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We want to remodel a third bathroom by replacing a fiberglass shower unit with a Japanese style soaking tub (i.e. much deeper than regular baths, and no whirlpool jets). We will retain the shower function with a hand held shower. We would have to tear out 1 -2 door frames in the house to get a pre-cast fiberglass style tub into place. That makes us consider having a tiled tub built in place instead.
Does anyone out there know about tiled tubs? We’re interested in learning about maintenance of tile/grout and possible leakage or other trouble spots with tiled baths. Any advice or referrals?
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I do Maintenance in a apartment complex where I've had to replace alot of the tile walls.One of the most common problems I've come across is plumbing leaks. Any water leaks at all will decay the shsheet rockehind the tile wall and cause it to cave in. Also Make sure everything is caulked. Tile edges, along tube, spout, and handle.I've worked with both tile and fiberglass. Tile gives you more room, looks better, and can be repaired easier.Hope this help you
*Concrete board will be your friend in this application; however, check with your tile supplier for exact instructions for the tile application. A type 1 adhesive should be used if you dont use thinset.
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Concrete board can be a good substrate for you tile but in the case of a tub, you need a completely waterproof barrier. Though I have never built a tile tub myself, I imagine that the principles are not too different from a shower base. These are made with a two piece drain and a shower pan of a material like CPE (chlorinated polyethylene)This pan is covered by a mortar bed and then tile. I recommend that you read Michael Byrne's book "Setting Ceramic Tile" which can give you a detailed description of this system as well as general tile and substrate information.
*Tile bath tubs present no special problems, but do require attention to detail. Don't think about backer board below the level of the flood rim. You will need a waterproof barrier. A vinyl or cpe liner is fine for this but must not be penetrated below the flood rim. The drain should be plugged and the pan flood tested. You will probably be required to do this for inspection. You can bend expanded metal lath into place without nails. Floating the floor will lock the bottom of the vertical lath into place, then you can float the walls. Spring sticks are also useful in holding the lath flat until the mud dries. If you are going to float the tub itself, I see very little benefit for using backer board on the walls. You might as well float the whole thing. If you have never done a project like this, proceed very carefully or consider hiring a professional.
*Do as others have mentioned...treat it as if it were a very deep shower pan.
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We want to remodel a third bathroom by replacing a fiberglass shower unit with a Japanese style soaking tub (i.e. much deeper than regular baths, and no whirlpool jets). We will retain the shower function with a hand held shower. We would have to tear out 1 -2 door frames in the house to get a pre-cast fiberglass style tub into place. That makes us consider having a tiled tub built in place instead.
Does anyone out there know about tiled tubs? We’re interested in learning about maintenance of tile/grout and possible leakage or other trouble spots with tiled baths. Any advice or referrals?