeper (not just a double 2x4 plate) because the span between columns will be greater than the span between studs. Maybe that is your question? Make this "beam" like the plate on top of the stud walls, not a continuation of the sub-fascia. The top of the wall plate (enclosed part) and top of the "beam" (open part) will be at same level so your rafters/trusses land at the same level and it doesn't mess that up, but the bottom of the beam (plate) in the open part will be lower, so your support columns will be shorter than the wall studs in the enclosed part.
So, your roof structure sits on a rectangle that varies in thickness, and is supported inside by 2x4 studs and outside by 4x4 (4x6?) posts. The fascia is then more of a cosmetic thing to tie all the rafter tails together and is, of course level and continuous all the way around.
Hope I am even close to what you are describing! If not, maybe someone else can take a stab at it, or you can explain the problem again. let me know if I'm close!
Danno, exactly...if I want to come off say, 10 feet, I would need a 2x 10 probably and the thickness has to go down ward, not upward..'
If I did a gable roof, I could hide it.
Are you saying that you do not want to see the beam below the soffit cieling?
Doable, but darn tricky.If you can use your program to open that file, you can likely convert it to jpg format for us.Open it, then go file > save as> and in that dialoge box, under the file name, is a drop down thaat first reaads *.dds or whatever it is now.
Hit the down arrow and choose jpg or jpeg or even gif.
save that and repost.I have one program that only offers btmp as an alternative. I have to save as btmp, then open in another imaging program to convert to jpeg. You can post as a btmp and we can see it, but it is a much larger file for the same info.What is your program this is created in?
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lets try this...the options were the program file or "all others"
try my last post for the image..I hope it works.
Honestly, if the beam is exposed it would be ok. I am leaning now at cutting costs and just building the shed and attaching a ledger to the rafter tails, then coming off that with the cover. Not what I want to do but $$$$$ is talking to me.
The question still remains though: If I were to use my original idea, how does one attach the 2x10 beam to the main house. Do you slip it into the corner post so that it is flush with the outside and flush with the cap plate. Then double it up in the inside. Then wrap it in a siding or a 1x 12 for trim. I see how it has to be an extension of the building plate, but can't see the actual attachmentof the doubled up 2x10 beam and the building structure.
augh!!!!
I was able to open it up, but couldn't change it to a .jpg format very well so (I think) I re-drew what you were trying to do.
View Image
Edited 10/7/2007 11:02 am by Stuart
still nothing I can open.Try this - when you have the save as dialouge box, cchoose all others, and in the name spot, type the anme, then .jpg to over ride the native format. That works in some programs.Almost sounds from the verabl like you are thinking of using a subfascia to suport rafters. That would not work too well, IMOto support a beam, it just hangs in a beam pocket framed in thewall. Since this is at a corner, The corner studs would be short by that much. Think of the beam as a extra thick top plate.
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Once I figure out what it is you want to accomplish, I can probably do a frame open 3D CAD drawing to post how to do it
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I can now open his new formatted sketch and someone else posted a drawing, but neither of them shed (no pun intended) any light on the problem--I agree with you though, that he can just slide the beam in a beam pocket made by making the corner studs that much shorter (than the depth of the beam). Or, I suppose he could use hangars, or even put a post right at the corner.
Edit: Okay, thanks to RW, I see, I think, that the OP doesn't like the beam having to be sided? (since it's not being hidden in the soffit). Like I said earlier, the way around that would be to make walls taller and soffit deeper and soffit level. Then he'd have to frame a ladder at the hip and rest it on a beam that's not as deep as the beams that the other rafters rest on. (This smaller beam would be where the gable end wall plate would be in a gable roof.) Anyway, that's my shoot from the hip idea.
I suppose he could also use trusses and make a frame of two beams inset from the surface of the two enclosing walls and sitting on the top plate that they run perpendicular to, then he could put trusses on the open part that were shorter (peak to bottom chords, with bottom chord resting on beams) but with longer top chords extending as rafter tails to end up even with the tails on the enclosed part. But what a PITA just to hide the two beams, and I don't know how he'd frame the hip!
