Hi all.
I’ve finally started replacing the wood on my built in gutter and need to install new downspouts(tube). I’m going to use 3″round galvanized downspouts to attach to these tubes. I’m ripping off all of the old tin and replacing all of the rotted wood with new, so the roofers can come in and install rubber where the tin once was. I’d like to have the whole soffit ready for them when they come, so they can just fit the rubber in place when they replace the roof. I’ve attached a pic of what I think I need. If there are any other recommendations please let me know as I’ve never done this before. This “downtube would be installed directly onto the wood I’m replacing. Hope this makes sense.
Replies
Gonna bump this over to an expert for ya. :-)
Thanks Hudson,
Thats a piece you could use or the roofing shop could make one up to install while they are there doing the membrane.
whats taking the place of the worn out Penn. slate above it ?
Walter
Thanks Hudson & Theslateman. Do you think there is a way I can bend that flashing on the downtube enough to make it work in the center of that slight V shape? I thought it would be good to do myself since I'm up at it anyway. But maybe you're right and I should have the roofers do it. Regarding the roof, I think I'm going to go for asphalt shingle. I had many roofers come out to patch it and when I asked how much to get slate installed they would look at me like I'm crazy. One roofer (who states in his brochure that he does slate roofs) said-"what are you gonna do-park a chair in your lawn and look at your roof all day!?" I did laugh, but don't think I'll be calling back any time soon either. If you know of anyone who does slate or asphalt in central jersey (Highland Park) please let me know. I only have one estimate so far. One last question: As far as a drip edge goes- do you think I should just have the membrane as a drip edge? I assume not, but is it ok to nail through the membrane just to have a drip edge. If I do a drip edge is gravelstop recommended?Thanks!
Jim
>>>>>a way I can bend that flashing on the downtube enough to make it work in the center of that slight V shape?You ought to be able to bend the flange around the tube with no problem. But if the tube itself falls in the "V", then a custom piece must be fabricated.>>>>>>do you think I should just have the membrane as a drip edge? No - there are two ways to do it. 1)install the drip edge and tape the rubber to the top of it. This method is sometimes used in residential applications - most commercial only roofers won't use it. 2)install the rubber so it overhangs the edge slightly. Install the DE over the rubber and strip it in with uncured epdm. If you don't have gravel, you probably don't need gravel stop. On second thought, the bump on the gravel stop might be advantageous to keeping water in the trough.
http://www.grantlogan.net
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JimmyJim,
Grant covered the downspout tube question for you. Best to let the roofers make it as needed How many are required ?
He also filled you in on drip edge too. Membrane alone isn't acceptable. DE should be installed over the field rubber , then stripped in with uncured just like Grant advised you.
On the upper part run the membrane a foot higher than your shingle line - Grace down to within an inch or two - starter course and shingle. You don't need any edge there.
Walter
Perfect. Thank-you everyone for your expert help. I have a total of only 3 downspouts on this house. May add 1 or 2 more. JimmyJim