Replies

1. 
   BossHog | Jul 24, 2007 10:44pm | #1

   35" by 82" Is what I wuold figure.

   But it's worth double checking with the people you're buying your doors from.

   Hard work spotlights the character of people; some turn up their sleeves, some turn up their noses, and some don't turn up at all
2. 
   user-201496 | Jul 24, 2007 10:48pm | #2

   34" X 82 1/2". The height could be more depending on the finished floor.

3. 
   Sphere | Jul 25, 2007 12:34am | #3

   I normally add 2 to the width,and 1 to the high.

   So, 34x81, and when the bottom plate is cut out, you wind up with 82 1/2.

    

4. 
   MSA1 | Jul 25, 2007 12:41am | #4

   I normally run my headers at 82 and rough the width 2 to 2.5 inches wider than the door.

5. 
   Jer | Jul 25, 2007 02:40am | #5

   Duane said it. Always 2" wide and 1" high. If the framing is way out, give yourself an extra half inch or so on the width.

   So your door RO would be 34" by 81"

1. 
   JDRHI | Jul 25, 2007 03:02am | #6

   If the framing is way out, give yourself an extra half inch....

   Ummm....are you suggesting that he may be planned on framing it "way out"?

   ; )

   J. D. ReynoldsHome Improvements

    

    

1. 
   Jer | Jul 25, 2007 06:00am | #9

   "Ummm....are you suggesting that he may be planned on framing it "way out"?No. 80% of my work is reno-restoration, so I see it mostly as existing framing. Although I've seen new framing that would send the bubble all the way to one side of the vial.Is your bubble in the middle
   when you lay it on the level?

1. 
   JDRHI | Jul 25, 2007 06:19am | #10

   I was funnin' witcha.

   I assumed that the OP was planned on doing the framing....thus asking how large his ROs should be.

   Sounded like you were tellin' him to make 'em larger than typical if he were planned on framing outta plumb.

   J. D. ReynoldsHome Improvements

    

    

2. 
   DanH | Jul 25, 2007 11:39pm | #13

   I've not done that many doors, but I've yet to encounter an RO that's square and flat. I'm under the impression that ROs are REQUIRED to be "way out" -- must be something in the code.
   So convenient a thing it is to be a reasonable Creature, since it enables one to find or make a Reason for everything one has a mind to do. --Benjamin Franklin

1. 
   JDRHI | Jul 26, 2007 12:23am | #15

   LOL.

   You need to trim behind me then.

   I'm a stickler when it comes to plumb, square openings.

   Ever since "the new guy" (me) got stuck having to square an opening intitially intended to hang a door, but turned into a drywall passage some 22 years ago, behind a framer that couldn't care less.

   But I agree....very few guys pay much attention to how true the RO is for doors. 

   J. D. ReynoldsHome Improvements

    

    

1. 
   NickNukeEm | Jul 26, 2007 12:46am | #16

   Usually if the guy framing is the same guy hanging the doors, the openings are dead on.  Or pretty darn close.  A little more effort framing can save much more time and labor later.

    "I am the master of my fate, I am the captain of my soul."  Invictus, by Henley.

2. 
   JDRHI | Jul 26, 2007 12:52am | #17

   Amen brotha.

   J. D. ReynoldsHome Improvements

    

    

3. 
   DanH | Jul 26, 2007 01:31am | #18

   Yeah, and I think not being flat is worse than out of square.
   So convenient a thing it is to be a reasonable Creature, since it enables one to find or make a Reason for everything one has a mind to do. --Benjamin Franklin

4. 
   JDRHI | Jul 26, 2007 06:30am | #19

   I think I agree with you there. PIA trying to shim jamb.

   J. D. ReynoldsHome Improvements

    

    

6. 
   Piffin | Jul 25, 2007 03:18am | #7

   34-1/2" x 82-1/2"

    

    

   Welcome to the
   Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
    where ...
   Excellence is its own reward!

1. 
   alrightythen | Jul 25, 2007 03:30am | #8

   I always learned 34 x 82 1/2.

   But as I set more doors, I have been concluding myself to add an extra 1/2" to width.    View Image                                          View Image    

1. 
   Piffin | Jul 26, 2007 12:19am | #14

   I first learnt to add 2" to door width, but we use a lot of solid jambs that are a bit thicker, so the slightest error off plumb in framing means you get out the sawsall...So we frame 2-1/2" over.For height, I am thinking the guys who only go to 82" are using thin carpet or sheet vinyl flooring. We do mostly hardwood and tile 

    

   Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

7. 
   mike_maines | Jul 25, 2007 12:42pm | #11

   Add 2 1/2" to the width and 2 1/2" to the height, so your RO would be 34 1/2" x 82 1/2".

8. 
   JeffinPA | Jul 25, 2007 07:02pm | #12

   I agree with 34-341/2"  but if you jack your header up to 83" you will be able to lift your door when setting it for any new flooring condition without having to cut the bottom of the door. 

   If you are adding tile or hardwood, you would want to hold your door up a little higher and  it gives you a little extra room to adjust the header later if something settles.

   If there is another door in the vicinity, set the door to that height and the heck with all our suggetions.   I just framed a header at 80" as the door that was 6" away from it was abnormally short and I need my new door to align with it.  I will have to cut the door down when I install it.