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I have a deck that is built on ‘glue-lams’ that are cantilevered from the main house, and virtually inaccessible from below (40 foot above ground). Are there books/articles/web pages that describe the best techniques for building such a deck with a view to avoiding wood rot?
If the glue-lams were to become damaged, it would be catastrophic for me. Similarly, if the railing posts were to become loose (due to rot at the base) it would also be a disaster. How does one design a deck such that all the wood remains rot-free, given that it’s unavoidable that various wood surfaces end up adjacent to each other (everyone knows the main decking has good separation between members to allow for good air-flow, but what about the framing, railings, trim, etc.)? My current deck is 10 years old or so – what do I need to be doing to preserve it’s life, and how do I do it given that I cannot access it from below or the sides?
Thanks, Chris
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Chris, given the severe consequences involved, I would suggest hiring a GOOD contractor for this, who may suggest a design or recommend an architect. Sunset, Better Homes & Gardens, and other magazines are a good source for a variety of designs to start from, but an experienced builder would be able to work out the details for you.
That said, copper flashing and EPDM rubber are two ways to protect the top of the beams from water, mahogany is one of the strongest and most rot-resistant woods used for railings and posts, and you want to pre-seal everything and allow for water drainage everywhere.
Mike
*Actually, I was not very clear - my apologies. I already have such a deck, and am now very concerned about keeping it 'sound' and 'safe'. I was hoping to find information about how to maintain, and perhaps adjust, the deck. Adjustments would include adding flashing, or rubber, as you mention. The biggest mysteries for me are - where two wooden surfaces abut, how do you deal with the unavoidable trapped moisture between surfaces (applies to all the edging and posts) - and, when you use flasings, you inevitably have to penetrate the flashings (bolts, nails, etc). How do you waterproof such penetrations? My #1 concern right now is the railing posts - they abut the boards that surround the deck, and must surely be trapping water. I could loosen the bolts that attach the railings, slightly, then - what? seal? Thanks, Chris
*I wouldn't be loosening anything 40 feet up in the air without knowing what you are doing. A bead of quality caulk at up-facing joints will keep most water out. The builder might have used an adhesive waterproof caulk when installing the posts and rail so loosening the bolts can break the bond and create problems. When you buy a car - are you the type who takes all the seats out to be sure that the seat belts were installed correctly. Do you and your wife have a preflight checklist to make sure that her diaphragm is correctly inserted and gelled before you go sky-diving?Sorry about making you the butt of my post but I'm feeling a little ______ tonight. LOLWhen I do one like this, I order the beam in PT material, then I attach strips of Ice and water shield to the tops of the beam before laying the deck boards over it. For something as critically high as yours I'd back seal the deck boards first. If there is any trapped moisture it will affect the boards but not the beam. I have taken apart porches 80 years old done in similar manner with old pitch paper stapled to the top of framing 2xs of spruce. It was very effective.
*Trust me - if I could get a good contractor, I would. Getting a good contractor to even give you a quote for work in the San Francisco Bay Area is like finding water in the desert. I've had contractors not even wanting to come out; contractors say they'll come out but don't show; contractors who show, but don't even give a quote after repeated calls, and finally - very, very rarely - a contractor who will come, and give a quote, and tell you he may be able to fit you in 'next year sometime', and bid thousands and thousands of dollars for the work. Even with the 'dot com bomb', contractors are still in short supply and can pick and choose their projects. This is good for them, but not good for me. So - given that there's a limit to how many days I'm willing to take off work waiting for contractor no-shows, or contractor shows that don't bother to bid, I'm trying to learn for myself what the issues are so I may be able to take some preventive measures myself. Also - when I bought this house, 6 years ago, we had some deck work done as part of the purchase transaction. It's already falling apart. It seemed obvious to me at the time that the guy was not thinking about the water drainage aspect, but when I asked, he spoke in the manner of 'I know what I'm doing, shut up and pay the bill'. Now, 6 years and $7,000 later, it's going to have to be re-done. So even if I can get a contractor, I want to learn the issues for myself. I have an engineering degree and have done all kinds of projects myself, and of course read that fine magazine 'Fine Homebuilding'! Thanks, Chris
*Good luck Chris,I am a contractor and I'm so far behind I don't even know wheere I am - this is on the east coast.What recession?
*chris, I feel for you, i am a contractor in s.f. and have alredy started filling up 2nd q. of next year, hear a lot of other rem. contractors in the same boat... remodles always go over schedule and the labor pool for help is small and shrinking ( no one wants to be a carpenter,plumber,electrician when they can get a I.T. job.)bottom line is if you are good in sf you are busy just keeping up with the referals. keep trying and schedule appointments in the evening so if you get no shows you have no lost time at work, also it may not be a bad idea to get on someones schedule for next year, at least it will get done next year.....ask freinds reliatives, co workers if they can refer you to a good contractor. i ,and other contracotrs, try very hard to work in referals. best of luck
*Chris, Go to your local library and read as many books on decks. FH has a couple of good books about decks. Some books dealing with siding might also give you some ideas. You should be able to learn alot from those. The best and easiest thing you can probably do is keep it clean. Good luck.Jon Blakemore
*Chris- can you post a picture of what you have now? Bob
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I have a deck that is built on 'glue-lams' that are cantilevered from the main house, and virtually inaccessible from below (40 foot above ground). Are there books/articles/web pages that describe the best techniques for building such a deck with a view to avoiding wood rot?
If the glue-lams were to become damaged, it would be catastrophic for me. Similarly, if the railing posts were to become loose (due to rot at the base) it would also be a disaster. How does one design a deck such that all the wood remains rot-free, given that it's unavoidable that various wood surfaces end up adjacent to each other (everyone knows the main decking has good separation between members to allow for good air-flow, but what about the framing, railings, trim, etc.)? My current deck is 10 years old or so - what do I need to be doing to preserve it's life, and how do I do it given that I cannot access it from below or the sides?
Thanks, Chris