cutting stucco and putting new jambs
i have opened a can of worms ๐
we have bought new efficient vinly windows to replace our horrible aluminum windows,
they are larger and more in number than the originals,
1- removing the studs on a weight bearing exterior wall: if i am removing 3-4 studs and there are 2 interior walls steming from the exterior walls 8′ apart from each other (the window in between), do i need screw jacks? What’s the best way to remove the studs? I’ve removed the shiplap sheathing on the inside. Do i cut the studs w circular saw then whack them out and use pry-bar? Can i get the studs out from inside and install jamb on inside, THEN cut through stucco and ship lap siding on outside to reveal rough opening? What is the best way to cut the stucco, circular saw with blade put in backwards?
Kind thanks
michael hollihn
traditional timber frames,
ecoforestry,
sawmilling
Replies
Lord, where to begin
1) timber framing isn't stud framing....
2) the position of any interior bearing walls has little to do with how you need to approach cutting in new rough openings
3) are the exterior walls you need to modify carrying roof loads (are they gable end)
4) why do you have shiplap sheathing (don't you mean paneling) on the inside
I'd say if you are this confused about what to do, you need to either hire someone or take a course in stick framing (or read up on it) before attempting anything...
Lord, begin where you start :)
1- timber framing is 16' o.c. and stud framing is 16" o.c. :)
2- the interior bearing walls will take some load from the roof as the lower cords of the rafters are sitting on them won't they? thought it might help a little
3- the exterior walls are gable ended, they most likely are carrying roof loads
4- i'm not sure if i'm using the correct term the sheathing is 3/4x8 boards with a lap joint shaped on each side (as opposed to t&g)
5- can't afford to hire someone
6- i'm reading this discussion group seems to be a good source of information even if i get the odd snarky carpenter :)
7- i will not move until i understand the physics of it all
kind thanks for your sage advice
michael hollihn
timber framer
ecoforester
sawyer
Snarky?
1) yep...LOL
2) rafters don't have lower chords, trusses do
3) They can't all be gable ended, & the ones that are don't carry roof load!
4) Sheathing is on the outside...are we talking about the outside?
5) Me neither, & there's so many crooks/incompetants out there that it's downright scary...
6) I'll admit to being odd, but not snarky..
7) And being a timber framer, uinderstanding the loads should be easy....
Seriously, some of the other replies re waterproofing were right on the money....if you really are expecting it to be waterproof you've got problems....because in order to flash properly at least some part of the flashing needs to be behind the stucco, which means cutting the stucco out larger than the new windows, which means patching the stucco back in (good luck matching it) and a resultant cold joint in the stucco...
Big beam & screwjacks, temporary studwall....whatever floats your boat as long as it holds everything up...
4" grinder w/a diamond blade to cut the stucco...(BTW, we are talking a regular smooth coat prtland stucco here, right....not the foam stuff & not pebble dash?)
Ok i stand corrected, odd not snarky :)
Thank you for the schooling
2) we stil call a truss two rafters and a lower cord
3) i am working on the gable end wall in the bathroom, i will be working on the non-gable end wall when i get to the living room, are you sure that the gable end wall where i'm working doesn't carry any loads? in timber frame computerized engineering drawings there is always loads shown going down the king and queen posts or what have you, i would of thought that the loads get distributed down the gable end and also down the other two sides?
4) i'm talking about the inside wall here, the house here has the same type of "sheathing" on both sides of the studs: 3/4x8 horizontal boards with a lap joint shaped down the sides, what else do you call it?
5) i am ready to do this, i just need a walk through so i don't make any BIG mistakes, i'm alright making small mistakes because that's where the lessons are made, i always pride myself (not too much pride of course) that i never make the same mistake twice, so long as they are not BIG that's life for meI hadn't considered the flashing of the stucco yet, thank you for that. This is why i'm on this thing. I do think, off the bat, that i will be ok as we are putting a timber frame porch off the gable end/bathroom side that will protect the stucco damage we do.
The other parts of the house i think the windows go so close to the top of the stucco that we can remove it all and start from scratch where the stucco meets the wood on the gable end. I'll meditate on this.
