I want to have power go from my gfi duplex to my fan switch. Currently I have power coming into the 3gang which then 2wires to the gfi duplex outlet. I then have another 2 wire that brings it back. The gfi power coming back then pigtails into my fan switch which then 2 wires back to the fan.
Now instead of doing the 2 2wires could I have used a 3 wire and used the non-gfi neutral into the fan switch?
Also I read somewhere on here that you should pig tail neutrals and not run them through devices – in this case I ran it through the device as I wasn’t sure if I needed the gfi neutral output from the outlet as opposed to the neutral non-gfi supplied to the outlet.
Hope that makes sense and thank you for the help,
MG
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PPS {a pre post script).
I finally think I understand what is happening here. This is a bathroom and you are talking about a vent fan. I was just thinking ceiling fan and it did not make any sense. There is no requirement for GFCI protection on vent fans, in the code. The only requirement is that they be installed per manfacture instruction. Now some instructions do require GFCI protection if it is installed over a shower/tub.
"I want to have power go from my gfi duplex to my fan switch."
I am not sure, but after reading the whole thing is that you want the fan (and/or fan switch) to be protected by the GFCI. Is that right?
If so Why? What do hope to gain?
"Now instead of doing the 2 2wires could I have used a 3 wire and used the non-gfi neutral into the fan switch?" (Actually the neutral could not be used by the fan switch it'self, unless it is an electronic timer. But the box with fan switch would have a connection for the neutral to the fan.)
No.
The GFCI measure the current that leave the load side hot connection and compares it to the load side neutral. If you don't have the load connected up to the loadside neutral then it would show an imbalance whenever the fan was on and the GFCI would trip.
Yes a bathroom vent fan that per instruction if installed over the shower should be gfi protected. Sorry that wasn't more clear.>I finally think I understand what is happening here. This is a bathroom and you are talking about a vent fan. I was just thinking ceiling fan and it did not make any sense. There is no requirement for GFCI protection on vent fans, in the code. The only requirement is that they be installed per manfacture instruction. Now some instructions do require GFCI protection if it is installed over a shower/tub.Yes I wanted the fan to be gfi protected as per the instructions.>>"I want to have power go from my gfi duplex to my fan switch."
>I am not sure, but after reading the whole thing is that you want the >fan (and/or fan switch) to be protected by the GFCI. Is that right?
>If so Why? What do hope to gain?You are correct, I meant the incoming neutral in the box being sent to the fan instead of the returning gfi neutral being sent to the fan, only the hot wire is actually switched. So the answer is no. Ok well I've done the correct thing anyway. Nice to know the reason for the future as well.Thanks for spending the time interpreting my message!MG>>"Now instead of doing the 2 2wires could I have used a 3 wire and used the non-gfi neutral into the fan switch?" (Actually the neutral could not be used by the fan switch it'self, unless it is an electronic timer. But the box with fan switch would have a connection for the neutral to the fan.)
>No.>The GFCI measure the current that leave the load side hot connection and compares it to the load side neutral. If you don't have the load connected up to the loadside neutral then it would show an imbalance whenever the fan was on and the GFCI would trip.
it sounds to me like you may now have too many connections in the box, and I thought it's now against code to have ANY connections made through devices (except GFCIs, of course)Bill
Too many connections in a 3-gang box? You mean in terms of box fill? I'd have to check the box fill chart again but I think I am ok. The only pass through I am doing is through the GFI device everything else is pigtailed.Thanks for the thoughts!
Box fill is the only issue.A) you can run any circuit that you want through a box. It does not have to be related to anything else in the box.B) There is only one limitation to feeding circuit through a receptacle. That is for multi-wire circuits the neutral has to be pigtailed.
When you say multi-wire circuit, are you saying that in the case where the receptacle could feed through two branches through push connections I could put the hot wires in through the push but I'd have to use pigtails for the neutrals?
A multi-wire circuit one that has two hots (from different legs fo the 240) and only one neutral that is common to both. The neutral only carries the difference in currents between the two hots.A multi-wire circuit can supply either 120 or 240 loads are a combination of both.For example some people run them for the two kitchen counter top circuits. Typcially now, if it is then it will be split into two 120 circuits with a GFCI on each.Before the GFCI's it was common to run teh 12/3 from receceptacle to receptale. The first, 3rd, 5th, etc receptacle would be connected to one hot leg. The others to the other hot leg. But all of them connected to the one neutral. In a circuit like that if the neutral is connection is broken you can get upto 240 volts across a 120 load. That is the reason for the requirement for pigtailing the neutral.On "straight" 120 circuit and you lose the neutral or the not the downstream receptacles just don't work. So no safety issue.
see if this fixes it..
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