D/Wall Patches – paper flange method
toolbear
| Posted in Construction Techniques on
Folks,
Repairing a dozen or more forklift holes punched in our warehouse wall.
Given the small size of the punctures, this seemed a good time to try that method where you cut the patch with a 2″ border, then strip off the DW there to leave a paper flange all the way around the patch. Mud the rim, pop the patch in and go from there.
It looked good in the text. Of course, they never showed how they got all the DW off the flange without tearing the paper. After slicing and peeling and puncturing and such, I went back and screwed in wood backers and did it the old way.
Anyone have tips for making this method work? How do you get rid of the DW and leave the paper?
The ToolBear
“Never met a man who couldn’t teach me something.” Anon.
Replies
Score the paper on the back side, then break along the slice line like you were going to cut the sheet. Then peel the broken edge piece from the paper, starting along the break line. The paper will curl as you do this but flattens fine once you get the mud on it.
If I had a handy scrap I'd post a picture, but nothing smaller than about 3x3 feet in the garage right now (and it's to blasted cold to go cutting the piece up).
happy?
Nicely explained and a real good way to fix small or medium hole. I've only rarely had some of the gypsum stick to the paper. Crisp board seems to peel easier. Snap and peel it off away from the patch is all I could add.A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Yeah, definitely some types of board work better than others. Probably depends on brand of board, age, thickness, etc.
If ignorance is bliss why aren't more people
happy?
I usually square up the hole to be patched, too. Then cut the plug snug and use wet mud to stick it with. Works like a charm, no overlapping tape in corners.TIPI,TIPI,TIPI!
TNX. I saved some scraps so I will practice next week. Think another chap had an thought about beating the DW on the flanges with hammer. Try 'em both.The ToolBear
"Never met a man who couldn't teach me something." Anon.
occasionally there's little lumps - I use the 'back' edge of my snap-blade knife to scrape these off
All the best...
To those who know - this may be obvious. To those who don't - I hope I've helped.
I've seen that method, and it always struck me as a "handy-homeowner" Bob-Vila type fix, more fluff than stuff, if you know what I mean. With small holes, I usually just pack them with a stiff mix of hot mud, and tape over with mesh, then float them out as usual. I don't usually put wood backing on small stuff, but it depends. If it was a door-knob hole I would, since you know it eventually will get hit again. And I guess it depends how small is small.
Theres several ways to fix that size hole .
I never could justify the time fiddling with peeling the paper clean after cutting the hole sqaure and measuring- cutting the piece anyway.
I look at the hole and cut a piece one time with a battery jig saw then trace the peice on the wall and cut that . I use the big threaded drywall screws meant for bonding drywall to drywall and slip a piece behind the hole to screw too since the drywall is there anyway. Normally Im using 15 minute mud anyway and fiber tape for added bonding. Extra mud does a sasay around the out side of the patch after its taped for the build. Takes another coat to finsish it anyway. Thats as strong as the drywall was before.
Tim
Tim, you and Huck ought to give this old trick a try. You'll be surprised at how easy the "hot patch" goes on.
You can use hot mud on this one too.
I'm sure anyone can get this hot patch done in two minutes and that includes one minute for chasing the mud! The best part is that it works!
blue
I have tried it and the way I described is boogering .
Think about it cause I have often.
In the hot patch method , you must square the hole anyway with a sharp knife cause if you saw it you defeat the system. The saw will pull the cut outwards. The paper must lay flat unobstructed for it to work with the paper border clean. The whole principle is using the dryall border to tape over the hole thus saving tapeing and laying flat to the wall saving extra finishing. Its a smooth wall method and clean . That it is .
But count the measuring and cutting steps on both the wall and the piece. Now count the time with cleaning the paper and cutting through the wall with a knife.
In the system I described you measure once from your eye estimate transposed to the piece. You never measured the hole. You dont care . The reason you use the saw anyway is for the wall . Roto zip does the same job but I dont have a battery one. You had to have the drywall scap there anyway so use it for backing estimating the size strip with your eye not measuring. Hot mud is normal program too . Nothing extra is needed and no precise measuring. Boogering .
Tim
Tim, I eyeball everything too.
Okay, it might take two minutes and five seconds.
blue
Tim, you don't need to measure. Hold the pc up backwards below the hole, cut. Beside the hole, cut. Peel, mud and insert.A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
HOT MUD
So, who has a favorite formula for hot mud?
Only thing in the shop is 5 minute, which is rather fast for me. I need something a bit more forgiving and user-friendly.
There was a thread last year (?) on D Mud - topping compound, PVA mixed and then plaster of Paris added when mixing for use - if I recall it. Said you could mist it as needed to retard the cure.
Don't have the details, but it sounded interesting.The ToolBear
"Never met a man who couldn't teach me something." Anon.
If I understand you, your backer is another piece of drywall. Like the idea. I was running out of survey stakes - which was all we had for backers - but had excess drywall.
The ToolBear
"Never met a man who couldn't teach me something." Anon.
We surveyed the damage and settled on three sizes of patch. Made up a bunch then went up the ladders and traced and sawed and installed backersThe ToolBear
"Never met a man who couldn't teach me something." Anon.
Repairing a dozen or more forklift holes punched in our warehouse wall.
Just forget the patches, and run 3/4" plywood around the walls, at least 2' high if you don't stack pallets over two high. That is a more permanent fix than patching dw in a warehouse area.
We use to install plywood in warehouse areas of Winn Dixie stores to 8' heights. Latter we had to add pipe rail bumpers at the base of the walls as an additional measure.
Where I work now, we ran a 2' strip of plywood around the room were our bill inserter machine is located. They only use hand operated pallet lifts there, but still managed to punch holes in all the walls at pallet edge height. they now scuff the painted plywood pretty good, but I haven't had to patch drywall in there in the past year.
We use FRP for more public areas to cover drywall and protect it from hand carts and two wheel dolly damage. It is not as strong as the plywood wood, but does look better and the scuff marks can be cleaned off.
For other dw patches, I use Tim's method. Same reasons.
Dave
Well, they are not stacking pallets on that wall anymore. It's a crew area.
Would make sense to use 3/4 ply backers in areas where they punch thru on a regular basis. The ToolBear
"Never met a man who couldn't teach me something." Anon.
Take your hammer , after you have made youe cuts to paper, lay patch on level smooth & hard surface, and lightly pound up the waste drywall, scrape, mud and level. works great and gets ride of some stress too !
IF IT WAS EASY, EVERYONE COULD DO IT !
Go to a drywall supplier and get some metal mesh patches for this. They come in differant sizes. Pell off the paper backing, stick over hole, and mud. Way faster than fussin with those blow-out patches you're trying to do.