What jam depth (wall thickness) do all of you prefer? In metal stud commercial construction, I have been using 4 13/16 jambs on 4 7/8 walls without too much difficulty. Many of the suppliers do not stock 4 15/16 jams.
Some people like jams minus 1/16″ nominal wall condition, some dead on, and some plus 16″.
Thoughts?
Replies
I like plus or flush. What my grandfather taught me was to put an ever so slight bevel on the jambs so that they are just ever so slightly proud, but they taper back so you never get that funny gap in the trim. My experience has been that it's very hard to close a gap when the jamb is too short. But lets face it, 1/16 isn't killing anyone
But lets face it, 1/16 isn't killing anyone
That's what I was trying to tell people today. But they thought it was a life and death matter. In fact, they called the supplier to double check me. Then they totally transmogrified what he said. I'll never order a door again for these people.
And I was the one hanging the doors too!
For the record, I do like the jams proud or flush myself. But you get what you can get. And you get the doors hung
Edited 2/8/2008 11:11 pm ET by McMark
We have done a fair amount of restoration type jobs, fortunately the old plaster and lath is much thicker than new drywall, I can make my jambs whatever I want. I don't know why people sweat this stuff sometimes. 1/16 is big if your making a piano, it's huge if your making a space shuttle, it's nothing for most carpentry. That said my partner used to level off our floors to the 16th, that started a few fights.
I guess my other question is, what are the factory jam widths? It seems the 4 13/16 is common, but 4 15/16 is a custom job. Is that right?
What Nick25 said. Bob's next test date: 12/10/07
Industry standard is 1/16" proud to allow for the inevitable variations.
Solar & Super-Insulated Healthy Homes
Ideally flush; plus a 1/16" second; short a 1/16" third.
But a decent carp should be able to deal with all three of the above.
it is hell bashing out drywall to get 45s to sit perfectly. Proud is much easier. a little dap on the back against the wall will never noticed. on regular stud construction i will rip jambs at 4 5/8.
My suppliers stock 4 7/8” jambs for steel stud construction, which works great for welded frames. KD frames can be a little tricky at times. With wood framed construction I would rather be wider than thinner - your casing joints end up proud on the face where it counts rather than on the back holding the joint open.