I was wondering the best way to cut mitered corners on the course of coping units on the wall I’m laiyng. The coping units are 24″x12″x3″. I need to get a really crisp, straight cut for the mitered corners.
I am thinking of renting the biggest wet saw I can find, but I might have trouble with capacity of the saws to miter cut a unit that big. Any suggestions? Thanks for any help.
-Jay
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You can get a nice cut with a demo saw.
Demo saw is one way, but unless you have practice it may be hard to get a cut exactly where you want it. By this I mean if you aren't smooth with the throttle, the saw may kick some if you get twitchy with the throttle... which may throw you off your line. One way to do it is miter each side, butt them together and then run the saw down the miter one more time.
One way I've done it, which gives excellent results but is definitely more time consuming... take some quick grip clamps and clamp a straight edge to the coping, and use a circular saw with diamond blade. Cut both sides, and clean up any problems with an angle grinder with masonry grinding blade.
Yeah, I can see where that would work. I might give that a shot. Thank you for the suggestion.
-Jay
I'd have to disagree with Rusty. While using a Demo saw takes a nominal amount of skill,
straight edge/cut/flip/ set up straight edge/cut/ clean up with angle grinder- is slow, dusty, and often the cuts don't meet in the middle.
I've done many with a hand held cut-off saw, but a masonry saw with a sliding table is much more accurate and therefore easier to get good results with. I have an MK BX-3 with a 14" diamond blade. It cuts dry, but a wet saw is also a good choice. If you have a bunch to do, rent one. You'll be glad you did.
Bear
Bear,How do you like the MK-BX-3? Is it worth the money? Is it easily moved with one guy? I'm thinking it will cut down on the repetitive bending over when cutting for the soldier course with a gas powered saw. Is your company involved in a lot of hardscaping?Sorry for the Hi-jack JayTran. We use the 14" gas powered masonry saws with good results, you just have to take your time and use a straight edge. Also, if using the gas powered saw, squeeze the throttle completely before cutting and hold it. There is less wobble once the blade has reached it's maximum RPM's. Setting the block on a flat and stable surface helps. We usually designate one of the wall caps that is broken as the sacrificial "cutting board".Aaron
Aaron,
Yes the MK is worth the money. This is the third one I've had. First one developed trigger problems after a couple of years in the middle of a big job, so I bought another and had the first one fixed. After both of those were stolen out of my trailer with lots of other stuff, I bought the one I have now.
There is a folding metal stand that either comes with it, or not, depending on the supplier, and is worth having. And yes, 1 guy can set it up alone. I have a couple of Stihls, a 12" TS400 and a newer 14" TS420. We cut pavers with those, and use the MK for blocks and coping.
We do lots of hardscape work, including drystack flagstone walls in addition to the manufactured products. I've been at it for about 30 years. We've been building water features for 10 years now, and have been planting forever. Used to build a lot of decks, but now only one or two a year.
One of these days I'll post some photos of the more interesting projects.
Bear
Bear,Thanks for the response. The electric saw is next on the list of items to buy. I am always looking for tools and techniques to speed up and simplify the installation of concrete paver products, or any products for that matter.Are you familiar with the spike driver from PTI? http://pavetool.com/index.htmThis reduced the amount of time we spent installing the edge restraint for pavers by more than half. It has paid for it self several times over. Techo blok distributes it. The company I work for has been in business for just about the same amount of time. The scope of work sounds the same except we stay away from the water features.Can't wait for the pics.Aaron
Edited 8/2/2009 1:13 pm ET by akb25
I generally do this with just a 6" angle grinder & a dry diamond blade. Mark and cut from both sides and if the cuts aren't deep enough, just whack the block with a brick hammer to bust it apart. Comes out pretty clean, but if there's a bit of a bulge on one side, it's pretty easy to dress it up with the diamond blade.
Now if you have a hundred of these, maybe it's worth it to get a bigger saw. But for only a few, it'll take more time to go to the rental shop than to just do it with the grinder.
Mike Hennessy
Pittsburgh, PA
Everything fits, until you put glue on it.