Hello,
I’m working on replacing the old deck that was on the house when we bought it. The new deck is pretty good sized, by my standards at least, about 950sq ft. For a variety of reasons, we went w/ the easily available and inexpensive 5/4×4 cedar decking boards, using #8×2-1/2 decking screws. Unfortunately, some(most) of the boards are splitting slightly when the screw is driven home. Usually when the head pulls down snug, a small crack about 1/2-1″ in either direction.
Right now we have a fair amount of decking down, and have been trying to be careful and avoiding the splitting/cracking thru technique i.e. being more careful when running the screw in, w/ varying degrees of success. Some people I know have suggested that this will not work and I need to pre-drill *every* hole. Considering 4″ boards, 16″ OC joists… that’s an awful lot of screws, and an awful lot of time/effort spent monkeying around pre-drilling. Short of going to nails or some sort of concealed fastener (not likely, as I already have the supplies paid for and on site), is there any other way to prevent the splitting and cracking from occuring besides pre-drilling? Also, w/ regards to the boards that are already installed… is there any remedial actions I can take to preven them from getting worse as they dry?
Thank you for your time,
Monte
Replies
I agree. Pre-drill and countersink.
Not that hard. Get two drills, set one up with the drill bit and the other (VSR) with the screwdriver bit. Just go back and forth between them.
I'd even be tempted to back out what's done, to relieve stress on those boards. But I'm semi-retired, not a weekend DIYer.
one thing to do is to toe screw at the butts..keep the screw as far back as is possible to ensure enough meat left from the end.
switch to trim heads..that is the best solution if ya really don't want to drill.
What are the exact specs or brand /type of screw? Those torx drive seem better than some of the big box honkers out there.
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The screws I'm using are the Deckmate tan colored #8x2-1/2 w/ the funky combo #2 phillips / square bit from HD, in the 25# box. I have been kind of skipping over the ends, as I knew I would *have* to pre-drill at an angle to keep them from splitting. Figured I'd save that fun for once the deck as a whole was down, so I had some more stable footing.
Thanks,
Monte
Edited 5/31/2004 11:11 am ET by milanuk
Pretty much guaranteed to split the boards. If you're not going to pre-drill, you at least need to use self-drilling screws with a thin shank. Only problem is I don't know any of those that are not stainless. Did a mahogany deck with them last year. Self-drilling with a torx head. Around $25 for a small box. About 5 times the price of deckmates.
Predrill. You'll end up saving time because you won't have to worry so much about running the screw in. Heck, you'd probably already be done with it by the time you've read all of these posts.
There is a drill attachment that makes predrilling easier. Dewalt, Hitachi, & Porter Cable sell them at HD & Lowes, and thewre's probably other brands as well. One end is a drill bit & countersink combo, the other end is a srewdriver bit. They come in various sizes (#6,8,10, & 12) and you can change the driver bit to match the screw head. You can also buy a set with all four drill sizes, but that's usually not necessary. It's easy to flip from drilling the driving, and it eliminates the splitting.
Whenever you are asked if you can do a job, tell'em "Certainly, I can!" Then get busy and find out how to do it. T. Roosevelt
Well, it sounds as if I'm pretty much stuck w/ pre-drilling. I guess part of the reason I was wanting to avoid it so badly is that the boards being cedar and whatnot, I've been getting my money's worth out of a 'board wrench' to nudge bowed boards into place. Even w/ that and two people, one starting from one end and othe other using the board wrench at the other, it still ends up being kind of a handful: pulling the board in/down w/ one, and screwing w/ the other. Adding drilling, swapping the bit, then screwing, while trying to keep things halfways lined up w/ the board wrench... Guess I don't necessarily have to drill the holes while the board is right in place, right? Sorry if it sounds like a dumb question, this is my first deck, and first time having to pre-dril boards (obviously).
Thanks,
Monte
Warped boards? Well, if you don't mind a few more joints, cut the worst ones in half, then install. Only works iof the board is 10 ft or longer, otherwise you get really short pieces. Or save the bad ones for where you know you will need short pieces. Or turn the board around so when it is laying relaxed, the concave side is against the previous board. Apply pressure to straighten it out, and then both ends are pressed tight at the same time. Even better, hire Pro Deck to do it for ytou.
Whenever you are asked if you can do a job, tell'em "Certainly, I can!" Then get busy and find out how to do it. T. Roosevelt
I juist did 900 sq ft of Ipe1 an dpredrilled all of it. I figure it only added about three hours to predrill, but I had two drills, one to make holes and one to set screws.
Right that you need to do it and right that you needn't have the board in place to drill.
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I agree w/Sphere. Torx head are the way to go. Been using them exclusively for 2 years with out problem. I still pre-drill the butt ends. I always have torx heads on hand from 1 1/2" trim to 6" structural. GRK is one brand to look at.
NES
I put down 2300 sq ft cedar deck using 2x6 an I used one of the underdeck rail systems, not only does it eliminate the splitting, but after 4 years the deck does look better than if I had top screwed it.
I use a screw I get from McFeeley's. Stainless, #8 x 2-1/2, small squaredrive head like a trim screw, head finished in color (I use the tan), and the point end is machined with a cutter groove.
In 5/4 x 6 radius edge select tight knot cedar, the only place I predrill is when I need to go through a rock hard knot. No splits, ever.