I’ve ordered the clear cedar porch column posts, and need to slot a deep narrow mortise into the bottom ends, to fit over the custom anchors being made.
The posts are 4x4s, the slots should be 5/16 x 2-1/8 x 3-1/2 deep. See the attached.
What would you use to whack these out cleanly and quickly? I need to work horizontally, as these posts are between 7 and 9 feet long.
BTW, I asked this over at Knots, but they sent me here.
Replies
Gene,
I'd get a plunge router w/a 5/16 bit (or 3/8 to give you wiggle room?) and plunge as deep as I could, then finish w/spade bit and mortise chisel.
are you then bolting from side to side so to speak?
You COULD bandsaw the post in half, rout the recess with a hinge morticing bit and reglue it together.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"Sell your cleverness, Purchase Bewilderment"...Rumi
Gotta think timber-frame technique here. 5/16" drill bit, drill to depth of slot, clean out with 5/16" or 1/4" mortise chisel, pare to lines. Keep tools sharp, plumb and square to slot sides. Cedar should be easy. Keep tools sharp.
How many you gotta do? I'd think each could be done in about half an hour or less. Set 'em up on horses so that the post is at waist level or just above, clamp them to the horses. Unclamp and flip as necessary. Make sure your tools are sharp.
a drill.
not even sure I'd worry about getting it squared of inside.
nothing wrong with a nice tight fit?
metal bracket? Just shove her in.
bigger hammer ... that sorta thing.
Jeff
Buck Construction
Artistry in Carpentry
Pgh, PA
bigger hammmer= split post too.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"Sell your cleverness, Purchase Bewilderment"...Rumi
well I kinda figured we'd have half a brain and drill the right size hole so that doesn't happen.
How'd I know someone was gonna say that?
anyways ... me ... I'd drill it ... and not square it ....
and not split it. But maybe that's just me?
Jeff
edit to say I'd probably even leave room for the expoy!
Buck Construction
Artistry in Carpentry
Pgh, PA
Edited 3/31/2005 7:55 pm ET by Jeff J. Buck
My delta hollow chisel mortiser is portable enough to make that slot dead on if need be. I doubt you need such tolerances.
You could cut a 1/2" or better slot then tighten it up to 5/16ths with varying thicknesses of plywood, lexan, whatever....
Well, if it was me I'd figure out a different scheme (eg, cut slots with bandsaw and then glue in pieces to fill the slot ends), but the mortising jig turned on its side seems like the best approach to do exactly what you want.
See what others here say about this, but depending on how the posts will be secured to the anchors (if at all) could you just cut slots with a saw? Would end up looking like the sticks in a Tinkertoy set, if you've ever seen those--or like the heads of regular screws. Then would have to plug the kerf that sticks out beyond (each side of) the anchor (which may be more trouble than using other methods discussed before mine!).
Buy a 10" circular saw and make a notch 5/16" wide by 3-1/2" deep and 3-1/2" long. The saw table would ride on the end grain of the post.
Find some stock that matches grain and color and cut pieces 5/16"x5/8"x3-1/2". Glue the strips back in and you're good.
Jon Blakemore
the #46318 would just about be deep enough, you could chop the rest
http://www.toolstoday.com/displaytools.asp?num=0&pdescription=Solid+Carbide+Spiral+Flute+Plunge%2D2+Flute%2DUpcut
being that it's cedar you could cut at that great a distance safely,
Got just a few to do? Any or the drill/chisel methods will work. Got a whole bunch? Find someone with a chain mortiser or an oscillating knife mortiser and take it to them. A shop that does high-end custom doors will usually have a good mortiser.
Custom anchors? Pipe would be nice, two would stop any twisting.
Drill out the slot for a slightly untight fit on the custom anchor. (You'll need some play to level/ set the post) Dump some water into the slot before squeezing in some epoxy. Insert, and let the epoxy set.
Know anyone with a Shopsmith? Utilize it as a horizontal boring machine and then chisel the rest. Relatively easy to set up.
You might try a mortising attachment on the horizontal bore... never tried it... but it may work... maybe... perhaps...
My old boss was a big fan of chainsaws. Plunge the tip right on in.
ha,
and I was justing going to post 'strap a chainsaw to a tranny jack'.
Why-for custom anchors?
These posts sitting on wood or stone?
Chain Mortiser
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Chain mortisers cut 1.5" mortises. At least the ones in the timberframe shop I work at. We'd do it with a chain saw on a plunge jig.
This is really easy; the construction guys are making it too complicated.
All you need is a 5/16" bradpoint drill bit, a plain chisel (a mortising chisel would make it easier, but only because the blade is longer), and a vacuum cleaner.
If you only have a few to do, you could mark the location with a combo square; if you have more, make a simple jig (out of 1/4" ply the same size as the post with a cutout positioned exactly where you want the mortise to be. Hold the jig against the bottom of the post, and mark the mortise with a Sharpie.
Measure off 3 3/4" (for a mortise that is 3 1/2" deep) on your bradpoint bit. If the bit you have is not long enough, get a longer one from any place that sells tools to cabinet makers (they range up to 12")
Drill a series of overlapping holes (keep your drill straight with the post), and clean up with the chisel.
Use the vacuum to clean out the debris from the mortise.
Keep one of the custom anchors handy to test your fit.
The first post will take maybe 15 minutes, and the rest maybe 5 minutes each.
Nikki,
The construction guys didn't make this complicated
the original poster did
by not figuring out how he was gonna attach his posts BEFORE he went and ordered brackets
Prior Planning Prevents Piss Poor Performance Pinhead
;)
The five P's
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In Gene's defense, not too long ago he asked about alternatives to this design, which the designer had proposed and he was not happy with. Looks like the designer won, and now Gene has to figure out how to build it.
Personally, I would make a quick right angle jig for a plunge router, use a long straight bit (3/8") to get as deep as I could, then I'd clean up with drills and chisels. The vaccuum idea is good; an air hose also works.
Mike
AH HA!!!
I KNEW There had to be a "designer" involved!!
Sorry Gene.
:)
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Thanks. I did exactly as you said, on a scrap length of 2x4. 5/16 dia. long bradpoint, a nice old antique Sorby 1-1/2 chisel, and my 1/4 mortising chisel. Plus the shop vac. Just eyeballing a line, I got a pretty good one in less than 10 minutes.
I figure I'll make a flanged block from some thick oak I have, for use as a drill guide. That'll get the holes aligned at the start. Then I'll just pull the block, and continue.