I am looking at a job where the paneling in two walls in a basement where damaged from and looking need to be replaced. The existing exiting is 1/4 hardboard paneling. And a suspended ceiling has been placed on to of it. The paneling sticks about 1 1/2″ above the top edge.
I am looking at several options to give to the customer. They are sure if they want to paint or paper and if to match or constrast with the walls that where not damaged.
If I go with DW (DensAmour Plus) that will be 1/2″ and I need to shorten up the metal T’s.
Can they be cut in place? and if so what to use. I have never done a suspended ceiling and don’t know how hard the tracks are to cut.
I know that the cross T’s snap in place on the uncut end. How do you release them and can they be reused? (I am concerned about matching the old track). But even if I get cross pieces out I have the long T’s.
I don’t know if a hacksaw would work as you have a long floppy piece and not way to really hold it steady.
The Bosch Fine cut power hand saw has a 20 tpi blade, but the spec sheets only says that it is for wood and plastic. Also it has a 5/8 stroke. So I think that would be same as hacksaw.
Fein Multimaster has metal cutting blades and I suspect that it will work. But $$$.
I could just leave the track in place and let the DW but up against the track and then caulk the joint. But it is kind of hackish.
But honestly to keep the cost reasonable and to be intune with the rest of the house it is not out of place.
It is a 60’ish lake cabin with walkout basement with living room and kitchen.
The street enterance is on the 2nd floor where the bedrooms are and there is a metal spiral staircase to the lower level.
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A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
Edited 7/23/2007 3:36 pm by BillHartmann
Replies
Bolt cutters . 3 nips and yer done.
That would work, but I could to cut the top leg don't I have to go from the top? If so I only have about 3" and would still have to take then down..
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A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
Bill,
Use tin-snips to cut the cross T's and the mains.
First release the wall angle in the area you will need to install the DW and pull out the old paneling. Then using the tin-snips you can cut the grid back the 1/4" or so that you need along the wall to get the DW slid up behind the wall angle. You should be able to remove at least the cross T's to give yourself some working room.
Geoff
Ceiling grid is usually pretty easy to raise or lower, simply adjust the hanger wires. It is a bit of a pain because it can be damaged if you're careless. Usually the short cross t's are not fastened to the side walls, because they have to be cut to fit. Remove all the ceiling tile, then the cut t's along the perimeter should lift up easily. Just take your time and work the joint loose. Once you get some slack, you can take out the center as needed. It is difficult to take out a t in the middle of the ceiling without damaging it, because you need a little slack to wiggle it loose. It cuts easily with tin snips, especially if the cut edge will be covered by the wall angle. The wall angle is probably held in place with fence staples. Some people try to use sheetrock screws, but it is very easy to warp or twist the wall angle as the screw tightens to the sheetrock.
"Put your creed in your deed." Emerson
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
Bill - They can be cut in place cleanly and easily with a pair of aviation snips. Wiss brand is good, yellow handled "straight cutting" is what you want.
Tees' can be released but not easily. Without a lot of practice, I wouldn't try it if I was you. Most likely you'll damage a lot of grid.
The "track" you refer to around the perimeter is called wall angle, it's 15/16" wide.
You mention cost is a factor, so think about this.
1. Leave the ceiling alone. Install a piece of 1 1/2" white angle under the existing wall angle, rock over the leg on the wall, now you have 1" of angle showing like you did before.
2. Rock up and under the existing wall angle. Then add a small crown molding between the drywall and the drop ceiling.
Both ways keep you from cutting tees, grid, or tiles...buic
The more that I think about it the "right" thing to do is to just but it up against the the wall angle.And let it be. The only difference would be that this section has 11/16" reviel instead of 15/16.And it is a dark corner. If I removed the wall angle then probably get kinked. And if I replaced it or if I add a dummny one to give the full reviel then it would be bright white.And molding would have to be put all around the room to look right. And then it would have to be stained to match the paneling on the other walls. Match the molding would be more work.This is a "simple" repair and not a remodel and it should look like it was alwasy that way. And based on the reset of the house a detail or 2 that is a bit funky would match right in..
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A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.