Do drywall edges have to meet on a joist
Hey guys,
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My wife and I are getting ready to begin the drywall phase of our remodel. (Yes, this is the same remodel that we’ve been working on forever.)
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The house I’m remodeling is about 1600 sq. ft. and we’ve got to do every wall and ceiling. The framing is exposed and we’re ready to begin. I’ve got 120 pieces of ½â€ x 16’ drywall. I’m working with 8’ ceilings spaced 16†oc. The rock has been stored (flat) in my garage for well over a year. The garage is unconditioned space, but I’ve kept it as dry as I could. I hope I haven’t ruined it. I’m absolutely broke and cannot afford to buy anything else anytime soon. I happen to have a drywall lift, but very little experience working with sheetrock.
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I’d like to make this drywall go as far as possible and eliminate as many seams as I can. The house is about 40 years old and there isn’t a single joist (2×6) in sight that isn’t bowed or twisted to some degree. Can I install whole sheets (perpendicular) and place 3-4 nailing cleats between the joists instead of cutting each piece to meet the center of a joist edge?
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Thanks for any suggestions,
Mike
New knowledge is priceless.
Used knowledge is even more valuable.
Replies
You can put up a full sheet and put some backer ( piece of plywood 4"x 52") and screw it in. Won't work well if you are nailing. Make the backer more than 48" so you can catch a screw in the edge of the next sheet. Make sure you set your 48" "butts" off by at least two bays (32") otherwise it will be hard to finish.
Floating between joists (with backing) is prefered by some here, as it makes the butts easier to finish.
Mike
Small wheel turn by the fire and rod, big wheel turn by the grace of god.
nailing cleats and dry wall shims...
do butt joints where they lay...
plane down the prouds and shim the cups...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
I worked in a old house so bad I used a hatchet on the high spots. The low spots were even more of hassle.
You're in luck. That's actually the best way!
But recess those butt joints 1/8" or so from the plane of the walls/ceilings, and they will act like the tapered edges --you'll fill them flush when you tape them, instead of humping them up.
There are several commercial products designed specifically for this. Visit a local drywall distributor, not a lumberyard, and see what they've got. Then you can decide whether to purchase, or build from scrap.
A 1x6 or a rip of plywood with a strip of 1/8" ply at each edge is one way to go. Hang the first board, the attach this strip using glue and screws, hanging it out half its width to catch the second board too.
Or you can attach cleats to the two joists as you suggest. Hold them up about 7/8" from the bottom of the joists, and add a 4' 1x4 centered on where the drywall will meet. This will give you your 1/8" recess, too.
But the first, floating technique uses less material, and is what the pros do.
AitchKay
I know they make 16' drywall but have never seen it, for the ceiling at least on average rooms you should have very few joints. Be careful on lifting it, most lifts are made for 12' max if I remember right there are extension kits to go 16' available. If you can not get one, have some T posts ready to prop up the ends of the sheet. As it is a standard lift does not go to the end of the sheet
Adjoining the sheets between the joist is the preferred way. 1/8 masonite sheets or old paneling ripped to 3/4 inch strips pin nailed to 6-8" wide plywood or wafer board will do it.
If money is tight look for some damaged sheets at Lowes or HD ask for a discount. I got a sheet of 5/8 drywall at Lowes yesterday with slight edge damage for a dollar.
Wallyo
Sorry guys, I mis-spoke. I have 12' sheets -- not 16' sheets.
It's been Monday all morning.New knowledge is priceless.
Used knowledge is even more valuable.
Have you thought about "strapping" the ceilings with 1x3 to level them out first? After you get the ceiling plane straight, you can attach 1/2" thick plywood strips between the straps where your butt seams will land. No complicated addition of 1/8" strips, just flat pieces that are already 1/8" thinner than your ceiling plane.
Tu stultus es
Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA
Also a CRX fanatic!
Look, just send me to my drawer. This whole talking-to-you thing is like double punishment.
