i’ll be helping my daughter update the decking on her 12ft x 20ft deck that is about 40yrs old. the beams and 20ft dimension are parallel to the house, and the joists are perpendicular to the house, the current deck surface is 2×6 (nominal) wood (some is ‘outdoor’ wood, others are pressure treated (with the slits)). the wood is splitting and splintering, and soft in places. the 4×4 posts, the 4×8 beams and the 2×10 joists seem to be in good condition. we’ll assess the quality of the joists after the decking is removed. when we remove the decking, do you recommend that we apply a ‘peel and stick flashing tape’ along the top of the old joists (any brand recommendations)? we were going to use cedar 2×6 kerfed-backed decking for the new surface. 20ft boards are difficult to come by, and are 20% more expensive (linear foot cost) than boards 12ft and shorter, so we were going to use the shorter boards and stagger the end to end joints by 2-3 joist spaces. what are the pros and cons for using trim head stainless steel screws through the top of the decking into the joists vs the hidden fasteners? if we use the screws, do we need to drill a pilot hole in the cedar? if a hidden fastener is used, we’d like the type where the screw could be accessed vertically through the gap between the boards (in case a board needed replacing in the future) – any idea of brands for this and do you recommend this option? we were going to apply a clear wood finish to the decking – do we need to finish the underside of the boards (not visible), and should we apply the finish before or after we screw the decking to the joists? we were considering a composite decking (like trex), but the joists are 16in on center, and to avoid the bounciness of the decking, we didn’t want to install another 14 or so joists or move the current joists to 12in on center (time, effort, and risk of ruining them or the beam). the thicker, upper end trex product costs 50% more than the cedar boards, so we crossed that option off the list. we are in rainy washington (the state, not d.c). any advice or suggestions for us? much appreciated.
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Just my thoughts. I’m in eastern PA. I built a 16 x22 cedar deck 12 years ago. I pictured framed the deck with a border also a piece of decking down the middle of the deck to avoid the seams throughout. I really liked the look and the supposed longevity of cedar. I maintained it well, cleaned and stained about every 3 to 4 years. 3 or 4 years ago I started to have to replace a few boards a year as they stared rotting on the sides and generally around knots. This year I’m up to 11 boards. With the lumber shortages it very hard to find. No one local has anything in stock and if they can order them, it’s about $50.00 per 5/4x6x12’ board. Needless to say, I’m probably going to bite the bullet and replace it with one of the composite products. Hope you have better luck with yours.
Bob...
before you invest in the decking, check the condition of the faming and how everything is connected and structured - 40 year old framing technique and fasteners may not be what you want to hold up the family party after it's done, additionally the framing may be damaged as 40 years is a long time for outdoor wood (although you may have Doug fir since you're in the Pacific Northwest)
you may want to add some joist hangers and be sure it's tied to the house "properly"
good luck
You make a great case for a demo and total rebuild. 4 X 4's are not adequate and your framing needs to be replaced. Rebuild it all with new wood and 6 x 6 posts. Install good decking with Camo system stainless screws and a good rail that will keep everyone safe.
Don't forget the Grace membrane on top of all the framing members. And my personal
perference is Azex decking, it handles 16" oc and I have decks I built over 8 years ago that
look brand new. No fading or discoloration.
bing, thank you. do you have experience comparing azek at 16" oc joists and trex transcend at 16" oc joists?
thank you to bob, firedude and florida for your comments. much appreciated.