Hi
We just finished a nice 3/4 inch pre-finished oak T&G floor and the HO ran/skidded a fridge wheeler with fridge attached over the floor! Nice thing to see monday AM, sort of gut kicked kind of feeling.
Anyway the finish is not broken, but some chatter marks and some nice embossed pressure grooves developed.
Is there any hope in
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of fixing the marks?
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I heard of a tip where water is applied to the dent and a rag placed on top of that. Then a hot iron is placed on it. Supposedly it drives steam into the dent and raises it.
good method for the dents...
not so good for the finish....
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"Some days it's just not worth chewing through the restraints"
Been there, done that, don't work.
Second Pebble's suggestion. Try it first on a piece of scrap to see what it will do to the finish.
What Pebble said. Be glad it was the HO and not one of your guys!
Don't mean to threadjack, but ...
Becuz I'm about to install such a floor in our kitchen, how would you recommend appliances be moved across new prefinished oak flooring? I'm supposing that rolling the fridge on its own tiny wheels is a bad idea?
Get a sheet or two of 1/4" masonite. Cut as needed to make paths for the appliances. I've got a few sheets I've used on a variety of floors with 100% success. Ovens, fridge, washer, dryer, the works. Lasts job after job.
The steam method works best on soft woods but it will work a little. When moving a heavy item laydown some 1/4" hardboard. A 20 dollar 4x8 sheet saves that spendy floor.
A scrap piece from a sheet of linoleum would make for good protection.
You can get a cheap remnant piece at any flooring store...
smooth side down....
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"Some days it's just not worth chewing through the restraints"
I put in some countertops recently while the appliances were being delivered. The delivery guys had some nylon straps they slipped under the fridge and somehow slung the straps over their shoulders so two guys could carry a big fridge with out having to bend over or strain too much.It seemed like a great way to manuever around close quarters without banging into anything or damaging the floor. you would eventually need to roll it into it's final recess in the cabinets but I didn't see that part happen.Karl
I second what Geofhazzel said--Masonite. (Seems like I remember even just using scrap Formica, but I wouldn't want to bet a nice floor on it!) Even an opened refrigerator box will work in a pinch.
Edited 2/4/2009 8:03 am ET by Danno
Air sled, you can move just about anything easily and flawlesssly.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
They kill Prophets, for Profits.
Thanks all, will try the steam on a scrap.
For the record there was plenty of cardboard around!!!!
I have used an air sled and they are slick!
I said to the HO wife for another $1,000. we could even it out by distressing the whole floor, she laughed and muttered something about strapping the fridge to her husband.
We are so lucky we didn't do it
We do the steam iron trick here in the shop on wood doors and it works very good if the door is unfinished and the grain is not torn.
However, on a prefinished product, I don't think you can get enough steam to penetrate the poly--or whatever--finish to make any difference.
Sorry, but that's what I believe.
The wet rag and iron method suggested by other posters works on bare wood by swelling the crushed wood fibers back to normal. Actually, just a drop of water in the dent will work as well, just not as fast, as steam.
Your problem is that the wood is finished, so the water/steam can't get into the underlying wood.
I think you would have to remove the finish from the dented areas in order for the steam treatment to work.