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I’m installing a maple floor in a vacation home that, over the years, I’ve converted the interior to a semi-rustic style, with rough-sawn Port-Orford cedar walls, hand-peeled log trim and touches of stone masonry.
I’m now replacing carpet in the living room and also in the kitchen and pantry with #2 and better maple flooring.
The clients and I are wanting the new floor to end up looking used and abused.
I’m hoping somebody out there might have some suggestions about an efficient and effective way to rough up the new floor before I stain it (probably with a shade of black walnut).
Thanks
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Frank,
I Don't try to stain Maple. Even with sanding sealers, it will come out blotchy looking. You can shade oil polyurethane with universal tint to add color, but then you would need to add two more coats of clear oil poly to protect those colored coats. Maple floors are always done natural. We figured that one out a long time ago. There is a thread on the business section where I posted pictures on how to heavy distress a floor. It is the thread with the title," Master craftman's inability to delegate". That will help. Let your creative ability rip. We also slammed chains to the floor with different link sizes each about 18" long. You better have 3 strong guys in their early twenties there to help and pay them well. They won't help you again with another project like this one. It is REALLY hard work! GW
*Save your body. Rent a Jumping Jack, wrap a few chains around the plate and have at it.
*.50 cal. machine gun(Ha! I beat Luka with his autohammer!)-Peter
*Children and pets.......No wait, that's how you distress the owners.:o)
*Put chains on 2 bobcats and play bumper car for 1/2 hour on the stuff, then install, will distress the walls pretty good too if done inside. If not yet installed, don't buy wood, use old pallets.Have heard the old bar/brothels in Seattle and Portland had to replace floors yearly 'cause all the loggers would wear their cauks to town.
*Frank, you could let me bowl a couple of games on it...
*Only in America, would they want to beat the sh*t outta a brand new floor. Never could under stand distressed furniture either. Maybe find that German and trade him for his wormy cherry.
*Greg Warren,Thanks for your advice. I ended up using an old section of lugged tire chains and it worked great (though with a lot of sweat).Contrary to your opinion, I did use the stain, but, because of your input, gave it less soak-time,,,just enough to accent the "wounds."It's all turned out very nice. Thanks again.
*Ha....ha...ha...ha...ho...hoh...ho.hoooo!I smile...near the stream,ajya made my whole dang day calvin.
*Glad to be of service. Here's something you may or may not enjoy.Late sixties. Joined a band of crazies on a march to the Univ. Presidents office to present a list of "requests". We get up in the ivory tower, and what with no appt. and all, they picked a few representatives to meet with the big guy. We're ushered into his office (nice by the way), and sit down. A little scruffy looking but we know how to act in someone else's space. The pres. walks in, plops down and immediately puts his feet up on the glass coffee table. Jeez, if I'da done that at home, my mother woulda slapped the sh*t outta me. Lost a good deal of respect for the man that day.
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I'm installing a maple floor in a vacation home that, over the years, I've converted the interior to a semi-rustic style, with rough-sawn Port-Orford cedar walls, hand-peeled log trim and touches of stone masonry.
I'm now replacing carpet in the living room and also in the kitchen and pantry with #2 and better maple flooring.
The clients and I are wanting the new floor to end up looking used and abused.
I'm hoping somebody out there might have some suggestions about an efficient and effective way to rough up the new floor before I stain it (probably with a shade of black walnut).
Thanks