Replies

1. 
   calvin_ | Jul 21, 2001 01:50pm | #1

   *
   Proper flashing peter. Sealant won't last.

1. 
   Mike_Smith | Jul 21, 2001 01:57pm | #2

   *flashing under the siding...OR... standoff brackets....or instead of a band.. support teh back just like you do the front.... on posts..

1. 
   Peter_Koski | Jul 21, 2001 03:02pm | #3

   *If the siding is T1-11 what is the process?

1. 
   Mike_Smith | Jul 21, 2001 05:09pm | #4

   *two choices..cut the T-1-11 and slip an L-flash up and behind..or treat the T-1-11 as if it were sheathing and side over it.. flashing as you go...

1. 
   davidmason | Jul 23, 2001 01:37am | #5

   *I agree w/ Mike on this one. I usually go right over the T1-11. Dave

2. 
   Pro-Dek | Jul 23, 2001 03:45pm | #6

   *Peter- By "back band" I'm assuming you mean the ledger that bolts to the house that holds the joist hangers and joist. My question would be how long has it been fastened this way? If it was not flashed properly to begin with your siding behind the ledger is probably rotten from trapped moisture. It is very difficult to flash after the ledger is already on.It is hard enough to flash when it is off.The siding nails have to be driven through with a punch or cut off from the underside with a sawsall before you flash.If your deck framing is not incised pressure treated wood I would replace the framing and do it right.Bob

3. 
   Pro-Dek | Jul 24, 2001 03:26am | #7

   *Peter- this ledger was over siding -

4. 
   Pro-Dek | Jul 24, 2001 03:28am | #8

   *I cut out the corner with a sawsall

5. 
   Pro-Dek | Jul 24, 2001 03:31am | #9

   *I cut 1 1/2" below the third row of siding so I can use the siding as a guide( you will have to snap a line for t-111)Leave an inch or two so you have room to install your new treated ledger.

6. 
   Pro-Dek | Jul 24, 2001 03:33am | #10

   *the finished cut out is ready for flashing

7. 
   calvin_ | Jul 24, 2001 05:23am | #11

   *PD, post some pics on how you're going to flash. Not much in print on the proper technique. Thanks.

8. 
   Pro-Dek | Jul 24, 2001 05:43am | #12

   *Calvin- all I do after the siding is cut is slide in some 1 1/2"x 1 1/2" L flashing.That deverts the water over the ledger, which is installed next.I'll post another picture tomorrow. Bob

9. 
   calvin_ | Jul 24, 2001 12:27pm | #13

   *Good deal Bob, think it would be easier for him to understand with a pic. Do you float the decking over that flashing, fastening to blocking or the next closest joist?

10. 
    Pro-Dek | Jul 25, 2001 06:45am | #14

    *This is the flashing. The ledger is cut back 2 5/8" for the first joist and fascia. The over cuts are caulked.The decking floats over the flashing. Hope this helps, Bob

11. 
    eamgjw_ | Jul 25, 2001 04:44pm | #15

    *If you choose to cut into the siding to mount the ledger you definitely need flashing. However, another technique I have seen in deck books is to leave the siding, mount the ledger to the wall with bolts, and put 4-5 washers (3/4" gap) between the ledger and the siding. Use a bit of silicone sealant between the washers. Sounds good, why not? If you have hardie board siding this is a lot easier than cutting that hole.

12. 
    Pro-Dek | Jul 26, 2001 03:02am | #16

    *Eam?-wanna pronounce that?- Deck books and building codes very quite a bit. You can mount your ledger anyway you want.I'm just posting how it has to be done here in King County, Washington.I am still waiting for a reply to my question to the building department reguarding Hardiboard siding. Bob

13. 
    Ralph_Wicklund | Jul 26, 2001 03:28am | #17

    *Bob, do you also flash over or extend the house paper over the cut edge of the siding that is exposed under the new ledger?

14. 
    Pro-Dek | Jul 27, 2001 09:06am | #18

    *Ralph- all we do there is nail a 1x2 or 1x4 clear cedar strip and double caulk top and bottom. You'll have to show me how you post print to the photo someday. Bob

15. 
    Pro-Dek | Jul 28, 2001 06:11pm | #19

    *Hey Peter! You still out there? does any of this help? Did you just go to the store and buy some bandaids (caulk) to fix your seal problem? Bob

16. 
    Jerrald_Hayes | Jul 28, 2001 06:57pm | #20

    *PD that's a nice little presentation you made here. I've got a couple of questions for youthat are a little bit different that the ones you might expect that most people would ask you regarding your techniques. My question(s) is how or why did you photograph this particular flashing technique sequence the way you did. It looks like you're producing content for something like an magazine article, book, or company training manual. I've been working on something like that myself too for a while now but I always seem to get sidetracked or distracted at times and forget to shoot certain steps in a particular process. Also what kind of camera are you shooting with and at what kind of exposure resolution etc.? Those shots look great and I like your presentation too. Nice job.

17. 
    Chris_S | Jul 28, 2001 10:25pm | #21

    *In the picture attached (dscn2557.jpg) I notice that the metal flashing is horizontal, and ends flush with the vertical surface of the ledger underneath. Isn't any water that hits the flashing going to simply go over the edge of the flashing, then right back underneath the flashing and onto the ledger, through osmosis/surface tension, or whatever? I thought you had to extend the flashing beyond the edge of the wood, and also angle it down so that water drains and drips off it?

18. 
    Geoff_ | Jul 28, 2001 11:38pm | #22

    *Hey Bob, et al, thought I'd throw in my 2 cents worth, Here in Ma. we're required to lag or thru bolt the ledger to the house. But my real cocern was the flashing over the ledger, I always use flashing with a 2 1/2" wide (or wider) leg on top of the ledger, this allows water to travel away from the ledger AND the lower edge of the siding (see above question from Ralph) and keeps water away from the butt joint of the joists before it starts it travels down the sides of the joist, combined with a slight pitch away from the house (to the joist), this helps ensure no water will infiltrate behind the ledger or siding. I also do not put any screws through the decking that might pierce the flashing and I usually cant the first row of decking (at the house) to start the water flowing away from the house before it even gets to the flashing. Geoff

19. 
    Pro-Dek | Jul 30, 2001 06:31am | #23

    *Jerald Hayes- Peter asked and I answered. I'm not publishing anything and not keeping any secres, just my daily work here. The camera is a Nikon Coolpix 990Thanks for the interest, Bob

20. 
    Pro-Dek | Jul 30, 2001 06:42am | #24

    *Chris & Geoff- Keen Eyes boys!the 3/8"x4" lags with washers haven't been put on yet in this picture, but we install two top and bottom every 16".The flashing is in fact the wrong kind because 3- lumber stores in our area were out of the proper kind.We sealed this flashing to the ledger with silicone assuring a bond between the two before nailing on the ledger.You guys are pretty sharp to pick up on that! Here is some 1" L flash like you are talking about.Bob

2. 
   Peter_Koski | Jul 30, 2001 06:42am | #25

   *
   If your back band is against a house that has siding and your band is to be on top of that siding, what is the proper method of flashing. Can you seal it with silicone or do you need to get flashing under siding?