Any suggestions for cutting crown moulding that has a base strip attached to it?
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What do you mean by base strip?
the base strip is 3/4" X 1 1/2" and fastened to the bottom edge of the crown. It is fastened thru to the top of the wall cabs attaching the crown to the wall cabs
That's what I thought, but wanted to make sure.
I'm not sure of the capacity of your saw, but mine can still cut it upside down and backwards.
I'll give it a try.
People really freak out when they watch me cut it standing up... on a 12" saw.
Old habit. I found I could always get the cut right since it was easier to visualize.
L
GardenStructure.com~Build for the Art of it!
People really freak out when they watch me cut it standing up... on a 12" saw.
Do you think the rest of us cut it sitting down? :-)
I also prefer to cut it on a jig set to the spring angle (I assume that's what you mean by "standing up").
-Don
Yeah... writing is easy--editing so people understand your drift is tough.
I use the back fence for alignment. So, the crown is standing up (in same orientation) as it will be on the wall. So long as the moulding isn't too large for your saw it works great.
I also cope everything.... Using the sight line method of determining which side of the joints get coped. Circa 1920's prior to FH forgetting those lessons. ;o)
LGardenStructure.com~Build for the Art of it!
I cut most crown "Upside-down & Backwards...but with this stuff I'm with Lawrence.
I often attach this kind of crown to long runs of wall cabinets before I hang them. I project the crown out past the doors and use Kreg 1-1/4" pocket hole screws (no pockets--just use their screws) to screw the crown to the top of the faceframe or cabinet box on frameless cabinets.
forgot to add...watch out for those dern staples that hold those pieces together. Really short pieces may not have any staples and will fall apart & need to be refastened.