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deck support

keedman | Posted in General Discussion on August 9, 2006 11:35am

I’m stuck! I’m trying to design/build a deck that’s 12X14. the 12′ side ledger will be attached to the foundation. My buddy wants the deck to be low (it will cover an existing concrete slab) because of 6′ patio door that will be on the 14′ side. My problem is how to support the 14′ span without raising the deck height 8 or 10″ with the addition of a 4X8 or 10″ beam in the middle. If I have to raise it and build a step I will, but I thought some of you folks might have a better idea. Thanks for any ideas you can give me….joe

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  1. CAGIV | Aug 09, 2006 11:54pm | #1

    If I'm understanding you correctly this is what I would/have done.

    Put your mid span piers & footings in and bring them up to the level the bottom of the beam needs to be at less the height of a post base.  You can install the beam running mid span on top of the piers/post bases and hang your joists directly off of the beam.

    So instead of spanning 14' from ledger to rim with a support in the middle you're spanning 7' from the rim to the beam, the beam in the middle, then another 7' span to the outside double rim.

    I like to flash over the beam in the middle.

    Does that make sense?  I could probably draw a picture better then I'm explaining it.

    Team Logo

    1. keedman | Aug 10, 2006 04:21pm | #4

      So, if I use 2X8's, I would have a 4X8 beam (two 2x8's) running parrallel to the ledger 7' out. the beam would be resting directly on the piers. my joists would be fixed directly on the beam. 7' joists running out from each side of the beam, one side to the ledger and the other to the rim joist. Right?  

      1. CAGIV | Aug 10, 2006 09:10pm | #8

        Essentially yes,

        But I would up the middle beam to a 6x8 for the added strenght (which is probably over kill) and also because it would sit inside the post bases I would use to hold it all off of the concrete piers.

        In case you missed Piffins question again ;) how big is the slab?

        Is this a project for yourself or a client?  I would be inclined to remove the slab entirely to gain a little extra clearence between the deck framing and the ground.   You're going to have to cut out parts of it anyway to dig your footings.   Around here we can get a slab torn out pretty easily and for not a lot of money depedning on size of course.

        It's not something I would want to do by hand but if you have access for equipment to the rear of the house I'd look into it.

  2. Piffin | Aug 10, 2006 02:33am | #2

    missing about half the needed information...

    What size is the slab?

    What is your climate?

    Does the slab slope away from the house?

    is the 12' side ledgered to one part of the house and the 114' side ledgered to another wing of the house with the sliding door in it?

    I'm assuming the house already exiosts?

     

     

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    1. keedman | Aug 10, 2006 04:26pm | #5

      The ledger would be on the concrete foundation wall. No ties to the 6' patio door side of the house. the slab is cracked and but appears to be relatively level.

      1. User avater
        DDay | Aug 10, 2006 04:52pm | #6

        Level isn't really too good, you would like it to slope away from the house to get the water away from the foundation.  Where is this house?

        What Cag is suggesting is flush framing, instead of a beam under, you'll have the carrying beam at the same level as the joists and you use joist hangers to support the joists.  It's more time this way and a little more money in hangers, etc. but it would deal with the height you want.

        If you can, post a pic or two of the area, that always helps and generates the most helpful suggestions people can give.

      2. Piffin | Aug 10, 2006 05:06pm | #7

        How big is the slab????? 

         

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  3. matasky | Aug 10, 2006 03:04am | #3

    i remember you asking about what size piers you'd need for this deck a little while back...and i remember wondering if there was enough room for you to support the deck with a beam above the slab while still staying below the door level...

    CAGEIV has a good idea which saves you the 8/10" inches you'd lose from having the beam underneath...what i'm wondering is are the rim joists still going to be above the slab or are they out past the slab...and if you do hang the joists off a beam at mid-span, it sounds like the piers under that beam will be on the slab..?...is that your situation?

    i remember u saying the slab is already cracked so you don't wanna rely on it for any support...if thats the case it sounds like u might have to break up the slab in spots to dig your holes for the piers...

    exactly how far below the door is the slab anyways?

  4. Framer | Aug 11, 2006 12:33am | #9

    Why can't you run the ledger the 14' way and run the joists the 12' way with no center beam?

    At the end of the 12'joists you make your girder the box which would run the 14' way by doubling or tripling up sitting on three footing and keeping it flush at the top and use joist hangers.

    Joe Carola
    1. keedman | Aug 11, 2006 04:38am | #10

      The 14' way has a 6' patio door that opens to it.   joe

      1. reinvent | Aug 11, 2006 04:51am | #11

        Throw some pics or drawings at us. They are worth a thousand words you know.

      2. Framer | Aug 11, 2006 05:40am | #12

        "The 14' way has a 6' patio door that opens to it."Why would that stop you from running the ledger that way and the floor joists the 12'way?Joe Carola

      3. Framer | Aug 11, 2006 05:48am | #13

        Is it something like this?Joe Carola

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