Hey to me my truck and my tools and my good employees are my tools.
Im thinking of getting a dodge deisel
any advice. any good forums
amything to avoid
Hey to me my truck and my tools and my good employees are my tools.
Im thinking of getting a dodge deisel
any advice. any good forums
amything to avoid
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Replies
I hear IMERC's got a Ford deisel he wants to sell. :o)
Try Allpar.com, its a dodge website that has no factory connection so you get reasonable advice. Its great for advice on problems with any chrysler product.
I've got one. Everyone warned me about the transmission. It's been fine. I've had a continuing problem with an axel sensor for the last two years. It's a slight annoyance now and I wish it would go away, but I don't want to send it back to the dealer for three days either.
I'd test drive one from every dealer before I chose one.
blue
Just because you can, doesn't mean you should!
Warning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. There are some in here who think I'm a hackmeister...they might be right! Of course, they might be wrong too!
that problem is common...
the after market replacemnt is a one time forever deal and takes about a half an hout and ya don't need to jack up the truck...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
Imerc, I'm on my third one from the dealer. Is there a better product than they are selling?
blueJust because you can, doesn't mean you should!
Warning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. There are some in here who think I'm a hackmeister...they might be right! Of course, they might be wrong too!
Blue, what year, model do you have? we are talking rear axle abs speed sensor mounted atop rear diff, right? do you know what to specific failure of it is? I've replaced a few of those in my previous life and never had a return from one.
It's a 99 ram, 2500, 4wd diesel
blueJust because you can, doesn't mean you should!
Warning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. There are some in here who think I'm a hackmeister...they might be right! Of course, they might be wrong too!
That definitely should not be happening. If you have your receipts, (or call the dealer, they can look in their records) look to see what the specific failure was. If there isn't a good drive/electrical tech there, they are probably throwing sensors at it without diagnosing the mitigating problem (like repairing water damaged drywall repeatedly without fixing the roof leak). The problem might be as simple as rear diff debris or a wiring connection problem. Please let me know what the exact failure was. It is hard to diag from 100 miles away, but I'm curious enough to try.
Kevin
When the sensor first started malfunctioning, the trans would bounce out of overdrive for half second and then back to OD. This would happen all the time at between 50 and 55 mph.
At one point, it fixed itself for about 6 months.
It went bad again and I took it in to get it fixed. They changed the sensor and did some other stuff.
Within a few months it started cycling again. My brakes were sounding the alarms and I took it in to get it fixed. They said my brakes were real bad (which I knew) and that the rear seals were leaking. They had leaked oil onto the sensors and ruined them. They fixed it all, re sealed the whatevers and fixed a couple more seal leaks in the front.
About a week later, the sensor started acting up. Not quite as bad. It occasionally just halfway jumps out of OD. It seemed to do it a lot more when it was cold. Now, I only occasionally hear it start to jump out of OD.
blueJust because you can, doesn't mean you should!
Warning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. There are some in here who think I'm a hackmeister...they might be right! Of course, they might be wrong too!
oooooooooo. you actually have a overdrive hunting symptom. This may not be caused by a sensor. while there are multiple sensors that can cause it, it can be caused by brake switch failure or mis adjustment(most common), trans seals, line pressure, shaft finish, apps(accelerator pedal position sensor), computer software, blah blah blah. The dodge truck line was plagued with this intermittent condition on all versions of the transmission from v6 Dakota to diesel trucks. two identical vehicles can have the same symptom with different causes and the cause was frequently found by loading the parts shotgun. You need to take a good dealer trans tech for a ride and duplicate the problem for him while he has test equipment hooked up. or throw the cheap parts at it, service the trans fluid, and make some trans adjustments and see what happens. sorry I can't provide the 100 mile diag for that one.
Kevin
Are all the dodge diesel automatics a overdrive unit. Im used to the chevy which has a drive indicator and then drive with a circle around it. But the past two automatic diesels I looked at only had 1,2,D ( or L,S,D I dont remeber if it was letters or numbers). Both of these were early. ONe a 93 the other a 95.
then after looking atthem I thought, boy they could pick up some mpg if they had an overdrive in them.
my memory is a little fuzzy on the early 90's trucks, I THINK they were all overdrives. All dodge overdrives have a disable switch, later trucks on the shifter stalk end and earlier (88-93?) on the inst panel (a big square button). btw, all dodge overdrives should be disabled when towing or working it (the overdrive clutch packs are not't duty rated for higher loads). some people have good luck leaving it in od (me incl), but why take the chance. P.S. trucks with the 3.55 axle ratio do get better mpg than truck with the 4.10 (ratios vary by year but they are in those ranges)I forgot to mention that before.
Kevin
Actually AWS, you are correct! When the problem first surfaced, I didn't have time to deal with it. It was consistent....always slipping back and forth at 50 -55 mph. One of the things I did was change my tranny fluid and that actually fixed it! It stayed fixed till I hauled a slightly heavy load up north (three hour drive). After that, the problem reoccurred and the tranny fluid thing didn't fix it. That's when I finally found time to get it into the dealer for the first time.
blueJust because you can, doesn't mean you should!
