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How to Install Exterior Window TrimHighlights
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Right. Typically 2" over door size in width and 1" in height.
BruceT
1" for height if installing doors after flooring.
I leave 2" off of subfloor.
FREE SPONGE BOB,SANCHO PANTS!
Yeah add 2'' to the width and one to the high..so a 2/8x6/8 wants a RO of 34"x81". Allows for shimmage, you can (in theory) skimp it down to 1.5" over wide, but the wall gotta be sweet and plumb.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Shooting rubber bands at the Moon
I'd normally go 82" rather than 81. Reason is built up floor height. You can undercut your jambs, or set em on top. If you're setting them on top of blocks that will be your floor height, say, 3/4", you need that extra on top.DCG Your Neighbor's Contractor LLC
"A wrongdoer is often a man who has left something undone, not always one who has done something."--Marcus Aurelius
On a 6'-8" door it would be best to go 83" in ht. on the rough! This gives room for the Head jamb & some room under the door. This is why we cut our trimmers for standard interior doors @ 81 1/2 ".
I always add 2 1/2" to the width and 2 1/2" to the height. You can get by with less but I like the extra wiggle room, and having both numbers the same makes it easy to remember.
Also keeps from cutting the bottoms off after carpet!
By adding 2 1/2" to the hieght, I meant the height of the bottom of the header above the subfloor. The door jambs sit on the subfloor, the bottom of the door is 1 1/8" above the subfloor so you end up with about 3/8" clearance above hardwood or tile. I rarely work on houses with carpet, but it would clear most carpets just fine too.
So I guess you never trimmed a door huh? You just lost the casing nailer w/ 2 and a quater trim at the head.
The head is tight cuz you have only a 3/4 jamb. and lose a 1/2 with the lap on the jamb for a reveal of 3/16 or a 1/4 and now the RO is framed higher?
You can't frame a RO thinking you know what the FF will be. Cut the door is not a problem, there is an inch to play with on the bottom, why have the trim topped out with no backing?
I miss your point.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Shooting rubber bands at the Moon
Kinda sound mad about the whole thing. Wouldn't the most logical route be to know your FF and work accordingly? I only said 82 'cause I usually see 3/4's over the subfloor but I maybe didn't explain that well.DCG Your Neighbor's Contractor LLC
"A wrongdoer is often a man who has left something undone, not always one who has done something."--Marcus Aurelius
82½" X 34" RO sounds right to me. Plenty of room for whatever the flooring.
I cut my door jambs 81 3/4" and set them on 3/8" blocks for carpet.
Or: I cut my door jambs 81 3/8" and set them on blocks of the hardwood to be installed.
If the builder can't decide on what type of flooring, jambs 81 3/4" set on subfloor, if needed, I'll cut the doors for $15 and another $15 if I need to re-block.May neighbors respect You, and troubles neglect You.
Gord
Easy there big guy....
I've trimmed a door or two. Got the EZ guide largely for cutting down doors. But I try to avoid it.
My rough opening for a 2-8 door would be 34 1/2" x 82 1/2". 80" door, plus 1 1/4 for the length the legs extend below the door and the gap between door and head jamb, and 3/4" for the head jamb...is 82". That's a 1/2" space above the head jamb. If my trim can't make it to the framing on that, then it's a pretty wimpy casing!
For non-load-bearing walls my headers are two two-bys on the flat. That gives me great nailing for the 3 1/2" to 4 1/2" casings I usually use.
I just re-read your post and realized you thought I meant add 2 1/2" above the TOP of the head casing. That would be a stupid thing to do.
I thought that was what you meant. And for the life of me, couldn't see how you have anything to nail to up top.
My house is so funky that I have a place where they used about 2'' of shims, not blocking, on a latch side jamb. I ain't kidding, the guy wasn't a carpenter, but musta read a book.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Shooting rubber bands at the Moon
Adding 2" to the width is fine - usually. Sometimes, however (when hanging doors with 2-by rabbeted jambs, for example) a mere 2" is not enough. Like "woodguy99" just said, going with 2-1/2" doesnt hurt.
It's always easier to pad out a little bit than it is to make the RO a 1/4" wider!
Edited 11/11/2006 11:32 pm ET by Ragnar17