Novice tilesetter question here:
If one were planning a ceramic floor tile mosaic design, is there a way to cut curves in ceramic tile without the straight cut and nippers process? Thanks
Novice tilesetter question here:
If one were planning a ceramic floor tile mosaic design, is there a way to cut curves in ceramic tile without the straight cut and nippers process? Thanks
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Replies
I cut curves with a wet saw and diamond blade. Enough straight cuts gets a good curve. I've seen diamond blades that would fit a jigsaw, too. I've never gotten the hang of the nippers. Prefer saws.
Far from being Michael Byrne, but what I do is make a series of relief cuts close to the line. Then clean up with tile nippers and a grinder. Can also use the grinder free hand with a diamond blade. When using the nippers it helps to score the curve first with one of those little carbide scoring knives that are supposed to make Hardi backer be a "score and snap" product. Yeah right.
I've had good results using a glass cutter either freehand or against a template, making many relief cuts with the wet saw, nipping with the nipper and finishing up with a stone. The initial scoring provides a relief stop so a little heavy-handed nipping won't snap the tile on what should have been the last nip.
There are a half-dozen ways, all a PITA. Probably best is a wet jigsaw setup with an abrasive blade, but you can do the same with a hacksaw and an abrasive hacksaw blade if your arms and temper hold out. You can also grind or you can use a RotoZip with a carbide blade.
Attention Fellow Tool Junkies:
Page 36, FHB #161, March, "Tools & Materials
For ONLY $1,400 you too can cut curves like a professional.
I saw that one ...
trying to justify it ....
it'd be nice ever now and then.
I make most of my curved and add cuts with a new diamond blade in my 4" grinder ...
if it's a real shallow curve ... then I just use the wet saw.
I have 2 grinders each with a diamond blade ...
a "big" Milwaukee 4.5" that's used mostly for the tougher stuff ...
and a "little" Makita 4" that's real comfortable ... I'm even comfortable to usually cut one handed .... and that's saved for the more delicate stuff.
Depending on the tile ... with a very light freehand score cut first .. then a coupla medium deep cuts .. angled slightly under the score cut ... undercut ... I can usually end up with a suitable exposed edge .. especially after a light pass with the dressing stone.
JeffBuck Construction Pittsburgh,PA
Artistry in Carpentry
In the stained glass world there is this saw http://www.geminisaw.com/tile.php?page=tshaper
Never underestimate your ability to overestimate your ability
Edited 3/3/2004 6:10:32 PM ET by Spudwise
Diamond bandsaw. Available from stained glass suppliers.
An abrasive waterjet cutter does a real nice job and can be programmed from your computer. I think they have come down below $100,000 now.
I do it pretty much the same as Jeff Buck described, with one exception, I have a diamond blade that attaches to my roto zip grinder attachment. The blade is much thinner than blades typically used on angle grinders which allows you to make a little cleaner cut on radius.
tHE cheapest, easiest (no need for that 100000 saw!), is, get out you drywall circle cutter and change the blade to a diamond( wife's ring?), set the radius, and affix it to your pet wabbitt ( better , faster than a gerbil), hang a piece of lettuce (I've found that wabbitts like iceburg, not chicory, or romaine) in front of the wabbitts nose, and let 'er rip. Relax, get a brewski and let the varmint do da work.
I was hoping someone sometime had gotten creative somewhere and somehow discovered a plasmacutter worked on ceramic floor tile.
Wouldn't that be something.
Plasma cutter would be cool or a cheaper alternative is to invest in a hydro cutter.
This is the theory: since they use water to cut things now a days I've been wondering how many beers,(maybe an Irish dark variety, more organics), would a guy have to drink and how long would he have to wait for the need to, I mean pressure to build up to be one's own portable hydro cutter. You would need to use a tourniquet type of pressure control. This might allow one to drink more and wait longer.
Of course you should have medical supervision at first. And with all that pressure you may need an assistant to hold that sucker and control it's aim. I suggest involving a local firefighter, female of course, they have experience with hoses.
Best I've been able to do is a 85 second stream. I haven't been able to get a willing assistant to help me control the direction of the stream. So far I've cut butter, I'm currently working on a rice cake, I'll be going after cardboard next. But I gotta tell you at the higher pressures I've noticed almost a euphoric drug like response at the moment I turn the tourniquet. For the record it took one case of an Irish red beer and a four hour wait for the butter cut to work.
I'll keep you informed of my efforts. At the moment I'm into my second case of mead and I'm into my fifth hour. Wish me luck with the rice cake.
Bob
Sounds like this is one time you don't want to have yer cake and eat it too.
You guys are getting altogether too much sunshine down there in okieville to be whiling away the precious morning hours with volumes of mead.
That is unless you're out on Skiatook Lake and into a school of hybrid bass, pecking away on a wireless laptop.
Actually, I am wondering if a plasma cutter would heat the floor tile up too much to a brittle state when cutting if it might be possible to use a plasmacutter in such a way.
Anyone foresee problem areas if an attempt were made?
I'm virtually certain the thermal expansion will crack the tile. It could shatter and throw shards in your face.
Last time I checked, plasma cutters only work if the object being cut is electrically conductive. If you're working with stainless steel or copper tiles, that would be just the ticket.
Since you're specifying a not yet invented tool, something that works like a plasma cutter but will do ceramic tile, just add no overheating to the requirements.
Way back when......... 45 years maybe....... our dentist had an ultrasonic "drill". I think I remember the business end being rectangular and the "drilling" was done with a very fine abrasive/water mixture. Not quite up there with the common sandblaster but along the same line.
Anyone think this technique would work on tile for intricate cuts?