Warning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. There are some in here who think I'm a hackmeister...they might be right! Of course, they might be wrong too!
well, as a hail mary, change your trans fluid and filter again. this time loosen the valve body screws a little to get more fluid out. while the pan is off,increase the line pressure a little. If that doesn't make a dent in it, the fluid that was "warmed up" during the long loaded haul probably caused a little valve body valve scoring or seal surface etching :-( btw, use the mopar atf, there is a slight difference btwn that and other stuff. time to feed the kids. type ya later.
Kevin
that is common to ... about evry 9 months or so on the average..
I'll see if I can get a hold of Tommy and ask him which one he put in... The aftermarket one seems to be bullit proof...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
too llate, sold
so you dodge deisel fans, this is what I was looking at and why
93 2500 extendede cab long bed automatic 212,000 miles price $5900 really clean, grandma only drove t to church on sundays or something like that, yeah sure mr dealer.
reasons that one, and would like advice and arguments since Im still looking
price. nice price, in my budget
my brother in law loves them, says the first generation is the best. all mecchnainal injection, nothing breaks. Tougher axels, dana 60's? and the leaf spring front end will take more abuse then the struts of newer
he also says that the struts wear out faster , and they wonder ( sway) on the hiway
easier to switch to biodiesl,which out here I can get for under 2 a gallon
dont have all the odd ball electronics running everything
quad cabs, etc whistle at hiway speeds due to the seals in the "back" doors, this is especailly true of those that have been driven hard or on gravel roads
my wife and I however like the newer generation dodges
look newer, looking good is an important image thing for doing look-sees etc
she does not like the rattle and noise of driving the 1st generation
2nd generation was easier for her to drive , or so it seemed
the one that sold had 212k on it, I was told by two shops that I talked to that the automatic was the weak point, only good for 150k, the dealer had no service records on it, or none to share, so thats why I dragged my feet, and then gone. on the lot for one day.
so any further advice or suggestions out there
again, yes I know this is a building forum, but Im a builder and my truck is a tool !!!
Edited 4/2/2005 11:11 am ET by Isamemon
I have 2 dodge diesels. Both are isb versions, and both are at approx. 160k. My 2500 is mostly stock and the only problem has been with the fuel guage (common and easy fix). My 3500 is tweaked way up and I have only had to replace the clutch ( the factory clutch is only rated for about650 ft lbs). Both have been great trucks and the current generation although changed in many ways looks to be just as reliable.
whats an "isb" version ???
quick cummins primer: all years dodge use cummins B series diesel I-6 360 cubic inches. early d series (prior to 1994) body style were all mechanical injection. 1994-1998 used different mechanical (and likely best mechanical). 1998.5-2002 br/be body style all used isb injection system which was actually mechanical with electronic pressure control (before I get jumped, this is all over-simplified , this is a primer). 2003 plus dr body platform uses electrical control at the injectors providing pressure and finite timingcontrol. isb brought the diesel up to gas engine drivability while allowing for greater total power. 2003+ common rail system is just an improved isb, same pressure pump-more electronics applied differently.
Edited 4/2/2005 6:15 pm ET by AWSCHMIDT
thanks
learn something everyday
I have an '03 Dodge with the NV5600 and love it. I had a '97 with the 360 V8 before; it's common knowledge that engine was a pooch.What sort of upgrades do you have on your 3500? I have about 40k on my truck and have averaged 17-18 mpg (city) for the life of the thing. I'm looking into getting some upgrades for it, like exhaust, an aftermarket air cleaner, computer chip, etc. How do these affect drivability and do you get much of a gas mileage boost?Thanks for the information on the Dodge diesels.
so since many of you are diesel owners and obviously computer people too, what are the best web sites for info, tech info, parts etc, for these diesels so I can learn more
thanks
"turbo diesel registry" is THE dodge finatic website. I'm not a member myself. I spent my previous life in the trenches of the dimmer chisler corp dealing with elect & drivability. my brain is now filled with semi-usless knowledge. you can email me if-in u gots questions. I may be able to help.
hey, cut the gas 360 some slack! it was a good engine,just choked by emmisions and regulations. the came alive and gained mpg with the right tweaking. From the sounds of it your mpg is right in line. since isb inception, srw trucks have averaged 22-24 mpg and drw coming in 16-18mpg. you may see a single point or two if you really work it but not stellar mpg increase. Your truck is a common rail, your turbo already is a high swirl housing (faster spooling, better low end and response). Your exhaust is fine for moderate power upgrades (muffler drop probably wouldn't hurt).