Would that complicate fixtures and trim? I have quite a few recessed lights and my A/C registers are in the ceiling. How many "straps" would I need? (i.e. 16"oc?)New knowledge is priceless.
Used knowledge is even more valuable.
16" O.C. is the rule for 1/2" GWB. If the strapping runs into a light can, cut it at the can, and pick up on the other side. It never hurts to throw a couple of scraps up there to box around registers/cans. And strapping is dirt cheap.AitchKay
I've already roughed in all of my recessed light fixtures. Will the extra thickness of the strapping create any problems for the trim?New knowledge is priceless.
Used knowledge is even more valuable.
It could. But maybe not. Pull out a trim unit and fool around with it. Sometimes the spring-install rings are very forgiving.AitchKay
It depends on the trim kit you got with the cans, but probably not.I personally have never seen these "floating" joints, so can't tell you either way about them. I like the idea of furring, though.
Alot of cans have 3 screws between the can and frame and the cans can be dropped down to match a thicker ceiling.
Everything would just need to be adjusted 3/4". That should be pretty easy since everything is already opened up!
Tu stultus esRebuilding my home in Cypress, CAAlso a CRX fanatic!
Look, just send me to my drawer. This whole talking-to-you thing is like double punishment.
Visit this thread on strapping. Probably a good idea in your case.
115685
AitchKay
MWG
Rip up 6"-8" by 4'+ strips of 1/2"-3/4" whatever (OSB, plywood, ect), staple 1/8'"X 1" strips to the edges, then use as a bridge between the edges of the drywall.
DONE
WSJ
You do know that stale drywall won't 'snap' quite the way that fresh will?
I do think that strapping/furring makes sense.
Jeff
Snaps like a bad carrot.
Go to http://www.ezbacker.com/rock_splicer.html for the gizmo you are asking about. Costs a bit, but if you are a rank amateur, it's just the ticket. Does all the things the pros here been telling you about. Gotta use screws w/ it, though.
I used it in my shop & makes mudding the joints infinitely easier.
Don
The Glass Masterworks
"If it scratches, I etch it!"
what ruffmike said... it's all we do... hangs faster far less waste... and a better finished product...
you have to screw the floaters... you can nail the rest if you must... any scrap of anything you can rip to a min of 50" will work... 3" wide is fine if you need to get as many as you can out of a board... 7/16 osb is about as cheap as i'll go for my splines... i prefer 5/8 plywood.... but use what you have... if you have to use 2 scraps to get the 50-52" thats fine... if you can leave 1/8" between sheets... good if you can but cool if you don't.... with 16ft board... figure out your runs in advance... for each room... a cut here might make a perfect drop for the next room... think it out... and you can get alot more coverage out of the board you have...
good luck
p
I sure wish I could figure out how to use the "Reply to all" feature.
I really appreciate all of the helpful responses. I'm going to take a look at the trim kits for my light fixtures and then decide whether to use the strapping or simply splice the butt joints.
Thanks again. You guys are great as always.
New knowledge is priceless.
Used knowledge is even more valuable.
Not so fast! Whether you strap the ceiling or not, ALWAYS splice your butts between joists so that you can recess them!AitchKay
Exactly - the splices just run the other direction... except the have these handy joists to hang them from now!
Tu stultus esRebuilding my home in Cypress, CAAlso a CRX fanatic!
Look, just send me to my drawer. This whole talking-to-you thing is like double punishment.
MW,The secret on the recessed lights is to be found in the can housings, not the trims. Like was previously posted, the housing fastens to the "platform" with 3 screws. Loosen these and the can portion slides down to accommodate a thicker ceiling finish, such as your possible addition of 3/4" strapping.Bill
Rip a 5" x 48" long strip of 7/16" OSB and use it as the backerboard in between the studs/joists..read all about it at http://www.butttaper.com
Make sure you read the NAHB Test Report.