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DH windows: Where do I mount the lock?

rasher | Posted in General Discussion on December 1, 2006 08:46am

This may be a dumb question, but…
I’m restoring my 120 year old DH windows that have a muntin coming down into the meeting rail right in the center of the sash. That being the case, it makes installing a sash lock centered on the window sash impossible.
From a historic standpoint, where does that sash lock get installed? One side or the other, I guess? Uh, which side?
Thanks for any advice…

Reply

Replies

  1. cynwyd | Dec 01, 2006 09:15pm | #1

    Why not use two for balance even though historically they probably used one just off the centerline. On wider windows I've seen two used which has the advantage of really snuging up the meeting rail which is great for leakage and vibration.

    1. rasher | Dec 02, 2006 07:53pm | #4

      With 24 windows to do and the sash locks that wifey wants being $15.00 each, installing $720 worth of sash locks (2 at each window) is just not going to be feasible for us at this time.I guess just offsetting is acceptable?Maybe offset to the right if you lean republican, left if you lean democratic?

      1. User avater
        jarhead | Dec 02, 2006 08:06pm | #5

        Hey Rasher. I don't know what you call them or where exactly where to get them but my windows also had these screws with a funny head on them that required a special key to unscrew them, each window had two, one on either side. In my opinion there were better than locks, thieves can't open the windows and aesthetically they look nice being they are flush with the window frame (inset). You might look into these and see if you could install them instead of the locks. I'll google and see what pops up.

                                                  Semper Fi

                                               

        1. PatchogPhil | Dec 04, 2006 06:54pm | #20

          Downside is if there is a fire and the window is the only way out.  Finding that special key could be fatal.  Unless you use a large Master Key a.k.a. a thrown chair through yonder window breaks.

            

          Quantum materiae materietur marmota monax si marmota monax materiam possit materiari?

          1. User avater
            CapnMac | Dec 04, 2006 07:21pm | #22

            if there is a fire and the window is the only way out.  Finding that special key could be fatal. 

            Well, then, you choose a window, bolt or wedge the top sash shut, then set a wooden bar on either side of the frame to wedge the bottom sash in place.  Put a bit of flat-link chain between the two bars, and they'll "yank" right out in an emergency.

            That gets a person to choosing a window for egress, which can be a tad contrary to schemes for keeping goblins out (really, really, bad to put a nice sharp holly bush under one's egress window, f'rinstance).Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)

      2. woodguy99 | Dec 02, 2006 08:35pm | #6

        Offsetting is traditionally acceptable.  If the windows were wide, over 32" or so, I would spring for the double locks for air-tightness though.

        Offset to the right if you're right-handed, left if you're lefty.

        1. Piffin | Dec 02, 2006 09:22pm | #7

          I agree with all that but the last. I work the lock with my left hand and raise with my right. I am right handled, but that's just me. I don't know how anyone else does it and never heard a special preference 

           

          Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

          1. User avater
            jarhead | Dec 02, 2006 09:29pm | #8

            Hey Piffin, do you know what those screws are called that I was previously talking about? They were a pain to work if you had to open and close on a daily basis but sure made me sleep better at night that they were there.

                                                Semper Fi

          2. Piffin | Dec 03, 2006 04:28am | #14

            sorry, don't 

             

            Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

          3. woodguy99 | Dec 02, 2006 09:29pm | #9

            Yeah, that was just a subtle joke, playing off his suggestion of left wing vs right wing.  Forgot the smiley face.

             

            :-)

      3. cynwyd | Dec 02, 2006 11:44pm | #10

        Maybe offset to the right if you lean republican, left if you lean democratic?

        As most points of view on political orientation  will depend on where you're standing. If you're on the inside what is left becomes right to those on the outside.

        If I had a pair of windows I'd mount one left and one right. Fair and    balanced you know.

        Edited 12/3/2006 1:56 am ET by cynwyd

      4. cynwyd | Dec 04, 2006 07:04pm | #21

        http://www.vandykes.com/product/70056427/

        if you haven't looked here you may find what you want for less

  2. User avater
    jarhead | Dec 01, 2006 09:18pm | #2

    All mine had two, one on either side. I have since preplaced all the windows with dual pane vinyl.

                                               Semper Fi

  3. User avater
    McDesign | Dec 01, 2006 10:45pm | #3

    Windows on the front part of my old house are 1/1; lock is centered.

    Back half (newer, 1915) is 2/2; locks are offset to the right.

    Forrest

  4. andybuildz | Dec 03, 2006 03:57am | #11

    My dbl hungs had no locks. Maybe someone took them off and never replaced them. I donno but.....to me those locks are totally worthless.
    I just drill a hole through one sash and 3/4 of the way into the other and slip 10d nail that I cut to fit in. I paint the head to match the window paint color.

