I have a situation where I have to terminate a return against a vaulted ceiling. The angle from the verticle plane is 132 dg. The angle from the horizontal plane is 48 dg. I cut on the flat @ 48dg and it lined up perfectly with the exception that in order to make it fit flush I have to cope the back side of the cm to make it fit . I came across this once before and was able to make one cut but I cant remember how I did it. I think what I did was to insert the cm into the saw at a 90dg angle, hold it in place and make the cut.[there were two of us doing this] . These situations are, what I believe to be , where an axulary fence comes in handy. I dont want to waste to much time on this one cut so any advice will be greatly appreciated.
Mike
Replies
something wrong with the angles. The diff should be 90, but it is 84
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I had a hard time measuring the angles because of obstructions that were there. Lets force it to 135 and 45 and go from there,ok.
Mike
I could be missing something but they seem right to me. They add to 180, which makes some sense if your using an angle finder.
What does this situation in my life ask of me?
Edited 1/2/2006 7:41 pm ET by trimcarp
He compares from verticle vs from horizontal.The diff between those two is 90° so subtracting one from the other should be 90°but the verticle is not important. He is running horizontal crown, the way I picture it, into a sloped cieling, not really a return, but he has to shave the back of the cut off, something I carry a block oplane for, simply because3 the SR is never going to be perfect. Something to expect - niot soemthing to try for perfection mathematiclly on the saw, IMO
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
I know what you are saying and you are right. If you use an angle finder and it says 48 on the first and 132 on the second, the second number is really 132-90=42. I was just thinking in my head that it made sense because I just do the math in my head, kind of like the "90" on a miter saw is really "0". What does this situation in my life ask of me?
You are both right. What I am trying to do is take a piece of cm that runs from the front of a cabinet along the side and terminates against a small section of a cathedral ceiling that has a rise of about 45dg. Where it hits the cathedral ceiling is a straight on but joint but as the ceiling rises at 45dg it is a little more complicated. If the wall were higher it would be a clean 90dg cut. As I said I did this once before and after figuring out how to do it, which took some time because I had several of these to do, one cut on the CMS did it for a perfect fit. However I have forgotten and dont want to waste a lot of time for one cut. In retrospect I wish I had made some notes. There were two of us and if I remember correctly we inserted the cm directly into the saw at a 90dg angle, set the miter and or bevel accordingly . One held and the other cut. With an auxiliary fence one person can do this alone. Hope I made it a bit more clear. All the angles are relative no matter what they are.
Mike
It has been a while since I have done what you are talking about so....Basically (If you cut crown in place with the table of the saw = the ceiling and the fence = the wall) you just use the bevel to cut that angle. If you set the angle finder on the cabinet top (so it is horizontal) that is your angle to set the bevel to. Oh yeah....test it on scrap first. What does this situation in my life ask of me?
If I understand you correctly you still cut upside down and backwards with the mitre at 90 and the bevel at the rise of the ceiling? The other alternative would be to place the cm in the upright position and use the appropiate bevel angle?
Mike
Place it normally, miter at 90, bevel at the angle of the ceiling. If you look at it in place it will make sense. Use a scrap it test the cut.What does this situation in my life ask of me?
I don't understand your post. My guess when you start talking about a vaulted ceiling is you will need to use the bevel on the saw (if you cut it in place) instead of the miter.
What does this situation in my life ask of me?
Suggest you purchase Gary Katz' excellent DVD "Mastering Crown Molding".
Katz, a FHB/JLC contributor, produced two high-quality disks chock-full of excellent practical advice on fundamentals and advanced techniques, including how to transition from the vertical to the horizontal plane in a cathedral ceiling.
Check out GaryMKatz.com
http://www.costofwar.com/