cutting crown on a standard miter saw
workinhard
| Posted in Construction Techniques on
Hey all,
I’ve got a compound miter saw, but was talking to my brother across the country and he’s trying to put up some crown molding with a standard miter saw. I’ve got him building a jig to cut the miters with, but how would he go about joining 2 pieces for a longer run? I normally bevel and miter at 20 degrees or more and then glue a piece of luan on the back and staple it.
How would he get the bevel and the miter on the standard saw? Any help would be appreciated. I can’t visualize it and don’t have any scraps in the garage to try it out.
Replies
just set it upside down and set the saw to 22.5 degrees..thats all i do for most scarfs..
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations.
Your age is showing.
That is the same way I did it with the old Stanley 99 hand miter saw. Still works too.
Dave
yeah, all 43 yrs.<G>...even with fancy expensive mitersaws I still mostly use only 15*, 22.5*, 30* 45*, and 90...go figgure. I never have cut crown on the flat..using a coumpound M/S. Old habits die hard...most restoration work I do , I follow the old work..it was 22.5...and hand cut.Probly from a wood box.
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Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations.
I use a 22 1/2 plus a biscuit.
How big a crown is your brother putting up? Most crowns can be cut in the verticle position, which just means that he can swing the saw to whatever angle he needs and cut. Remember to put the edge that goes against the ceiling on the table of the saw.Also, if his saw doesn't have miter stops available, I would make some kind of auxiliary table to hold the crown in the right position.
If the crown is not to wide......
can he place the flat back of the crown on his fence and cut it on a angle?
That would give him a beveled joint, right?
It's too wide for it to be placed against the fence. The motor of the saw (it's a 10") hits the stock before he's all the way through it. I think he's got 4.5" stock. Seems like it'd be good to get a bevel in there rather than just mitering it, no? What if he puts a little scrap against the fence and then lays the crown on top of it? I'm going to go try it out in my shop. I'll let you know.
Just tried it. It worked. I don't know why I couldn't get my head around it. He can do a bevel and a miter the same way he does when he's doing the corners - on the jig. I just put the stock in from the left side of the blade and the other piece comes in from the right side of the blade with the saw staying at the same setting. As if I was slicing through one piece of stock.
Thanks all for your suggestions.
Edited 3/5/2004 9:17:18 PM ET by workinhard
Try this site.
http://www.hoistman.com/HoistMan/Compound.html
I quit using scarf joints years ago. I just use a butt joint and it seems to work alot better, most of the time I use a biscuit to reinforce the joint but it really is not necessary if you spring the two boards. I let the two pieces overlap about 1/16" to 1/8" and snap them into place with a little glue on the ends and a solid piece of blocking behind. Most of the crown I install is painted and this joint holds up better and is easier to use than a scarf joint. Since the joint is all endgrain any surface area gained by scarfing is is negated by the grain orientation. If you try this technique you will be pleasently suprised by the results. I think it is faster and better than scarfing.
J.P.