Construction Guru’s
I am in the design stage of building my own deck. My wife has had this on my “Honey Do†list for a long time now and it looks like this is the year. My plan is to take some design liberties and experiment (I am contracted to build fairly standard box framed decks usually).
I am going to build a curved deck and rails and I am looking forward to this challenge, although I haven’t decided to kerf or laminate the band board. My question is on another design element. I would like to incorporate two tile features into the design. One area under a gas grill and the other area under the table.
My question is this, how do I frame this so that the tile doesn’t crack and shift? I’m thinking about framing a ¾ inch exterior plywood floor and then a layer of durock, then tile as normal will be the ticket. Is this the ticket? I don’t think screwing durock on the decking is wise. If I’m right, should I be liquid nailing the plywood to the joist and thin setting the durock to the plywood (screwing them down I know)? I am thinking about putting a small (¾â€ by ¾â€) flashing around the plywood for water protection.
I’d like the input please!
David H. Polston
Founder, Sawdust Inc.
Replies
For the best results, frame an openning to the ground and do a deep footing so the tile base is totally separate support frm the deck, as you would an interior masonry fireplace.
What I might do is to frame the openning and then frame the tiled area about two-three inches lower, plywood and pour a mud base supported by the deck.
How large (read heavy)it is, how high from the ground to deck surface and how close support posts are to tile area are the variables.
Hey Piffin,
What's with the hat? I've seen pics of your work and read your posts so you deserve some recognition.
On the subject of decks, any suggestions on keeping it clean underneath? When we tore up our wood porch (30 x 6 barely above ground level) there were so many bugs my wife wants me to lay stone or brick now.
Steve
"What's with the hat? "
Doggoned if I know!
I always wear a hat. It keeps my brains from boiling over or getting soppy in a rain.
;>)
But I can't see a hat from my browser.
And when I post a pic to my profile it disappears.
Oh well but thanks for the recognition.
Excellence is its own reward!
I don't see a hat either.My name is Luka.
Jeff,
What's with the hammer? That mean your thumbs are blue?
Excellence is its own reward!
It ain't my thumbs.
Story of my life...
My name is Luka.
Thinking carefully now;
This is a multiple choice question.
Since it ain't yur thumbs,
It must be_______
A. blueblood
B. blue baby
C. blue boned
D. sometimes cowgirls get the blues
Excellence is its own reward!
You missed E.
Blue Eyes.
What ? You all thought I was talking about something else ?
Shame on all of you.
My name is Luka.
LOL! This forum has all kinds of strange features. I was wondering what Add To Friends did. Apparently it gives my friends a little hat. Not sure what the point is but now you and Jeff (Luka) have a hat.
Steve
So I've been "hatted" with Luka by Steve.
That's better than being Knighted with Fergie by the Archbishop!
;>)
Thanks, fren
Excellence is its own reward!
Gives new meaning to the term, "Mad hatters' club", doesn't it ?
Do I get to be club president ?
My name is Luka.
ROFLOL
Is the hammer still there along with the hat ?
My name is Luka.
Yep, both there. I wonder how many a person can get?
That's interesting, you are only a hammer when you reply but not when we reply to you. But you are still my friend.
David- I'm not sold on the tile concept for several reasons.
1.Water will eventually make it through the grout and around the edge of the tile and into the plywood.
2. 3/4" flashing will not divert the water from the underside of the plywood.
Use 1" L flashing at least.
3. No matter how strong you make your deck there will be flex, and this will affect the stability of the grout.
4. Glossy tile is very slippery when wet , if you do this use a porous tile. You are setting yourself up for a cleaning nightmare. You will have to clean and seal the grout every year, mask and tape the tiled section off to clean and stain the wood portion of the deck,unless you are using a composite decking.
I do like curved decks and railings. It makes them look unique, and softens the otherwise sharp edges of the majority of decks.
Good luck building this and have fun
Bob
"Rather be a hammer than a nail"
Allow for drainage and use PT plywood thenExcellence is its own reward!
I think that the tile area can be done despite the flexing problem. Most residential floors are done over a wood frame floor that does have considerable flexing, at least as much as a well framed deck. I think that the main problem is having a plywood base that will eventually delaminate. I like Piffin's idea of a recessed mud bed. I would put in enough reinforcing in this so that it can support itself and tile over. If it is a small area, it is worth a try and if it is your own, can be fixed without an irate customer. Your wife is another matter but she is used to you.
I'd like to get back to the original question about the tile. I rebuilt my deck about 2 years ago and I still haven't resolved the grill thing. I actually want an entire outdoor kitchen. I built one temporarily to try things out. I found that proximity to the real kitchen is extremely important. I also learned that I didn't need a sink after all, a pitcher of water and a dishpan are fine. I need more wind protection. There should be nothing behind the cooking area, like a handrail. I have to wrap mine in aluminum foil when I cook anything because I'm nervous about buring the paint. Basically, I decided outdoor cooking areas should be an island arrangement.
I think that idea to do a regular masonry foundation inset in the deck is a good idea. I would go ahead and build up a whole little kitchen station out of masonry while I was at it, like those expensive looking things in Front Gate catalog.
As for your wife's bug concerns under the deck, I get that. I did my deck in 3 levels, from way up high to ground level. I put bark mulch under the high part, but under the stuff that's only a 2x8 off the ground, I dug it out and spread about 2" of crushed granite under there. I just bought it by the bag at Home Depot. It was mainly for peace of mind and cleanliness. Mold and mildew need nutrients to grow, and dirt has nutrients. If you can keep it from splashing up on your wood, you're better off. I figure with the rocks the bugs have fewer reasons to hang out under there. It's not tasty to eat or cosy to hide in. But I'm sure the spiders don't care. So any bugs that go there, enter at their own risk.
I think deck building should be a fun creative process. Planning and permits take all the fun out of it. The way I did mine was to just start at the house and build a section. Then I'd stand back and decide where to put the next part. When I got that done, I'd stand back and see if it needed some more. I decided for money's sake to do it all in sections that could be decked with 8' lumber. I used PT 2x4s because they are the cheapest and most plentiful thing Home Depot sells. I'd pick through about one pallette to get 10 boards. It took more screws than 2x6s or that 5/4" decking, but it looks great. I got me a Bo-wrench, and it made all the difference in the world, let me tell you. 2x deck boards let me use 24" centers instead of 16" so I saved money on the expensive framing lumber.
The other deck thing that turned out good for me was wrapping the steps and levels in 2x10s when I was done. This left a lip for hiding some of that rope lighting. With just the rope lights on and no overhead fixtures, the bugs won't fly at your head so much. Your wife should like that. Plus, the indirect light is very flattering.