Replies

1. 
   calvin | Mar 05, 2003 07:57pm | #1

   Well, not easy but thinking rental, and the ability to caulk the end of the top to the wall.  If you have a belt sander, cut a bit long (below) and fine tune it with the belt sander.  No end wall is square nor straight.

   Make sure the counter is well supported and bottom side up.  Mark your cut.  Important, the laminate will not chip if cut from the bottom and you stop the cut b/4 you exit the countertop. 

   Retract the blade guard (disclaimer, never retract the guard) and start from cut the back splash first, up from the bottom so the saw cuts full depth.  Now go to the other side of the well supported countertop (yup, still upside down) and cut from the front edge to the cut you just made.  Scrap doesn't fall off as it's still supported well, right?  Touch up to finish line with belt sander (if you have one). 

   Can you follow this?  Once you've done it, it'll be easy next time.

   Be careful, well supported countertop, cut from the bottom.  Never cut from one end to the other and have blade exit the laminate top (chips).

   __________________________________________

   Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

   http://www.quittintime.com/

2. 
   timy | Mar 05, 2003 08:11pm | #2

   put lots of masking tape around cut  line  turn upside down cut from the back with a good sharp blade  support the cut with scrap finish with a sander power planer ect. The most fun is cutting the sink opening  tape area draw opening drill 1/8" holes in corners turn counter upside down drill starter holes use jig saw cut area next to backsplash first  and about 3"to4" on each side to the lineat the backsplash turn over cut remainder  before finishing cut support with a scrap board span opening screwed to waste       any better ideas I'd like to hear them

1. 
   Tag | Mar 05, 2003 08:50pm | #3

   In my experience, the only thing tape does is hold the chips once they come off - it doesn't keep the laminate from chipping. 

   I also find it much easier to leave the countertop right side up, and either jigsaw with a downcut blade from the top side, or use a standard upcut blade cutting from the underside, holding the jigsaw upside down.  This latter method may sound awkward, but it's very easy to see your line, and you hardly have any dust flying in your eyes.  The countertop has to be uninstalled to have access to the underneath, though. 

    If the top is installed, you can cut from the top w/ down cut blade, but I use a scrap pc of cardboard held or taped to the saw base.   I've cut lots of custom tops this way where it would be a complete waste of time, and sometimes impossible, to turn the entire thing upside down.

   With a circ saw, I'd mark the cut, cut the backsplash part with the top upright, then flip the top and start cutting at the front edge to avoid chipping, and somehow support the cutoff as you finish the cut.

1. 
   timy | Mar 06, 2003 12:03am | #7

   Thanks for your reply.  First I use tape for two reasons 1st  so you can see your cut line better 2nd so I don't mar top haven"t had much luck padding foot of saw ;not that I"ve never done it gets in the way gums up the foot ect.  and turning a large counter over is a major pain I will agree esp by yourself  but for small vanitys  it"s fast enough. Anyway the problem I have cutting from top down is when you get to the area next to the backsplash (like kitchen sink cut outs slide in stoves ect)  how do YOU make that cut easy from the top I"ve tried sawzall  hand saw, thought about biscuit cutter that didn"t seem practical so if I have this type cut I make the cut along back (next to backsplash )first from backside flip it over and continue cuts from top (less chance of breaking top) Our local counter top supplier offer the option of them doing the cutout but I've never used it chances are the hole will be in the wrong place or that top going to show up in two parts So  I"m always looking for  better faster ways of working so let me know again thanks

1. 
   Tag | Mar 06, 2003 10:14pm | #8

   I agree on the tape, esp since dark or glossy laminates don't take/show pencil well.   I also normally don't tape anything to saw base - holding a loose pc of scrap cardboard works well as long as the top is big enough not to slide around, and you remove all staples from cardboard!

    I suppose on small vanity tops, it would be far easier to flip the top to make the cut, but small tops have been a rarity for me it seems.  Also I worry that whatever I set the top on will scratch it with vibrations, unless you have specially padded sawhorses.  Many china vanity bowls have a lot of play if you use the template, which I usually don't. I  lay the bowl upside down on the top, trace its perimeter, then cut about 1/2" to 3/4" inside that line, depending on what the bowl is like.  Metal bowls have less room to play, but anyway, I cut the back line as far from the backsplash as possible, taking care to leave plenty of room for bowl and faucet.   I have had to cut well inside my intended cut line, then finish up with upside down jigsaw cuts, or sawzall, handsaw, or whatever, but this is usually for kitchen sinks or cooktops.  

   I've done so many large tops that I learned to do them upright, and that's my preferred method even for small ones.  How do you accurately transfer the cut lines to the bottom of the countertop? With 1/8" holes drilled from the top side? I cut from the bottom side a lot, but I leave the top in place and flip the jigsaw over.  It works for me, and by no means am I trying to convert anyone else to my methods.  I was just sharing how I do it. 

   Main advice: If you try something different, don't let the homeowner see you scratching your head, saying "Hmmm...how am I gonna cut this hole?" :>)

2. 
   Steve1 | Mar 05, 2003 10:14pm | #6

   why all the cautions with cutting a sink hole?

   ive done hundreds of them, using a jig saw with a good blad and max orbital for speed, never chipped a top yet more than 1/8 inch, and sink overlap covers that easily

3. 
   ken1 | Mar 05, 2003 09:04pm | #4

   done this one often. made a piece of plywood up with a  90 degree at the corner to fit back of counter top . piece was 3/4 " mtl about 14" wide  clamp to back of counter top and cut using fine tooth blade on skill saw.

4. 
   Steve1 | Mar 05, 2003 10:06pm | #5

   i have cut many c'tops on sight, big thing is cut oversized and clean up during the scribing process, cutting a miter though is a whole different job

   i can cut for a miter using a straight edge for a saw guide with saw at max depth and finish the back splash with a jig saw and belt sander

   allways cut with the top upside down, use a really good blade and saw

   cut the draw bolt pockets with a router(i do it freehand)