Hi,
I’m looking to install attic stairs in a hallway in the center of the house. The hallway between joists is 6 feet wide so when the joists are cut, they would only extend an inch or two past the stud walls on each side of the hallway.
However, all the ceiling joists are sistered for about 4 feet throughout the middle of the house, where the left side joist overlaps the right one in order to span the width of the house.
Is it advisable to cut these and is there any special framing required other than the standard double headers at the end of the cut joists? I think I can get by with cutting just one, but I might need to cut two (they are on 16″ centers).
Thank you in advance,
Jon
Replies
Jon
While it is possible for wall spread and rafter sag at this location-cutting one would certainly not see it happen. Two? perhaps, but again it's done with no ill effects often.
Your header across the cut joists will help, but the connection of the cut joist to header and header to the uncuts at each end would be important, so there's no pull out. Joist hangers would limit or prevent pullout of the cut joists. I suppose you could get by with lag or structural screws in place of the hangers. The connection at the ends of the header would not be able to pull out, but nailing or structural screws with shear strength is advised (don't spike it together with a couple nails) and nail off the header well-you don't just put a couple boards together, tack it and call it good.
If you plan on sheeting the top of the joists around the access stairs, nail them off well and this will hold the cut joists to the uncut framing-allowing you to forget joist hangers.
Thanks Calvin,
As it turns out, I only have to cut one. The ceiling is tongue and groove 3/4" pine (as are the walls, it's an old house), so there is plenty of structural support to prevent spreading.
Speaking of the t&g, I'm hoping to keep the ceilings and most of the walls, but they've been painted a few times and the paint is bubbly in places. Is there a good way to strip paint off the walls and ceilings? I presume sanding is the best option versus a roll on stripper?
Thanks again,
Jon
The bubbles in the paint.............
Knots that have bled and pushed away the paint? Moisture pushing it off?
You could scrape off the loose stuff then use Durabond to patch the paint/bare transition-lightly sand with a block to feather it out. Should paint out fine if primed with something like Bins b/4 the patch and after.
Larger areas, IR paint removing if you can rent one or think purchase is wothwhile. Google Infra Red paint removal.
http://www.eco-strip.com/