I figure “destalling” must be the opposite of “installing”, right?
Anyway, we’re replacing the tile backsplash in the kitchen. Too narrow an area (about 18 inches) to make total replacement of the drywall pay off — either way it’ll be all mud. And the existing tile is pretty well adhered. (My wife did a great job putting it up 30 years ago.)
Anyone got any tricks to get the tile (over mastic) off with minimal drywall damage? Or at least get it off reasonably easily, leaving the drywall halfway sound?
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Dan, usually old splash's have just popped off with a thin flat bar. The damage is then skim coated. Have you tried that yet?
The paper usually comes off with the mastic, leaving the raw board.
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Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
Edited 1/1/2008 5:23 pm ET by calvin
Been using a stiff putty knife/scraper and a hammer so far. The tile comes off grudgingly. Wonderbar would likely be faster but do more damage.
I'm gonna try "lightly" smashing it and then going at it with a Multimaster scraper, just to see if that works.
If your view never changes you're following the wrong leader
I have used shims that I ripped off the edge of a Red Oak 1x.
They are hard enough to be reused. Woods favorite carpenter
Dan,
I usually just get the tile off the best I can with a small pry bar (though Im going to start using m MM)
Mastic hasnt given me that much trouble before.Then go over the surface with 20 min smooth set, sand , and go on from there. I really like that smooth set stuff.
There's no real way to get the tile off without damaging the drywall.
get yur MM out with the scraper blade and attack it a low angle....
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
This is 4" tile. I figure I'll have to break up the tile first for the MM blade to be able to cut deep enough.
If your view never changes you're following the wrong leader
don't cut the tile... go under them from the edge and lift them off.....
use the scraper blade... not a cutting blade...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
Yeah, but it's 4" tile and the scraper blade only gets under about an inch. That's not enough to do any good.
If your view never changes you're following the wrong leader
View ImageThe hyde pry bar is thin enough to get under and has enough bevel to usually loosen (pop) the bond. This is an indespensible tool, get a couple.A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
we must have different scrapers....
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
The flex scraper is 2.25" from hub to tip. You can effectively get about half that length under the tile. You'd need a scraper about 5" long to remove 4" tile.
If your view never changes you're following the wrong leader
okay....
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
Dan,
don't worry about the damage, just get the old stuff off, then you can decide how to patch, either skim-coat w/setting type compound, patch areas as needed or cut it all out and replace w/new backer, i.e. new drywall, hardie backer, denshield, durock, whatever your choice. Cut the old leaving about a 1 1/2" - 2" strip at the top and bottom to allow "blending" the new to old.
Happy New Year!
Geoff
I did on a couple of months ago.
I had several scraper and pries.
But, IIRC most of it I got off with a 5 in 1 and a hammer to tap the handle.
.
A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
the fastest and easiest way is to just take off the tile with the drywall. just cut through the existing drywall right up close to the tile with a razor knife then rip at it.
reinstall new drywall,cement board, hardibacker, whatever you like. no need for taping and re-tile overlapping the cut edge a bit
If the b/s is between upper and lower cabinets I would just pull the s/r and tile together then cut in new s/r then tile no taping should be needed.
I agree,if its between upper & lower cabinets,cut carefully and rip it all out in big chunks, not woth trying to save what turns out to be about 1/2 of your wallboard & then having to skim coat. Drywall is cheap