In re-reading what I wrote it isn't too clear--the beams would be closer together than the walls are in the enclosed part and they would be above the top plates on those walls so they would be within the finished underside (soffit) of the roof. The trusses on the open part would sit on these "rails" and have to have extended tails so match the rest of the roof.
Edited 10/7/2007 2:30 pm ET by Danno
Dont build a corner, build a double jack and the last stud will be the lead, face the other side with a 2x4 for that lead. If you have a frieze trim, make the beam 1 1/2" above the bottom of the frieze. That gives you a 1x4 on the bottom to conceal the bottom of the beam and 1x on the sides with a 3/4" reveal. Ad to the top of the beam to align with your plate on the closed in part.
I guess, with Piffin's help, I'm seeing that you didn't like that your beam would be seen below the soffit on the open part. You could make all of the walls (and posts) a little taller and the overhangs a little deeper and then the soffit would cover, wouldn't it? I guess I'm still not understanding why the soffits' inner ends don't just end at the beam where you tack your 'F'-mold material onto the beam and run your soffit panels into it. Who cares if you see the bottom few inches of the beams? Are your soffits level with the ground, or are they following the slope of the roof?
Maybe I'll se it when others post, or you can get the file in a readable format. Have only had one cup of coffee so far too!
I'll try this
Get Sketchup. Free.
While this isnt exactly detailed . . . 30 seconds and you get the idea, in jpeg.
Real trucks dont have sparkplugs
Is that what he is showing? No dimension there for a beaam at all
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yes that is it, except a hip roof and 12 inch soffet all around
this has become an obsession!
Congratulations on your newfound file production skill.now obsess this and see if it answers your Q. This is with a 6/12 hip roof and 12" overhang. It would leave about 4" of the bottom of that 4x10 beam exposed below the soffit to trim out.
To get it all hidden you would need a combination of a shorter beam, a steeper roof, and more overhang in some combination to make it happen.
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aragh - now look who can't get a file to stick!;)i'm getting an error message from Prospero - be right back-
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OK here we go
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nice progrm....evrything i needed is in the pic. The only thing missing is the recliner, side table and frosty pilsner glass filled with 16oz of Budweiser. I figure I am gonna need to relax after i build this thing.
Thanks alot for sticking with me through this.
PS..what is a lead 2x4 as shellbuilder suggested? I see the double jack, but I guess turned the other way so it opposes the beam. But the lead 2x4 puzzles me.
Thanks to you as well RW and everyone else.
Starting to sound like an acceptance speech at the grammys.
I'm not 100% sure what shell was saying about lead jacks.I drew trhat corner with three studs. The 12' wall is the one they are in. It has two jack studs under the beam creating the beam pocket, and one king stud running past the end of the beam to the top plate. Don't know how clearly that shows in the 3D
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The lead was just the returning stud to the side wall as the drawing showed, basically it's a corner. The cad renedering was a cool thing for you to see, not many places on earth where you get that kind of information.
Okee. . .
Pif - no, that was me and 30 seconds.
This I think is more what he's saying. And the answer is you've got all that roof to support, you have to support it on something. I don't know what, but I drew in what would be the dimension of a 3.5x11.5 LVL on this. And now you have your 12" soffit. Of course the end where it hits the wall needs to be on something too. Whether the LVL goes into the wall to grab support off a corner, or the corner comes out, naw, that'd look funkadelic.
Your OP I think was really asking how to do it, and that's how you do it. You cant hide them up unless you raise the whole roof enough to get that much clearance there directly above the top plate. Or you frame the whole soffit down, I guess. A wrapped beam on a shed or garage though, that wouldnt look bad necessarily. This sketch I just used a 4/12. DK what you're planning.
I think if the reason for having it up is you're going to park a car there, most cars you can park under 7', if you've got a big truck, heck, I think I'd just make the walls taller and be done with it.
Real trucks dont have sparkplugs