Your air filter has some uneeded restriction. You don't need a "chip". you need an overlay module. basically a pc board that changes the inputs and outputs between the control computer and engine. there is alot of flash and chrome that really isn't needed out there so don't fall for the sales pitches. with a manual trans u r good for low to mid power improvements...CAUTION....power is addictive and your clutch is probably good to about 650 ftlbs only. A sufficient clutch could cost you 1k for parts only. very slippery slope.
Kevin
oh yea, drivability changes are depandant on the specific module placed on the truck. And my dually is an isb 6speed with ported/ polished turbl and exh manifold (I had it off and I don't charge myself much). exh is 4" front to back, air filter is a huge round thing off a medium duty truck(again my custom work). injectors are diesel dynamics stage 3 (biggest thing you'll use an the street). module is a tst comp(older, been replaced with an adjustable unit at tst). clutch is a south bend clutch upgrade (ceramic lined, increased diameter). I use a second transfer pump to supply more volume the inj pump (fuel cools and lubricates it, plus more in=more out:>)). I have propaned it but I'm making a new wot control circuit (it needs a soft start, the sudden jerk when applied at high power was going to brake somptin). I've also fabricated my own track bar and sway bar links to fix insufficient factory parts. (btw, I still drive dirt roads at 65 and hwy at 85-darn big feet anyway). that covers the major/ basic stuff I've done. hope that answers your question.
Kevin
Ouch. My truck IS an SRW. 2500 4-door, 8' bed. I should be getting 22-24? Who do you recommend for the overlay and the air cleaner? I was looking at the Airaid cleaner in Summit. I think I'd like to go for a ride in your 3500.
sorry to say, what ugot is what ugot. I've played with a few trucks that were out of the average range, they just don't change much unless you have a failure a gross assembly error. most of my experience is with the isb 98.5-02 trucks (I walked away from my "job" last year) so given you truck is an aircraft carrier:>) drw mileage may be correct. let me take care of thus infant and I'll continue in a min or 2
Kevin
back after baby-break. for your fuel module, personal experience recommends either tst products or edge. you can search web for lots of info. tst is usually a better choice for a work truck. air filter is your choice. you just need a little improvement (heck you may want to do that only if filter minder pulls a vacume after module install). ps go to turbo diesel register and check their forums for lots of info. most of those guys won't take junk products and they aren't modest about voicing problems.
Kevin
sorry to bug you again
so your primer on fuel systems. does tht mean that the pre 98.5 did not have a computer,
and the 98.5 is that the break in 12 valve and 24 valve.
2-98s in todays paper, one was a 12 valve one a 24 valve. 12 valve had 89k but they wanted 19.5. The 24 valve had 156k and they were asking 15.6 ( two different dealers)
both 4wd, auto, quad cabs
of course therer were more then that, but not in my $$ range, actually Im looking for one in the 12k range, so I guess Im looking 94-97ish
I was also told that the fuel shutoff solenoid on 94-2000 can be a problem and burn out fast
thanks for all the help
Ill quit buggin you now
i have the 5.9 cummins in an RV 35ft spartan chassis allison 4sp trans and I'm amazed that loaded and run'n 85mph i can get 10-11mpg.. it the older verison 5.9 mechanical 12 valve... but i watch the gauges and except in the mountains up hill long grades is the only time i see temps creep up... I wouldn't shy away from an older one... guys tell me in marine trim they are 300hp... i think mine is 180 or 190hp
pony
i started out with nothing... and have most of it left
No bugging about it. Just got home from the shop, so I'll answer quick (even with time change, 5:30 is still early). up to 98.5, all engines were 12 valve. isb began 24 valve. Base engine is the same, just evolving. 12 valves do not have computer control for the engine; However, the do have a comp-u-tater for charging sys, a/c, trans control. 12 valve engine use fuel shut, 24 valve does not. solenoid is energized when the key is on, pulls the valve lever, and allows fuel to flow. yea like an expensive kitchen faucet. the solenoid usually suffers from corrosion and the bushing that pivot on the lever seizes, leaving the truck unable to either start or sometimes it wont turn off. Cummins updated the solenoid, once replaced some preventive lubrication (should be done anyway) keeps it purring.note: solenoid ain't cheap but if you can probably diagnose and replace it yourself. the solenoid can burn out (not going to dive into the technical aspects of it) but popular theory is that the root cause of this is also a seizing pivot. If you have a question, ask away
Kevin
Buy AAA.
Then get yourself some ear plugs. I was at the pump one day when a dodge pulled up next to my ford diesel. we both left the trucks running while we filled up. I forgot mine was running, when I went to leave I cranked the starter
Mavericik, current production dodge uses a common rail electronic injection system and is only "noisey" when higher power is requested. the older dodges operated at the higher power fuel timing at idle ; hence the rattle bang. Fords simply were an IH light duty diesel not a derated heavy duty diesel. They were not capable of rattle bang without engine failure. If he is looking at a DR (newest body style) dodge, he will have the quiet version.
Kevin
I may have a truck in you 12k price range where are you located.