So is the consensus that the two bathroom walls (7' apart) will not act as my temporary stud wall to hold up the gable end wall as i remove 4 studs?
A 4" grinder with a diamond blade is better than a circ saw with a diamond blade?
The stucco is that 70's crap with broken colored glass embedded in it. It's not smooth. Is this pebble dash? I feel the circ saw might be easier, what are your thoughts?
Thanks again
Michael
Traditional timber framer
ecoforester,
sawyer
3) well, although there are indeed loads on the gable end, but unless you have a bearing ridge beam, which, since you seem to be describing a trussed roof, you don't have, then the loads above the top plate at the gable wall are nominal compared to the loads at the walls the end of the trusses bear on...
4) Man, you've gotta send me a picture of this place...unless the builders were really odd, it must be a very old place, which makes me think you shouldn't take #3 above as gospel....it isn't roofed with modern 2x4 trusses, is it...?Circular saw with a diamond blade is fine, just more expensive blade & harder to see/control than the 4" grinder for me..mind you I've never tried cutting through "stucco" with colores glass embedded...you've REALLY got to post a picture..
As far as the timber frame porch protecting the stucco cuts at the gable ends, well, no, you've still got the same problem flashing the porch roof into the stucco, unless you are bringing the new roof up to the same plane as the existing & re-roofing....
You are opening a can of worms.
In order to properly flash the windows you a going to have to remove parts of the stucco apply the flashing and reapply stucco over it. Do not cut corners on this thinking caulk will do the job.
If you do not properly flash your new windows you WILL DESTROY your house.
Water will seep in and rot your sheathing studs and worse.
If you are cutting into load bearing walls and have to ask questions like do I need to shore it up etc... you should have a pro come out and do the work for you or at least show you what needs to be done, unless you do not mind putting your life in danger or really messing up your house. If the windows are larger you also need to be sure that you are using the right size headers when you replace them.
Sorry if I sound a little harsh, But some things (like altering the structure of a house) should be left to a pro.
Can of worms already opened :)
I understand flashing, yes you are right on the mark.
I am only wanting to know the best way to cut the stucco.
Sounds like i will use the screw jacks on the small room even, or the japanese method of posts and wedges.
For a 5' wide window is a 4x12 header to big or could i get by with a 4x6,8 or 10?
I run a sawmill i can cut whatever i want.
Thanks for all the grilling here boys, i DO intend to do this carefully and properly, it is my family i'm trying to house :)
Michael
Traditional Timber Framer,
Ecoforester,
Sawyer
Build a temporary interior wall to support the ceiling joists.
Install new king studs and header that is engineered for that span.
Install new jack studs.
Cut out the old window.
Install ext. sheathing,house wrap and ice/water shield on sill.
Install drip cap.
Install the window and put ice/water shield starting at the sill and working upward along the jambs in a way consistent with shedding water downward and away from the structure.
To answer another question: Cut the studs out with a sawzall.
Cut stucco with a diamond blade saw. Dewalt makes a demolition 7 1/4 circ saw blade that works well. There will be allot, allot and even more ....dust.
I would work from the inside out. Once you have the new hdr and studs in place use a drill and masonry bit to drill holes from the inside-out in each corner. Go outside with a level and marker and connect the dots [drilled holes in the corner]. This will be your cut lines on the stucco.
Did I mention dust?
Cut out a few hundred of these when I lived in Phoenix. New England is kinder to me!
Mark
Thank you Mark,
I have started from the inside and am now awaiting comprehension of the next step. You have painted a clear picture for me.
Can the temporary interior wall be two posts or screw jacks holding up a beam about 5' away from the exterior wall (so i can work inbetween)?
Is a sawzall a reciprocating saw?
If i knew that i was getting into the dust business at timber framing school, i would of thought twice :)
Thanks for the advice and i look forward to hearing more before i start.
Michael.
Timber Framer
Ecoforester
Sawyer
Yes, sawzall=reciprocating saw.
I'm having difficulty envisioning your temp. wall. I would put it as close to the other wall as possible. Depending on the size of the temp. posts I guess 2 posts could do it. This is however a place not to skimp. The goal is to temporarily fully support the area within the span of the new header.
Did I mention dust? Ha! Mark