     

    I have dreamt of an open world, borderless and wide... where the people move from place to place, and nobody's taking sides.. http://www.yusufislam.com

    http://WWW.CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM                                   

     
    1. User avater
      zak | Dec 03, 2006 04:01am | #12

      A sash lock should draw the sashes tight against each other both vertically and horizontally.  In wider double hungs, a sash lock or two definitely helps seal up the window from drafts.  IMHO, of course.zak

      "When we build, let us think that we build forever.  Let it not be for present delight nor for present use alone." --John Ruskin

      "so it goes"

       

      1. andybuildz | Dec 03, 2006 04:06am | #13

        thats a good point. So in all reality then...its not supposed to really lock out intruders like most people think. Its to lock out mother nature...lol. 

        I have dreamt of an open world, borderless and wide... where the people move from place to place, and nobody's taking sides.. http://www.yusufislam.com

        http://WWW.CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM                                   

         

  5. User avater
    jarhead | Dec 03, 2006 08:48pm | #15

    I can't believe I actually found something like I was speaking about! Better security and keeps the sashes tighter together for those cold days.

                                        Semper Fi

     

     

    Q:  I've got sliding sash windows that rely, for security, on just a flimsy catch on the centre bars. What's the best way of making them more secure?

    A:  One of the simplest and least expensive security devices you can fit is called a sash window screw lock or dual screw lock. This is basically a steel bolt that passes through a hole in the inner sash and into a hole in the outer sash, preventing the closed sashes from being forced open. You fit them in pairs, one at each side of the centre bars (known as the meeting rails, because that's what they do when the window is closed).

    View Image View Image View Image
    View Image

    View Image

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    • close the window and drill a 10mm (1/2in) diameter hole through the inner meeting rail and on into the outer one to a depth of 19mm (3/4in). Wrap a piece of masking tape round the drill bit, 29mm (just over 1in) from the tip, as a guide to help you drill to exactly the right depth. Drill a second hole at the other end of the meeting rail
    • open the window and fit the metal keep plate over the hole in the outer rail. You may need to recess it into the wood if the sashes are a close fit. On some models of sash window screw lock, you push a small metal sleeve into the hole instead of fitting a keep plate over it
    • reverse the sash positions and fit the threaded brass sleeve in the hole in the inner rail. Some sleeves need screwing in with a broad-bladed screwdriver; others are tapped in with a hammer
    • close the window fully and insert a bolt, plain end first, into each sleeve in the inner rail. Then use the key provided to screw each bolt in until it enters the hole in the outer rail and its square head is flush with the sleeve in the inner sash. If the bolt won't screw in fully, remove it and shorten the plain end slightly by cutting through it with a hacksaw
    • withdraw the bolts using the key to allow the window to be opened when necessary. Keep the key nearby so the windows can be opened quickly in an emergency such as a fire
    View Image View Image View Image
    1. User avater
      jarhead | Dec 03, 2006 08:54pm | #16

      Here is another article. Sorry, on a roll.

       

       

      Wooden Sliding Sash

      You cannot rely on existing central sash fasteners. Sash stops are strong and convenient to use and do not need to be removed from window when opening fully. They can be set into the top frame allowing the window to be left open about 5" for ventilation but still secure. For optimum security, fit in pairs. An alternative form of lock is the dual screw. These in effect bolt the two sashes together. An added bonus is that, in so doing, they also reduce draughts. The beading which holds the glass in place is frequently only pinned. The window can be made more secure, either by gluing in addition to pinning or screwing the beading, if wide enough, in place. A modern style is the 'tilt to clean' sliding sash, not only sliding up and down but also tilting inwards for cleaning by undoing two clips on top of each moving sash. These should be secured by fitting both sash stops and dual screws.

      Edited 12/3/2006 1:19 pm ET by Jarhead

      1. User avater
        jarhead | Dec 03, 2006 09:17pm | #17

        I quit after this one. Not to beat the horse. This must be a European fastener. One sight I found was in the UK and they were selling them in lots of six screws and a key for about 8 pounds. That's about $14.50 for three windows. Sounds like a better deal than conventional sash locks. IMO. If you think you might would want some of these let me know, I work with someone that has family there and could get them or more info on the subject, just e-mail me.

         All right! I'm outa here.

                                                         Semper Fi

        Edited 12/3/2006 1:22 pm ET by Jarhead

        Edited 12/3/2006 1:22 pm ET by Jarhead

        1. User avater
          zak | Dec 03, 2006 09:53pm | #18

          I've bought traditional cast brass (sometimes brass plated steel) sash locks off of ebay and at salvage yards for a couple bucks a set or less.  Fine if you don't want them super shiny anyway.zak

          "When we build, let us think that we build forever.  Let it not be for present delight nor for present use alone." --John Ruskin

          "so it goes"

           

        2. TommH | Dec 04, 2006 05:15pm | #19

          I am looking at a package of six which I bought at Ace many years ago (15?). Trileen Mfg., Box 1121, Lexingtonn, Ky., US patent 4,093,285;D256,553. Trademark name Fayle-Safe.

          Edited 12/4/2006 9:26 am ET by TommH

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